NewB Elk question
- Thread starter J_P
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wuench
Senior Member
My general reasons for using the ELK are:
1.) As a security system
2.) As a relay and sensor interface (inputs and outputs) for things like motion detectors/door sensors/water sensors/garage door opener/sprinkler control.
3.) As a solid state, battery backup up, robust home automation controller. The rule engine allows you to tie lighting/HVAC/Inputs/Outputs together.
This is all augmented at a higher level with CQC. But my goal is to keep as much on the ELK as possible as it is more reliable than a PC. (especially one running Windows).
1.) As a security system
2.) As a relay and sensor interface (inputs and outputs) for things like motion detectors/door sensors/water sensors/garage door opener/sprinkler control.
3.) As a solid state, battery backup up, robust home automation controller. The rule engine allows you to tie lighting/HVAC/Inputs/Outputs together.
This is all augmented at a higher level with CQC. But my goal is to keep as much on the ELK as possible as it is more reliable than a PC. (especially one running Windows).
wuench
Senior Member
Some specific examples of what I can/plan to do with the ELK are:
1.) Close the garage door after I leave or when I goto sleep, in case I forget.
2.) Set the thermostat temp based on occupancy, rather than time. So the heat is turned up if I am home and turned down if I am away, rather than relying on specific day/time.
3.) Turn on lights based on occupancy or motion in a room. So if I enter a bathroom lights and fan turn on automatically and then turn off a specified number of minutes after I leave.
4.) Security Lighting - Simulate someone being home if away, turn on outdoor lights if motion is sensed.
On of the biggest benefits I have already gotten from having the M1G installed is discovering a problem with my sump pump. I put in a high water sensor and it went off within a few days. It turns out my float was installed in a bad spot and was getting stuck a lot. Just a matter of time until I had a flood...
1.) Close the garage door after I leave or when I goto sleep, in case I forget.
2.) Set the thermostat temp based on occupancy, rather than time. So the heat is turned up if I am home and turned down if I am away, rather than relying on specific day/time.
3.) Turn on lights based on occupancy or motion in a room. So if I enter a bathroom lights and fan turn on automatically and then turn off a specified number of minutes after I leave.
4.) Security Lighting - Simulate someone being home if away, turn on outdoor lights if motion is sensed.
On of the biggest benefits I have already gotten from having the M1G installed is discovering a problem with my sump pump. I put in a high water sensor and it went off within a few days. It turns out my float was installed in a bad spot and was getting stuck a lot. Just a matter of time until I had a flood...
AutomatedOutlet
Senior Member
Yeah, I think that's the key thing is that it enables you to integrate your security with your automation. That way parts of your security system are also acting as sensors for your automation.
Thanks guys, great information. Would the ELK be able to tie into my door/window/motion sensors already installed on my current security system, allowing me to ditch the control board and tie it all into the ELK? Does the ELK have the capability to be interfaced via GUI on a PC/wireless touch screen? I can definitely see why you would want one as a good solution to tie the security in with the home automation.
Justin
Justin
wuench
Senior Member
Most likely your sensors will interface, if not, sensors are fairly cheap if you have to replace a few. More importantly, if they are connected via 2 or 4 wire, you won't need to re-run wires.
The M1G has an optional wired Ethernet interface (M1XEP) which has a built in web server. ELK also sells an optional Windows Mobile/CE based touch screen (ELK-TS07) that runs over wired ethernet and can be power via power over ethernet.
The M1G has an optional wired Ethernet interface (M1XEP) which has a built in web server. ELK also sells an optional Windows Mobile/CE based touch screen (ELK-TS07) that runs over wired ethernet and can be power via power over ethernet.
Steve
Senior Member
Justin,
Many people do the same thing and just replace an old basic alarm panel with an Elk. All your your basic door/window contacts should work fine as should contact based motions and glass breaks. Most proprietary stuff like keypads, etc will not work. The other things to check are the smokes and making sure that there are no EOLs (end of line resistors) as the sensor (if they are in the panel you can just ditch them). If there are, then they need to either be changed to 2.2K for Elk, or put another one in to brink to 2.2k. Don't worry - most installers just leave them out or put in the panel to 'satisfy' the panel.
Many people do the same thing and just replace an old basic alarm panel with an Elk. All your your basic door/window contacts should work fine as should contact based motions and glass breaks. Most proprietary stuff like keypads, etc will not work. The other things to check are the smokes and making sure that there are no EOLs (end of line resistors) as the sensor (if they are in the panel you can just ditch them). If there are, then they need to either be changed to 2.2K for Elk, or put another one in to brink to 2.2k. Don't worry - most installers just leave them out or put in the panel to 'satisfy' the panel.
Alright,Steve said:
Looks like I'm going to have to do some research on how these security systems work what an EOL is needed for.
Steve,
You say the proprietary keypads won't work with the ELK, but wouldn't the ELK take their place, or do you need a separate keypad for the security. I would only be running one keypad for the whole house.
Justin
Steve
Senior Member
Yes, you would use an Elk keypad. Some people have keypads they already like, or just want a wireless one so I wanted to make sure you knew to use an Elk keypad.
And an EOL is an End Of Line resistor and is typically used to make the zone/circuit not suceptible to short circuits, either deliberate or accidental. Most cheap panel require them and installers put the resitor at the panel instead of at the 'End Of Line' by the contact - where they belong. It's easy to check - when you disconnect your zone wires, measure the resistance, it will either be open, shorted or some value like 1,2, or 3kohm. If its open or shorted you should be fine. If it reads 1 or 3 kohm or something other than around 2k, then you need to do something. Search for EOL using the Google search in the Search screen for more info.
And an EOL is an End Of Line resistor and is typically used to make the zone/circuit not suceptible to short circuits, either deliberate or accidental. Most cheap panel require them and installers put the resitor at the panel instead of at the 'End Of Line' by the contact - where they belong. It's easy to check - when you disconnect your zone wires, measure the resistance, it will either be open, shorted or some value like 1,2, or 3kohm. If its open or shorted you should be fine. If it reads 1 or 3 kohm or something other than around 2k, then you need to do something. Search for EOL using the Google search in the Search screen for more info.
