Problem with x10 Wall Switch

[homeseer]

I just recently installed x10 wall/light switches. They function manually ok, but wont respond to remote commands. What am I doing wrong?

 

[electron]

I assume you configured the house and unit code? Do you use transceivers? If so, try moving them to a different outlet, one close to the light switch itself. If the switches can be controlled once you find the right outlet, then you need a phase coupler. A house (in the US) has 2 110v legs, so if your light switches are on one leg, and your X10 transmitter is on the other, you would run into this problem.

 

[homeseer]

Forgive me, as I am new to the x10 scene. All I did was install wall switches in place of the existing lighting switches. I set the code in the switch and pressed the appropriate button on the remote.

I am not certain what you mean by transceivers.

What exactly is a phase coupler.

How do I solve the problem of being on two seperate legs if this is indeed the problem.

Forgive my newby ignorance. I appreciate your help in advance.

 

[BraveSirRobbin]

homeseer:

Can you post some more details as to the exact parts you installed, the exact model of the remote and model of the transceiver?

 

[ClearToLand]

Forgive me, as I am new to the x10 scene. All I did was install wall switches in place of the existing lighting switches. I set the code in the switch and pressed the appropriate button on the remote.

I am not certain what you mean by transceivers.

What exactly is a phase coupler.

How do I solve the problem of being on two seperate legs if this is indeed the problem.

Forgive my newby ignorance. I appreciate your help in advance.

homeseer, you need to do a bit of reading to get up to speed!

Here are some useful LINKS:

• > > > Advice To X-10 Newbies From An X-10 "Old Timer" < < <:
  .
• > > > X-10 Checklist (from GROUP:comp.home.automation) < < <
  .
• > > > Where Do YOU Go For Your (Daily?) X-10 "Fix"? < < <

Also, PLEASE list the Manufacturers and Model Numbers of all the X-10/HA equipment you bought and/or currently have in service.

 

[rocco]

. . . All I did was install wall switches in place of the existing lighting switches. I set the code in the switch and pressed the appropriate button on the remote.

I am guessing that you have a missing an important component between those two components.

The wall switch receives X10 messages from the powerline. The remote sends X10 messages onto the airwaves. At a minimum, I believe you need a TM751 or RR501 transceiver to receive the RF signal and retransmit it over the powerline.

The more sophisticated but more expensive approach would be to get a WGL800RF32 RF receiver, which will feed the received X10 RF into your computer through a serial port, and the computer then acts on it and put the X10 signal on the powerline through a suitable interface (there are a variety here, so I won't recommend one).

 

[electron]

Good thinking rocco, I totally agree, if he doesn't know what a transceiver is, then there is a good possibility that there isn't one installed at all (or any other RF hardware for that matter).

A list of the hardware you are using would definitely help.

 

[Treetop]

Forgive me, as I am new to the x10 scene. All I did was install wall switches in place of the existing lighting switches. I set the code in the switch and pressed the appropriate button on the remote.

I am not certain what you mean by transceivers.

What exactly is a phase coupler.

How do I solve the problem of being on two seperate legs if this is indeed the problem.

Forgive my newby ignorance. I appreciate your help in advance.

What remote?

A transceiver:
A receiver receives
A Transmitter transmits

A Transceiver does both. For this application, the transceiver takes the RF signal and converts it to a PLC signal (Power Line Carrier), which then "talks" to the device(s).

I use the TM751, but as rocco mentioned, there are other models out there too.

Phase Coupler:

In the US, Electricity is feed into the home at 220v. At the ciruit breaker box, this is split into 2 legs of 110v. This means that half of the house is wired on one leg. In order for an x10 signal to cross over to the other leg, the signal would need to travel all the way up to the transformer and back into your house (not likely to work). So the work around is to bridge (couple) the two legs together. There are several devices that will work for this. Some are wired into the breaker box, and some are simply plugged into the 220v outlet where your dryer is.

Now to add to all this, there are two main types of couplers: Passive and Repeating.

Passive couplers simply pass the x10 signal over to the other leg. Okay for small homes.
Repeaters amplify the signal. Better for larger homes.

I choose to go with the Plug in SignaLinc Coupler/Repeater, but everyone has their favorite. This one just happens to work for my needs.

There is one work around for phase couplers, if you only have a few devices on one house code... use a transceiver on each leg. I did this for a few months when I first started out, but I quickly got tired of troubleshooting... I do not recommend it, unless you hard up on cash.

Since your nick is homeseer, do you already have the HS software? What computer interface are you using? etc. etc.

And Welcome to the boards.

Treetop



Note: The info I posted about the 220v/110v may be off, as Im not an electrician. Please feel free to correct me (im sure you won't hesitate )

 

[rocco]

I use the TM751, but as rocco mentioned, there are other models out there too.

Oops. I meant the TM571 . . .

 

[ClearToLand]

I use the TM751, but as rocco mentioned, there are other models out there too.

Oops. I meant the TM571 . . .

:huh: Are you sure???

This post has been edited by Treetop on Apr 1 2005, 05:34 PM

 

[jrfuda]

Other models: http://www.automatedoutlet.com/home.php?cat=10
TM571, RR501, V572AB/E for direct to power line, and W800RF32A/AE, MR26A and a couple of others via a PC.

If I remember correctly, both the TM571 and R501 double as an appliance module, but the TM571 can only receive commands via RF and will not react to any commands sent via the power line (so it will transmit commands it receives via RF and turn its built-in appliance module on/off via commands received via RF), whereas the RR501 listens for RF commands and retransmits them on the power line, and also responds to commands issued via the power line that match its House and unit codes.

 

[rocco]

I use the TM751, but as rocco mentioned, there are other models out there too.

Oops. I meant the TM571 . . .

:huh: Are you sure???

Ok, I meant that little white plastic box that plugs into the wall and has that metal antenna sticking out about a foot. Not to be confused with the larger white plastic box that plugs into the wall with the foot long antenna that does the same thing, but a little better.

 

[ClearToLand]

I use the TM751, but as rocco mentioned, there are other models out there too.

Oops. I meant the TM571 . . .

Are you sure???

Ok, I meant that little white plastic box that plugs into the wall and has that metal antenna sticking out about a foot. Not to be confused with the larger white plastic box that plugs into the wall with the foot long antenna that does the same thing, but a little better.

rocco, you misunderstood...

I picked up on the fact that you:

• originally and correctly referred to the TM751:

  ...At a minimum, I believe you need a TM751 or RR501 transceiver to receive the RF signal and retransmit it over the powerline.

  
  
• Apologized and changed to TM571 to agree with Treetop's "transposed" reference:

  I use the TM571, but as rocco mentioned, there are other models out there too.

  Oops. I meant the TM571 . . .

• Didn't notice Treetop's OP (and your QUOTE of it "somehow") got edited back to TM751, but not your apology

and was merely KIDDING AROUND with you (thinking that YOU would have also picked up on it).

X10 TM751

Now, if the OP would return, maybe we can get back to troubleshooting. (Maybe he's using a HT IR Remote and needs an IR543?) :huh:

[NOTE: An "ALMOST IDENTICAL" post was made at RemoteCentral within minutes of this post and the poster hasn't returned there either... X10 Problems Wall switch ]

 

[rocco]

Hi, CTL, I knew you were kidding arround. I was just pretty fumble-fingered that day. I simply gave up on using those funky X10 numbers . . .

 

[AutomatedOutlet]

homeseer,

I think your problem might be easily solved. We're all looking at this from too close when the problem might be very simple.

On the basic WS467 wall switch, there's a slide switch on it that will disable it's receiving of X10 signals.... Try flipping it the other way.