New Elk M1G Install

[stargazer]

Looking for a little advice and possible a few people to pick apart an install I'm planning on doing.  Want to install a home security system, with the option of adding some home automation items later.  This is going in a relatively small home (1600 square feet, 2 story).  No pre-wiring done when the home was built, so looking to use wireless for the doors and windows.
 
I created this parts list of what I could find off the internet - so I don't have access to all of the manuals.
 
I have the following parts list.

• Elk M1 Gold Kit (includes below)
  ​M1 Gold Control Board
• M1KP2 LCD Keypad
• SWB14 Enclosure
• 1280 8Ah Battery 
• TRG1640 AC Transformer 
• 73 Echo™ Paintable Interior Speaker
• 952 In-line Telephone Surge Protector
• RJSET Telco Jack & Cord

[*]​Elk Honeywell Wireless Receiver
[*]Various Honeywell Wireless Door/Window Receivers (58XX - suggestions on which ones would be appreciated)
[*]Honeywell Keyfobs (5834-4)
[*]Honeywell Motion Detector (5800PIR-RES)
[*]Elk Ethernet Option (ELK-M1XEP)
[*]Uplink 4530EX (I don't trust my VoIP for sending an alarm)
[*]ISY994i
[*]2nd Elk Keypad for Master Bedroom (ELK-M1KP2)
[*]Wide Gap Overhead Door Contact (DC-4811)
[*]RJ-45 Data Bus Hub (ELK-M1DBH)
[*]Power Supply for Uplink Device (Elk P112K)
[*]Bunch of CAT5 cable
 
I realize there are no smoke detectors/CO2 detectors on this - planning on adding those later.  Budget issue.
 
So that being said, my main questions.

1. ​This seems about right?
2. From my calculations, running the Uplink device off of the Elk system's power system seems like it might be pushing it power wise, so I spec'd the Elk P112K as a seperate power supply to run it.  I'm not sure if that's the correct way to go.  Suggestions would be appreciated.
3. What sort of cellular phone plan do you need with the Uplink device?  Rough guess on a monthly cost
4. The Wide Gap Overhead Door Contact is for the Garage door.  Planning on hard wiring this.  Can this be wired directly to the main Elk board?  Is this even the right way to let the Elk system know if your garage door is open?
5. I originally spec'd this with the Elk wireless devices, but I saw some posts suggesting to use Honeywell or GE instead.  This seem correct?

​​Thank you everyone for the help!

 

[drvnbysound]

At first glance everything looks pretty good to me. I would consider the ELK-950 or similar surge protection device (which protects on the power input side, whereas the 952 only protects the phone line).
 
What size can are you planning to install? (I prefer a 28" enclosure)
How/where do you plan to place/mount the battery? (I use the ELK-SWS)
How will you mount the ELK-XEP? (I recommend the ELK-SWGs)
The KP2's have a provision on the back of them for a SP12F speaker to be installed. Have you considered having voice announcements at the keypad locations?
 
As much as I REALLY like the KP2's for the above feature, I also like that the original KP (and KPB) have a built in temperature sensor.
 
1) Answered above, with some added questions
2) Separate power supply is recommended here.
3) I've yet to install one personally, but I've read that many people use a pre-paid minutes plan/phone and pull the SIM. This depends on how much you're willing to monitor it; it wouldn't be much or often, but you'd obviously want to know when you'd need to add more minutes. This would likely be substantially cheaper than a standard re-occuring monthly bill, but the latter would be more hands off.
4) Yes. I have mine wired, and I've wired 6 others that way as well. I prefer to use the TANE-66-WG or similar. It is overkill for a residential application, but I've found that I really like them and get them for about the same price as any other alternative.
5) There are many more Honeywell and GE devices in the field. However, I've installed 2 systems using the Elk 2-way devices and had good experience with both of those; one of them has >30 wireless sensors. While not as proven yet, I'd have no problem using them again. YMMV.

 

[mikefamig]

When I designed my system I failed to calculate the power consumption of the system. You need to add up the current draw of each component that you add and be sure not to overload the M1 power supply. Elk created a simple spreadsheet that is very helpful and if you do the calcs up front it can save you some work later. The supply on the M1 is sufficient for a basic security system.
 
As an example - The xep comes with an ac/dc transformer to power it from an AC outlet but you might want to power it from the M1 panel so that it will be backed up by the battery which adds to the load on the M1 power supply.
 
Here's a link to the spreadsheet
http://www.elkproducts.com/Owner_support_tools.html
 
Mike.

 

[rodbarnes]

I am a newbie
I purchased a M1 Gold system plus accessories from Home Security Store
They are out of business, so no help available.
I need some install assistance and have questions

I am planning 9 hard wired zones using existing wiring

Zone 1 fire w/ten 4WT-B Smokes (with EOL module to be added) & 2 potter CR-135-w heat detectors
Zone 2 motion detector
Zone 3 motion detector garage
Zone 4 two glass breaks
Zone 5 two delay door contacts
Zone 6 one door contacts
Zone 7 two door contacts garage
Zone 8 five window contacts (need to purchase)
Zone 9 interior zone (3 door contacts)

1 outdoor siren with built in driver (need to purchase) suggestions?
1 indoor siren ELK 73
2 keypads M1KP
1 additional basic keypad (need to purchase) suggestions?
 
Not sure how to wire multiple keypads
Can the heat detectors be wired into the smoke loop?
I want to set up cell phone access to arm, disarm
Is it preferable to use internet access vs telephone access?
I can run cat 5 to panel internet to panel for phone or internet
I can get a M1XEP
How to wire motion and glass break?
Do motion and glass breaks require EOL resistors?
 
