New Elk user

[tgraham]

Just got my Elk M1G installed, wanted to drop a note of thanks to all contributors of this forum as I've gathered lots of tips and helpful information making my initial install go smoothly.

My initial setup is

Elk M1G
48 zone wireless Caddx board
Ethernet module
Serial expander (going to convert our standalone thermostats to TR40's).

I'm integrating back into Homeseer with the M1 plugin.

As previous posters indicated, the most tedious part of this is sensor wiring....and crawling around in attic in June in Las Vegas (although it beats waiting until July)

I did take the suggestion to mount the panel in the hallway clothes closet and it's working out great. I have another 28" leviton panel in the garage; hadn't initially thought of using the closet space. I might move that panel into the closet also when the elk wiring is completed.

Todd

 

[Spanky]

Welcome aboard Todd. Keep us informed of your progress.

 

[wryork]

I'm in the process of building a new home and my builder is using his standard security guy which has told me he installs a standard security system from Honeywell Ademco. I believe this will run $500 for basic security system alarming all doors, fire alarm, sump-pump alarm, and down stairs windows.

I have been reading/posting on this forum for a month+ to get information on strucutred wiring, a/v distribution, etc. This site has been the best I have found for a newbie like myself. THANK YOU.

I talked to the security installer about using the ELK product line and he didn't want anything to do with it. When contacting ELK, they gave me their 800 number and told me to call for support. Installing such a product is most likely over my head and even if I could figure it out, I am limited on time. I hate spending the money on a basic security system when I could spend a few extra $$$ for the ELK line and get so much more flexibility...and get me involved with home automation once I move it.

Any suggestions? I live in Indianapolis but can't find an ELK installer.

Thanks,
Bill

 

[johnh123]

Call ELK and ask if there is a local installer that does ELK.

 

[wryork]

Yeah, I tried that and got a few names. When I went to their web site, it looked like my four year old son had set it up. And it appeared many of these contacts were starting a new company. It worried me just a bit.

 

[Steve]

The hardest part is just the wiring. If you have any skills at all with basic tools it is fairly easy to just replace the panel. At the very least, just make sure it is wired and I'm sure you can find someone to put the panel in. Maybe a local cocooner will volunteer to help? I would if I were up that way.

 

[toymaster458]

I have found alot of the alarm only companies have generic web sites. As long as they know how to install an alarm system with sensors, provide you with FULL access to the Elk panel and don't lock you in with a monitoring company you are good to go. You always have CT and Elk to assist with the programming.

 

[johnnynine]

...my builder is using his standard security guy which has told me he installs a standard security system from Honeywell Ademco. I believe this will run $500 for basic security system alarming all doors, fire alarm, sump-pump alarm, and down stairs windows.
...
I talked to the security installer about using the ELK product line and he didn't want anything to do with it.

I had the same problem. My installer did support HAI Omni but had never heard of Elk and therefore couldn't install it. So I'm stuck with a standard GE system.

Then there is the issue with the security contract that must be signed if you want the security wiring done while the house if being built. So now I'm locked into a contract with a security company (which is owned by the builder of course).

Thinking maybe I could sell the GE system and replace it with an Elk I called the security company and they said they might support an **UPGRADE** to the Elk if it was professionally installed since all the wiring is warrantied.

I'm not sure at this point if I could get away with installing it myself or not.

 

[wryork]

The hardest part is just the wiring. If you have any skills at all with basic tools it is fairly easy to just replace the panel. At the very least, just make sure it is wired and I'm sure you can find someone to put the panel in. Maybe a local cocooner will volunteer to help? I would if I were up that way.

Steve, the security installer has installed all of the contacts at each of the doors and windows, alarm location in the attic, keypad at the back door, one smoke detector, motion sensors, and ran everything down to my mechanical room in the basement. The door and window contacts look very clean and concealed (both are inside the frames of the windows and doors).

I thought I would let them finish out their basic system and look to upgrade to the ELK MI once I move in.

If I do that, can you give me some things to look for in their wiring (locations, type of wire, types of contacts used etc) to ensure I will be able to seamlessly swap out my system to the ELK? Since I'm still in the framing stage, I could ask them for these changes and even pay the nominal increase to ensure my migration is easy. I think with all these smart people on this board and my basic skills, I should be able to do it.

Thanks!

 

[Steve]

I'm going to assume they used standard 22 ga 2 or 4 conductor wiring which is fine. To meet code they should use 'fire wire' for smoke detector locations. It's usually red 18ga. As far as contacts, all the standard Normally Closed (or open) contacts should work fine. Where you would get in trouble is any Ademco proprietary stuff, like wireless, etc. You may want to see if they used EOLs by the contacts or if they were planning to just do it the lazy way and put them in the panel (if needed). You may want to consider running cat5 to the keypad locations instead of the 22/4 but the 22/4 should be ok for basic keypad stuff. The other thing but I'm pretty sure is not an issue since its new is there were some types of vibration sensors like the Ultrak that used an additional analyzer. You don't want anything like that in the system. Are you going to have anything besides contacts on the windows? Like glass breaks, vibration sensors, etc? In any case, most of them should be ok too. Oh, and the siren - needs to be compatible, if you use one in addition to the speakers.

 

[wryork]

Thanks again Steve for your time on this....Yes, I believe you are correct about the wiring they used. I will confirm tomorrow when I go out to the house. I also believe they are used EOLs by the contact as it looked as if something additional was wrapped under the electrical tape by the contacts. But I will confirm. I will also look for the fire wire to the smoke detectors. I was considering adding the cat5e cable to the key pad location when running other network drops. I'm only using window sensor and no glass break sensors at this time. I figured if glass breaks while I'm home I 'hope' i hear it and if I'm not home my motion sensor can pick it up. I guess I'm not that paranoid....or maybe because this is my first security system and anything is better then what I have today.

 

[Spanky]

Have them run CAT5e to all keypads to future proof the installation.-

 

[Steve]

I also believe they are used EOLs by the contact as it looked as if something additional was wrapped under the electrical tape by the contacts. But I will confirm.

If they did then you just need to find out the values. You may get lucky but you also may need to put another resistor in to 'balance' it to the value the Elk needs. If you know the resistance, great, if not you will need to tell us the color bands.

 

[elcano]

... if not you will need to tell us the color bands.

or, if the resister ar too wrapped in tape as you said, buy a cheap multimeter and measure the resistance across the wire leads.

If you are going to replace the alarm panel it would be good to have it anyway.

 

[wryork]

(elcano @ Jul 13 2006, 11:01 PM)

or, if the resister ar too wrapped in tape as you said, buy a cheap multimeter and measure the resistance across the wire leads.

If you are going to replace the alarm panel it would be good to have it anyway.

I will ask them (or do it myself) for these measurements. It would probably be good for me to start "getting my own hands dirty" if I really want to get into this stuff