What's the right way to hook up a switched outlet to UPB?

[lvmikel]

Hello all.
Searched the forums but couldn't find an answer to this...
 
I have a few switched outlets and am not sure how to hook them up.
When I say switched outlet, I mean there are lamps plugged into these outlets that are always turned on.
You then use a wall switch to either supply power to that outlet or turn off power.
 
So best I figure...there are 2 ways to hook these up to UPB.
 
1. Get a UPB wall switch... OR
2. Leave the wall switch alone and get the UPB outlet module that plugs into the wall and then the lamp plugs into it.
 
Is there a Right or a Wrong way to do this?
Does it matter?
 
Thanks!
Mike
 

 

[pete_c]

Is there a Right or a Wrong way to do this?

 
No.
 
I have mine switched at the wall switch mostly.  I have rooms with both types.  Outlet modules connected to in wood / glass cabinets with cob lights and wall switches talking to other lamps in the room which talk to 1/2 of the outlets.
 
I utilize the mutipaddle wall switches to speak to links to turn everything on in one room; easy peasy stuff.  The automated module is the automated module; you will see it typically unless its behind some furniture maybe.
 
Years ago used automated wall outlets.  Always paranoid though that cleaning folks would plug a vacuum cleaner in one of those outlets.  They never did per my instruction anyways.
 
Buy more than you need and try it each way.   It will be your personal preference and maybe related to WAF.
 

Does it matter?

 
No.

 

[drozwood90]

Mike,
 
While I agree with Pete, and that is essentially how I have my house hooked up, I went further and made all my lights on those plugs "snap" on and off using UPB.  The reason, what if someone plugs in a vacuum cleaner, or something else that should not be dimmed?
 
There are special plugs you can buy to ensure that only a keyed lamp gets hooked into the plug.  I was going to buy them, but they are a bit expensive - so, I decided to only SNAP those lamps on/off.
Check with your local code enforcers.  I think there is a code on this.
 
--Dan

 

[Desert_AIP]

I use UPB controlled relay Outlets and the UPB wall switch is just a link transmitter.
 
In cases where I can hide behind furniture, I also use the plug in lamp or relay modules with the wall switch as a link transmitter.

 

[ano]

The important part is to make sure the breaker AND wiring AND switch can handle the MAXIMUM current that can be plugged into the outlet. In most cases, for a lighting circuit this is 15A.  So assuming you have a 15A breaker on this leg, and the wiring supports 15A, then the switch, at a minimum must switch 15A.  NEVER EVER us a switch rated at less than the breaker or wiring. 
 
So, now you know you basically need a 15A switch. Now, that limits things because there aren't many 15A UPB switches. Leviton makes one that I use. I don't think there are others, but I could be wrong.  DOT NO be tempted to use the Simply Automated switch, even if you disable dimming. Its only rated for about 6A. so NOT allowed. 
 
You could bypass the switch so the outlet is always on, and add a USB outlet as others have mentioned, but now you need to buy a UPB outlet and a UPB switch to control it, adding to the cost. So the cheapest way is to just use a 15A UPB switch.

 

[tmbrown97]

It's a matter of opinion... knowing the details (including the fact that most controlled outlets are only rated for 12 amps despite the wiring and breaker being rated for 15 or 20) made me conclude that, although more expensive, the best route is to swap the switch but connect no load - have it as a signaling device only - and don't swap the outlet, but instead use a lamp or appliance module to control the feature set.  It costs more but that's what I did.

 

[lvmikel]

Thanks ano and work2play. I didn't even consider the amp rating on the switch. Makes perfect sense...i just didnt consider it.

I think i am going to have a problem as my load is a dimmable cfl/led and all the 15a switches and appliance modules that i see dont support this....

 

[wuench]

If you want it to be dimmable then the only legal solution is to use a plug in dimmer module.  These say they support 300W or 400W LED/CFL...   

 

[pete_c]

Here the original electrical contractor did the 1/2 outlet switched to the wall thing in many rooms.  It's all the same methodology (righty tighty is always on and lefty lucy is switched).  My old home was configured in the same manner.  (well so is FL) Always the concern was relating to connecting the switched outlet to an automated switch and an accidental vacuum.  I wrote up an FAQ relating to a set of rules to follow when doing this and that in the house.
 
I did the same as above for my new Cob LED lamp installation in this glass and wooden cabinet.  (IE: using a UPB link for a light module).  I have other lights in the room switched by the UPB load on the outlets.

 

[wuench]

It is legal to have a switched outlet, but not one on a dimmer.  Of course if you are willing to accept the risk of something besides the light getting plugged into it (applicance, space heater), it causing a fire, and the insurance company not paying out and you are willing to remember to remove it if you sell the house or before you have any inspections done, you have a lot more options...

