SWITCHLINC RELAY FOR FLUORESCENT LIGHT?
- Thread starter flyerman
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jrfuda
Active Member
1. Did they send you the right switch? I beleive they make a non-X10 version too, maybe they sent you one of those by mistake.
2. Do you have a neutral wire - you need 3 wires for this switch to work.
3. Does the LED/Set button blink when you send an X10 command? if not, it is not seeing any commands.
4. Did you press and hold the set button for 4 seconds, followed by the LED blinking and your light coming on, followed by you sending the desired house and unit code from your transmitter, followed by the light turning off?
5. When you say remote, what are you using as a remote?
2. Do you have a neutral wire - you need 3 wires for this switch to work.
3. Does the LED/Set button blink when you send an X10 command? if not, it is not seeing any commands.
4. Did you press and hold the set button for 4 seconds, followed by the LED blinking and your light coming on, followed by you sending the desired house and unit code from your transmitter, followed by the light turning off?
5. When you say remote, what are you using as a remote?
Yes, I pressed the set button in for 4 seconds then the lights come on. I proceed to send a C4 code from a Palm pad HR12A. I changed the code to "C" on the transmitter. It is supposed to capture the command then turn solid green. It does not? I have four wires on the switch with only the yellow traveler not connected.
How can I tell if it is a not X10 version? It does say X10 in the manual.
How can I tell if it is a not X10 version? It does say X10 in the manual.
jrfuda
Active Member
Maybe you have a bad swith. Do you have anything else that you can use to send the X10 commands?
Without trying to setup the switch, do you see ANY blinking on the LEDs when you send an X10 command?
Also, did you double check your wiring to make sure it's hooked-up correctly?
There's also a chance that, even though you have 4 wires in the gangbox, only 2 of them may be doing anything. There's a chance that the electrictian didn't hook the neautral to anything on either of the other ends.
Without trying to setup the switch, do you see ANY blinking on the LEDs when you send an X10 command?
Also, did you double check your wiring to make sure it's hooked-up correctly?
There's also a chance that, even though you have 4 wires in the gangbox, only 2 of them may be doing anything. There's a chance that the electrictian didn't hook the neautral to anything on either of the other ends.
JohnBullard
Active Member
Will a palmpad program these?
I've always used the Maxi Controller so I could just send the house / unit code, without an on or off.
Doesn't the palm pad send both the house/unit code and the on/off each time?
I've always used the Maxi Controller so I could just send the house / unit code, without an on or off.
Doesn't the palm pad send both the house/unit code and the on/off each time?
huggy59
Active Member
I've got a similar switch and I was able to program it with a palm pad through an MR26A connected to HS.
When the switch sees ANY X10 command on the line it should blink the green always-on LED on top, even if it doesn't respond to the command. If you don't see this happening, I'd bet the X10 signal or command isn't getting there, or the switch is not wired correctly, or it's bad. Try sending it a default code just in case it's not getting the program code you expect.
Also, if you have any other devices sending codes, such as motion sensors, the switch might be getting another code before you can send it the right code from the palm pad.
There was a report a while back that some palmpads didn't always send the proper code for some devices. I don't recall if it was the model you mentioned or not. You might want to try another device to send the code, such as a plug-in controller.
When the switch sees ANY X10 command on the line it should blink the green always-on LED on top, even if it doesn't respond to the command. If you don't see this happening, I'd bet the X10 signal or command isn't getting there, or the switch is not wired correctly, or it's bad. Try sending it a default code just in case it's not getting the program code you expect.
Also, if you have any other devices sending codes, such as motion sensors, the switch might be getting another code before you can send it the right code from the palm pad.
There was a report a while back that some palmpads didn't always send the proper code for some devices. I don't recall if it was the model you mentioned or not. You might want to try another device to send the code, such as a plug-in controller.
I had a bunch of switchlincs that had very similar issue. Talking with Switchlinc techie, there is a possibility that when you put the device into learn mode, if you have noise on the powerline the switch can interpret that as a house code being sent and then fall out of programming mode before you get a chance to send the real one.
I dinked with it for quite a while with no luck and smartHome gave me a "deal" on Levitons which have worked fine so far. Still have the switchlincs (like a dozen...) in boxes.
I dinked with it for quite a while with no luck and smartHome gave me a "deal" on Levitons which have worked fine so far. Still have the switchlincs (like a dozen...) in boxes.
AutomatedOutlet
Senior Member
Yes, your programming steps are OK. The Maxicontroller or for that matter any wired controller is much better to use though. Sometimes the signal strength of the palmpad going through a TM751 might be weak.
I have programmed them just fine though like you are trying to do. I would suggest that if you don't have a wired controller to try plugging the TM751 in another outlet.
I have programmed them just fine though like you are trying to do. I would suggest that if you don't have a wired controller to try plugging the TM751 in another outlet.
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