Thanks.
 
 

 

[mikefamig]

I am a newbie
I purchased a M1 Gold system plus accessories from Home Security Store
They are out of business, so no help available.
I need some install assistance and have questions

I am planning 9 hard wired zones using existing wiring

Zone 1 fire w/ten 4WT-B Smokes (with EOL module to be added) & 2 potter CR-135-w heat detectors
Zone 2 motion detector
Zone 3 motion detector garage
Zone 4 two glass breaks
Zone 5 two delay door contacts
Zone 6 one door contacts
Zone 7 two door contacts garage
Zone 8 five window contacts (need to purchase)
Zone 9 interior zone (3 door contacts)

1 outdoor siren with built in driver (need to purchase) suggestions?
1 indoor siren ELK 73
2 keypads M1KP
1 additional basic keypad (need to purchase) suggestions?
 
Not sure how to wire multiple keypads
Can the heat detectors be wired into the smoke loop?
I want to set up cell phone access to arm, disarm
Is it preferable to use internet access vs telephone access?
I can run cat 5 to panel internet to panel for phone or internet
I can get a M1XEP
How to wire motion and glass break?
Do motion and glass breaks require EOL resistors?
 
Thanks.

I think that you are asking a far to broad question to be answered in a text message.
 
My advise is to set up the M1 panel with some basic components on a work bench and get familiar with the system before starting the install. It is how I started my newbie install and it was a big help.
 
I started with the M1, a couple of wired zones, a keypad, a speaker, an xep and backup battery. I plugged it into an AC outlet and learned to use ELKRP software and the keypad a little.
 
Start small and learn as it grows, you won't be sorry.
 
Mike.

 

[mikefamig]

Here's a link to where you can download the M1 installation manual as well as manuals to all of the Elk devices:
 
http://www.elkproducts.com/m1_manuals_docs.html
 
Mike.

 

[mikefamig]

Not sure how to wire multiple keypads
 
The keypads as well as many other devices are connected to the M1 on an rs-485 data bus using cat5e or cat6 cable. Download the M1 installation manual and become familiar with the keypad hookup.

 

Can the heat detectors be wired into the smoke loop?
I do not know the answer to this one

 

I want to set up cell phone access to arm, disarm
Ekeypad is the only IOS app recommended by Elk and I like it a lot

 

Is it preferable to use internet access vs telephone access?
In my opinion yes, very much so. The graphical GUI has it hands down over the telephone.

 

I can run cat 5 to panel internet to panel for phone or internet
???

 

I can get a M1XEP
you will need an xep to communicate with the elk via the internet. Otherwise you have to use the telephone

 

How to wire motion and glass break?
The instructions are included with the device

 

Do motion and glass breaks require EOL resistors?
Again that will be in the device's instructions.

 

Thanks.

 

[RAL]

1 outdoor siren with built in driver (need to purchase) suggestions?
1 indoor siren ELK 73
 

 
 
Rather than an external siren, you'll probably be happier with an external speaker, such as the ELK 1RT.  A siren with its own driver will generate a tone than is not in sync with whatever you hear from the interior siren.  OUT2 on the M1 can be configured to drive either a speaker or a siren.
 
 

How to wire motion and glass break?

Do motion and glass breaks require EOL resistors?

 
Motion sensors and glass break sensors (assuming you mean acoustic glass break detectors) get wired up to zone inputs on the M1.  You'll need 4 wire cable (e.g. 22-4), with one pair of wires used to provide power and the other for the zone contact. 
 
EOL resistors are optional.

 

[mikefamig]

RAL
 
Is the sound on out2 synchronized with out1? Is it the identical output during an alarm if it is used with a speaker?
 
Mike.

 

[RAL]

Is the sound on out2 synchronized with out1? Is it the identical output during an alarm if it is used with a speaker?

 
 
Yes, when OUT2 is used to drive a speaker, both OUT1 and OUT2 receive the same siren tones.  Voice output only goes to OUT1, however.
 
Work2Play has a good description of why using an exterior speaker is a better choice in his post here.

 

[stargazer]

At first glance everything looks pretty good to me. I would consider the ELK-950 or similar surge protection device (which protects on the power input side, whereas the 952 only protects the phone line).
 
What size can are you planning to install? (I prefer a 28" enclosure)
How/where do you plan to place/mount the battery? (I use the ELK-SWS)
How will you mount the ELK-XEP? (I recommend the ELK-SWGs)
The KP2's have a provision on the back of them for a SP12F speaker to be installed. Have you considered having voice announcements at the keypad locations?
 
As much as I REALLY like the KP2's for the above feature, I also like that the original KP (and KPB) have a built in temperature sensor.
 
1) Answered above, with some added questions
2) Separate power supply is recommended here.
3) I've yet to install one personally, but I've read that many people use a pre-paid minutes plan/phone and pull the SIM. This depends on how much you're willing to monitor it; it wouldn't be much or often, but you'd obviously want to know when you'd need to add more minutes. This would likely be substantially cheaper than a standard re-occuring monthly bill, but the latter would be more hands off.
4) Yes. I have mine wired, and I've wired 6 others that way as well. I prefer to use the TANE-66-WG or similar. It is overkill for a residential application, but I've found that I really like them and get them for about the same price as any other alternative.
5) There are many more Honeywell and GE devices in the field. However, I've installed 2 systems using the Elk 2-way devices and had good experience with both of those; one of them has >30 wireless sensors. While not as proven yet, I'd have no problem using them again. YMMV.

 
This is exactly the sort of feedback I was looking for.  Thank you!
 
I wasn't even thinking of the enclosure, so glad you brought that up.