Securing serial cable to M1

[gcimmino]

In this thread on where folks mounted their XEP, we discussed how to secure the serial cable to the M1 since it doesn't (yet) have screwlocks.

Spanky mentioned that there were kits available and I found one, but believe the posts are too long to fit the M1. There appears to be just a quarter of an inch between the DB-9 and the circuit board.

I've since found that AMP makes some kits with 0.25" posts. You can find them on AMP's site and on page 981 of the Mouser catalog.

Turns out Keystone has a similar product on page 1477 that's cheaper.

I've ordered some of these and will let folks know if they fit.

 

[fleetz]

I had to machine some threaded hexagonal post down so they fitted exactly. I now have a firm fitting serial connector.

I am sure I feed this back a year or so back. I hope that the serial comms is secured as standard as I felt from the whole design that it was the weakest part (indeed the only part)

It in all other respects in very robust!

Cheers,

Fleetz

 

[gcimmino]

Well, got the Keystone 0.25" parts in and installed them. Just the right size and now the serial line is secure as it should be.

fleetz, yes, I provided the same feedback about a year ago and am very happy to hear that Elk is incorporating into future product.

 

[jimspobox]

qcimmino,

Can you give me the part number you ordered and a link to the site where you ordered them, that is just what I need!

Thanks,

 

[gcimmino]

Sure, I ordered Mouser Part number 534-7229-5.

You'll need 2 of these at a whopping $0.48 each.

The site is www.mouser.com, no minimum order, but you'll pay more for shipping than you'll pay for these parts.

As referenced above, you'll see this part on page 1447 of their catalog, here's the .pdf.

When installing these, it will be easiest if you disconnect your M1 (easily done thanks to Elk's connectors), remove it from the panel and work on a table. I found it easiest to pop the plastic case open and slide out the PCB. Note the 3 tabs on the left hand side can be easily moved and the PCB will come out of the back plate.

Because you've got 1/4" to work with, I found a curved hemostat (forcep) was the tool to use. Radio Shack has a $7.29 model 64-2961 . Use one washer above and below the connector, then add the lock washer and nut. Use a nut driver to tighten it all up.

To reassemble the M1, slide the right side of the PCB under the guides first then gently push down on the left side to pop into place.