What next? (After pre-wire)

[slangner]

Hi all,
 
I posted a few questions a while back and got lots of support on pre-wiring my new construction home. We are almost to sheetrock stage and I wanted to make sure I didn't forget anything. I'd also like to get ideas and advice about the types of hardware I will need.
 
So, here's what we've done:
 
3 RG6QS from wiring closet to demarc
3 Cat6 from wiring closet to demarc
2 RG6QS and 3 Cat6 to every TV
1 Mic, 1 16/2 CL2 Zip, 2 Cat6 to every touch panel location (thinking about iPad minis or Kindle Fire?) - 10 total 
1 22/4 to every motion detector, door contact, window contact and siren
2 Cat6 behind every bed (1 for phone, 1 for data?)
1 22/4 and 1 16/2 to the top corner of every window for automated shades (Rollertrol?)
14/4 Speaker in ceiling (2 in most rooms, multiple in hallways, kitchen, living room, study, etc.)
Cat6 behind major appliances in kitchen and laundry
Multiple Cat6 under kitchen cabinets
Cat6 and power (run in separate conduits) in floor under desk location in study
Cat6 to every outside corner (in eave) and front door for cameras
3 Cat6, 3RG6QS to upstairs media storage room (where components will be stored)
 
Installed 2 - 4 gang outlets on dedicated circuit in panel room. (electrician did this)
 
The wiring closet is a long pass through closet from one hallway to another. My plan is to have shelves installed to store components and plywood for a rack, etc.
 
I will post a pic of my wiring closet when my account has been upgraded.
 
All smoke detectors were wired to code by electrician.
 
Conduit run from every TV location to attic
Conduit run from demarc to attic
 
I also bought HomeSeer3 Pro (never used this before)
 
So, now what? I plan to buy:
 
Dedicated All in One computer to run HomeSeer (I'm thinking I will set this up in the wiring closet?)
5 Star 18 Channel 12V power distribution (for Rollertrol units)
Some type of PoE injector and splitters for power to iPads/Kindles (24V 120W 12 port)
Elk M1 Gold for security
Cat6 Patch panel - 48 port
Tripp Lite 4U Hinged Wall Mount patch panel bracket
Lync 12 
z-wave light switches (someone mentioned "instant read status" is a must - I need to read more about this)
 
What am I missing? What would you recommend? I want to do this right the first time, so any advice is appreciated.
 
Thanks!
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 

[drvnbysound]

Instant status is automatic feedback to the system when the switches [or dimmers] are used manually. If the switches don't have this, your control system can [will] lose state of your loads.

 

[Neurorad]

Sounds very good.

If a large house maybe cat6 to a couple potential inconspicuous WAP locations. I would do 1 near/toward one end of the first floor and 1 near the other end of the 2nd.

Your router's WAP may be adequate, just for insurance.

Take thousands of pics before drywall goes up, and store them in folders by room. Do the organizing now, not later.

 

[jon102034050]

One thing to think about is water sensors.  For my Elk system, I used GRI-2600, but unfortunately, I didnt think to prewire for them at locations such as laundry, kitchen sink, refrigerator, toilets, etc....  This may be something you want to consider if your walls are still open.  You've done a tremendous job thinking of all the pre-wiring so far, I just went through this process a year ago, and I wish I'd have seen your list, haha!
 
In terms of zwave switches, I'd recommend you either go with Cooper RF9501 or Leviton VRS15-1LZ, both of these support instant status (or if you need dimmers, RF9540 and VRMX1-1LZ).  Just be aware, I believe their slave devices are wired differently in 3 way applications.  Leviton are more traditional in that a traveler is required whereas I believe cooper is actually another zwave switch in the slave locations.  This is important because, in my house at least, in the slave locations, there wasn't always a hot wire there, so Coopers werent always an option.  You'll also notice a HUGE price difference (2x?) between the auxiliary coopers vs the auxiliary levitons.  This is because the aux levitons aren't actually zwave, so if you switch it in the aux location, the instant status won't be reported.  
 
Here's a good reddit post that outlines the Cooper wiring:  https://www.reddit.com/r/homeautomation/comments/2k6d4m/how_to_install_cooper_rf9501_for_3way_switch
 
Hope this helps!