Where did you mount your M1XEP?

shenandoah75

Active Member
I was really hoping to pull it out of the black box and mount it in the slot on the side of the M1... I have the elk 14" cabinet and a 42" leviton flush mounted in ajacent stud cavities and would like not to clutter the wall (already have the speaker and doorbell transformer surface mounted). I have a double outlet gang box in the elk enclosure and if i squeeze the warts and the battery really hard, they fit... However, with the card vertically mounted in Elk's plastic slots, the connections face out - no problem except for the serial cable which won't allow the door to shut as it sticks out too far...

My other thoughts were:

1) mount it flat on the elk door - don't want to drill it and not too confident in double sided tape....

2) mount it in the leviton flat using one of elk's 3/5" plates. Nice cause i only need the serial cable running between the two. Only problem is i my 4 outlets in that enclosure are in use for data/video.

fyi - both panels are hard wired to a junction box with a male plug coming out into a UPS so loss of power isn't a big concern, but it's another reason i'd like it in one of the enclosures...

-brad

p.s. my M1 doesn't have female screw terminals on the serial connector. So the connection is pretty lose. Is this normal?
 
I just ordered a 50" panel just for all the M1 stuff, it really can take up a lot of space! I would definitely love to see some pics of your current setup, it might help us help you.
 
the serial connection being loose is normal . I think someone pointed that out a few weeks ago. Just one of those "oops" things.
 
I can second the connection being lose being normal.

Electron has wise words with recommending a large can. I had the 14" that came with the elk, and then added another 14" below it. It is workable, but not ideal. Go with as large of a can that you can afford/think you need/have space for in my opinion. Regardless of what you think you will do now, you will do more...

Mine is actually mounted on a board to the right of the can (can was mounted on a plywood board mounted on the concrete walls), but I would do this differently if doing over, or if replacing with the right size can.
 
Along the lines of what was mentioned above. Can you guys ALL post pictures of your installs?

I am getting ready to purchase an M1G and there doesn't seem to be any real info or guidelines on how to mount the accessories.
I was considering getting a s 28" can and mouning it all flat, I just recently found info on people using the slots and mouting them perpendicular to the can...

Even if you aren't happy with it. Pictures would really help others avoid your mistakes.
 
I am working on my sisters install now. I used a 50" CV can. My current plan (which may change as I dig into it) is to mount stuff to the CV plates with the plastic standoffs. I have a single duplex outlet in it which is split so I have one phase on each socket. I then use a can mountable power strip so I can plug a few things into it.

I will post pictures to the gallery over the next few weeks as the install continues.
 
The squeaking wheel on the 9 pin RS-232 connector screw down posts has been greased at 4 times the cost of the connector without screw down posts. Probably will not see it in production for several months. I have seen kits available to add the screw posts but not from ELK.
 
wuench said:
Along the lines of what was mentioned above.  Can you guys ALL post pictures of your installs?   

I am getting ready to purchase an M1G and there doesn't seem to be any real info or guidelines on how to mount the accessories.
I was considering getting a s 28" can and mouning it all flat, I just recently found info on people using the slots and mouting them perpendicular to the can...

Even if you aren't happy with it.  Pictures would really help others avoid your mistakes.
Here you go: :D

http://www.cocoontech.com/index.php?showto...hl=more+thought

http://www.cocoontech.com/index.php?showto...hl=current+home

I took a whole different approach and just positioned the actual Elk unit in the best possible location, then "created" mounting holes for it in that location.

Spanky had a suggestion of mounting those "sticky" magnet sheets to the back of the Elk and mounting it to the can that way (so it can be moved around to where you want it).

Regards,

BSR
 
In the past 14 months or so I have had a system up and running at home I have never had my serial cable be an issue. I ran my cable through a knockout (tight fit) and then used a wire tie and a Stick on pad to make a strain relief. It will work till the glue dries out on the pad.
 
I ended up using phone cable for my serial cable, much less stress, and haven't had any issues myself.
 
Spanky said:
The squeaking wheel on the 9 pin RS-232 connector screw down posts has been greased at 4 times the cost of the connector without screw down posts. Probably will not see it in production for several months. I have seen kits available to add the screw posts but not from ELK.
Thank you! Both for greasing the wheel and the retrofit idea.

I think this might do the trick:

http://www.connectworld.net/cgi-bin/iec/DBPOST
 
Sorry i was really gonna try to get some pics, but was just too busy up in the attics this weekend... anyway - finally decided to leave the slots in the 14" M1 box for an HVAC serial expander and future stuff if needed....

I am running the serial cable out the top, through the stud and into the leviton enclosure on it's left and will mount the m1xep on on e of elk's plates (ELK-SWP/ELK-SWP3) in there. Still need to figure out power, but no biggie.


And now i'm too embarrsed to show pics after the above - my closet isn't anywhere near that pretty. Those pics look like one of our datacenters or something - very nice!!!!

thx
-brad
 
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