 

[pete_c]

It is legal to have a switched outlet, but not one on a dimmer.

 
I did not know that. 
 
Earlier home's electric switched outlets (in the midwest) were done up (built) in the late 70's like this and I used X10 switches for these in the 80's (well and another FAQ).

 

[ano]

The national Electrical Codes are not a suggestion. If you don't understand what they are or why they are in place, you should not be doing your own wiring and instead hire a licensed electrician. This includes replacing switches, replacing outlets, or adding UPB couplers and repeaters and other things to your electrical box. They are in place to not only prevent a fire in your house, but also your neighbor's house when yours catches on fire.

wuench, on 13 Mar 2015 - 07:07, said:
It is legal to have a switched outlet, but not one on a dimmer. Of course if you are willing to accept the risk of something besides the light getting plugged into it (applicance, space heater), it causing a fire, and the insurance company not paying out and you are willing to remember to remove it if you sell the house or before you have any inspections done, you have a lot more options...

Lets say you put a 6A UPB switch in the wall that controls an outlet, and you sell that house. The inspector is not responsible for verifying that each switch in the house is correct and its doubtful they would catch it. Then lets say its cold one morning and the new homeownwer plugs a space heater (1800W) into the outlet? When the house burns down, you could be liable for that. the inspector would have zero liability because that is not something an inspector is expected to check.

The NEC covers even more than switched outlets. A UPB dimmer has to be rated correctly for lamp fixtures as well. The switch has to be rated for the maximum rating of all the lighting fixtures, NOT JUST the ratings of all the bulbs. If you have a fixture that is rated for 1000W because it can hold 10 100W light bulbs, but you are using 10 10W LED bulbs, you STILL have to use the 1000W rating. It its a fixture with non-replacable LEDs, that is a different story.

There is actually more for those that really want to follow the code, but this is often not checked. Since 2002 many branches circuits of your house (bedrooms in 2002, other non-GFI branches in 2008) have required the installation of an ARC-Fault breakers when performing any modification of the electrical system. Replacing switches could be considered such a modification. Not replacing these breakers won't cause your house to burn down, but it is good practice to upgrade to these breakers if you don't have them.

There are over 50,000 home electrical fires each year in the U.S.
Home electrical distribution and lighting systems are the fourth leading cause of home fires - See more at: http://www.esfi.org/index.cfm/page/Fire-Statistics/pid/12014#sthash.Fie13lyj.dpuf

So the three correct ways to switch an outlet are:
1) Use a 15A UPB switch.
Pro: Simple.
Con: Only Leviton makes these so they may not match your other switches.

2) Wire the outlet always on and use a UPB outlet and UPB transmitter switch
Pro: You can use any UPB switch
Con: Requires both a UPB switch and UPB outlet, adding to the cost.

3) Wire the outlet always on, and use a lamp or appliance module to control the device.
Pro: You can use any UPB switch.
Your switch can control any outlet in the house and you can change it at will
Con: You have to buy a UPB switch and a UPB module
Modules are a bit ugly

 

[pete_c]

Thanks Ano.
 
Yup; the purchase of one contractor home build was using the "wall switch" to the 1/2 of the outlet.  When I personally asked about having dimmers installed instead of switches it was presented as a none issue with just an extra hardware charge. 
 
Today there are many homes with same said electrical light switch to 1/2 of the outlets in a room.  Personally I have suggested that a person non familiar with electrical hire an electrician. 
 
Would that electrician just say no to the work of adding automated switches (with dimming) to loads in outlets?
 
I understand relating to the national electrical codes, fire hazards, et al.

 

[ano]

Its a real threat that someone could plug in a wall heater to the outlet, other than that its probably not a giant problem. I am guilty of using Simply Automated switches to control an outlet as well, and I saw to it that nothing else but a lamp was plugged in, but in hindsight, it wasn't a good idea. Heck, electric heaters even in a regular wall outlet scare me a bit, and an outlet will get warm.  In my new house I'm also installing the ARC-fault breakers. This house is about 18 years old and was previously used as a rental.  You would not believe the wiring I found when I started replacing the switches with UPB. It was VERY scary how some of the added dimmers were wired.  I had to replace all the outlets also because plugs would just fall out.

 

[Desert_AIP]

You could also wire a relay inside the outlet box controlled by the UPB switch.
In the same manner that the HAI 30A relay operates.
It's just a standard UPB switch that controls a 30A rated relay.
The output from the switch is connected to the coil inputs of the relay, and the relay switches the load.
 
The Magnecraft DPST relay used in the HAI load module costs about $19.
It has a 120VAC coil and 30A 240VAC rated contacts.
 
Since it's all mains voltages, I believe it could be placed in the wall box behind the outlet.
May need to replace the wall box with a deep old work box but that should have plenty of room.