Water shutoff question

[RogueOne]

I have the Smarthome 12vdc 3/4 inch shutoff valve and it only has 3 wires (red, green and black)  the elk has 4 red, white green and black.  For the ELK model it says white is for Valve open and green is for status.  Would my green be status or valve open?
 
Also it describes connecting the black to the negative on a 12v power supply.  I was under the impression that the ELK board was what supplied the power.  Do I need to purchase a separate power supply for this?
 
Thanks

 

[Sparkman1]

If it's this valve: http://www.smarthome.com/smarthome-select-electronic-water-shutoff-valve-3-4-inch-12v-dc.html, then applying +12V to red will close the valve and applying +12V to green will open it.  The valve does not have a status wire.

 

[RogueOne]

If it's this valve: http://www.smarthome.com/smarthome-select-electronic-water-shutoff-valve-3-4-inch-12v-dc.html, then applying +12V to red will close the valve and applying +12V to green will open it.  The valve does not have a status wire.

Thanks, makes sense. What about the second part of my question? Does the power connect straight to the m1gold or needs a separate power supply?

 

[42etus]

I wouldn't power the valve from the Elk. Use a separate 12v supply and control it with a relay output from the Elk. A small 1 - 2 amp wall wart should do it.

 

[Sparkman1]

Thanks, makes sense. What about the second part of my question? Does the power connect straight to the m1gold or needs a separate power supply?

Sorry, don't have an Elk so can't comment on that part.

 

[drvnbysound]

Battery backup is certainly a consideration. Since it takes +12V to operate the valve you may not want to lose the ability to turn shut off the valve when the power goes out.
 
Working current is listed as 551mA; Elk's VAUX is limited at about 1A. Make sure to make the proper considerations for power if you are planning to connect other 12V devices. Elk does offer separate power supply boards, as well as separate relay boards as well.

 

[RogueOne]

So as long as I don't go over 1 amp, I can connect the water shutoff directly to the elk instead of a separate power supply?

 

[RAL]

So as long as I don't go over 1 amp, I can connect the water shutoff directly to the elk instead of a separate power supply?

 
You need to look at the total power consumption of all the devices that are powered by the M1.  This includes the keypad(s), wireless receivers, wired motion detectors, etc, plus the water shutoff valve.   When you total it all up, if it is less than 1A, then yes, you're ok.
 
Elk provides a current draw spreadsheet that makes this calculation relatively painless.

 

[RogueOne]

I will give it a look, thanks.  What I have now is the keypad, speaker/siren, elk transceiver, ge transceiver, M1xep, and 2 wired smokes. 

 

[RAL]

You didn't say which keypad you have (KP vs KP2) or what kind of smokes.  But assuming a KP2, and no smokes at all, you are at 0.68A without counting the shutoff valve.  Adding that in puts you up over 1.2A.   I would add an aux supply.

 

[RogueOne]

2 DSC smokes at 75ma each and using the kp2 keypad. not including the water shutoff it is at .83 amps.  How many amps is the water shutoff? Just says 12v 3w

 

[RAL]

2 DSC smokes at 75ma each and using the kp2 keypad. not including the water shutoff it is at .83 amps.  How many amps is the water shutoff? Just says 12v 3w

 
The specs say 551 mA  "working current" which I assume means when the valve is opening or closing.  That's in line with what other similar valves draw.  

 

[Del91574]

Ohm's law, P=I*E, which ends up at 250 Ma nominal, but the specs call for 550 Ma. Not horrible, but might also draw more if there's resistance or sediment binding the butterfly.
 
I wouldn't power the WSV from the panel.....asking for trouble. Looks like a very high inrush current.

 

[RogueOne]

Ohm's law, P=I*E, which ends up at 250 Ma nominal, but the specs call for 550 Ma. Not horrible, but might also draw more if there's resistance or sediment binding the butterfly.
 
I wouldn't power the WSV from the panel.....asking for trouble. Looks like a very high inrush current.

I will use a power adapter instead of the panel.
Thanks everyone