Suggestions on residential electric strikes, door contacts, and advice for door reinforcement

I'm looking into putting all new exterior doors in my house - there are 3 of them.  The existing doors are not very energy efficient, are in poor condition, etc.  They do not have any door contacts installed.  They can easily be kicked in.  I'm looking to install doors that are energy efficient, not easily kicked in, and also somewhat attractive at a reasonable price point.  We are also installing an Elk M1Gold panel.  For 2 of the doors, I'd love to add some kind of form of keyless entry.
We are going to start parking our cars in the garage, and using the door from the garage into the house as our main point of entry.  This door would be most logical to have an easy keyless system.  Not only are we not great with remembering to carry keys with us, nor do we like to fumble around to find them.  But we also would prefer not to use a dongle either.  I am also not very fond of the cheap button code systems that seem omnipresent now.  I'd like something that I could control remotely if needed, and if I desired to, receive feedback on the current state.
One option might be to install something like an HES 8000C (note: I actually have one of these laying around, so it would be nice to make use of it).  I could have several options for triggering it.  One options is that we are going to use Lutron RadioRa2 Visor controls and/or the HomeLink buttons in our vehicles to activate the garage door opener.  We could possibly have a relay activated upon opening the garage door which also activated the electric strike for a period of time, a minute or two maybe.   I'll have a burg keypad at this door also, and so I could also have a weigand sensor and we could use a dongle as a backup in case we miss the window.   However, I'd prefer to simply enter a code into the burg keypad to activate the strike again, over having to dig out a dongle.  Is that possible?  A code that would momentarily activate the strike, but would not have any effect on the status of the alarm system?
I realize I'll additionally need to probably add an extra stud or 2 to reinforce the door jamb, and that the strike would need to be fastened using long screws to make the plan effective.  This would also be an "outward" swinging door - into the garage.  Any thoughts on this, or better ideas?
The other door I have questions about is our front door.  Presently there is a wood door with sidelights.  Sidelights are attractive but they seem to make the door less secure.  I don't know how to make a door not easily kicked in if it has sidelights.  However, when we replace this door, we will likely need to keep the sidelights as a practical measure, both to keep the appearance and due to the existing opening size and finishings.  We will only occasionally use this door any more, but any company who comes will be using this door.  Including people that I would likely like to provide easy access inside, such as parents, in-laws and so on.  So it would be nice to also have a form of electronic entry on this door, particularly one that I could easily activate remotely.  I may also put something like a Mobotix door station at this door which I will use to be alerted remotely when someone pushes the doorbell, and be able to see them and communicate with them.  And I believe these also have a relay which I could use to activate a strike.  For this door, though particularly with the sidelights, there is less room in the frame, and so I'm looking for suggestions here on the best way to go.
The last door is simply from my kitchen to our back porch, which is a much more informal door.  I still want to replace this door for energy efficiency and I don't want it able to be easily kicked in, but this door will likely have glass panels, and will simply be a less secure door, one that exterior cameras will have to serve as more of a deterrent on entry.
Please also can someone suggest the best model of door contact that I should look at?  Obviously something small and flushmounted that will have minimal impact on the door's functionality, energy efficiency, security or appearance.  Again, because of the sidelights, should I be looking at using the top of the door, and going straight up through the header?  Or under the door and wire down through the threshold?  I'd be worries about water intrusion in this case.
Depends on the budget, but the easiest to get in a door without modifying the frame and framing is to get electrified handsets or mortise locks. The amount of work to get contacts and hardware into the door will not really affect the energy efficiency're going to have the same inherent issue no matter if you installed or did nothing.
M1G, you can piggyback a weigand reader off the keypad or install a KPAS. With the KP, you'll need to plan on installing a relay. There are weigand stickers and HID even has apps and you'd need a compatible phone to turn that into your credential.
You're better off not interfacing the intercom directly with the locking hardware, but drive the unit through an input on the M1G and then program an "event". In the case of a KAM, you would wire directly NC to the KAM. Downside is whether or not the 3rd party device's output changes state on power loss or failure (must be considered).
For doors with sidelites, especially thermal units, there's usually a steel skin separated by insulation. Easy enough to get a bit and go through the core. The wire path dictates the style of contact and location.