Window Sensor mounting question

IVB

Senior Member
I have a 100yr old house and a new Elk M1G. I'd like to put in window sensors, but am not rich enough to get those funky cool wireless ones. However, I do have easy access to the crawl space.

Can I simply
- get one of these cheap reed switches,
- drill a hole in the bottom of the window frame,
- god knows how but drill a hole in the floor [from the crawlspace] that's generally lined up
- run the 2-conductor wire through the hole into the crawlspace and run it to the Elk?

TIA for any help.
 

BraveSirRobbin

Moderator
This is a tough call without seeing the situation. I would worry about plumbing or wiring behind the walls.

There are long drill bits and fiberglass rods made for this purpose though. Do you have a pic of a couple of locations. Might spark some suggestions from our fellow installers here!
 

IVB

Senior Member
oh, you're right. I'll take some pics and post them. This is an ancient plumbing infrastructure - i'll trace that out to double-check, but i don't think any pipes are below these windows. However AC is another issue. I'm going to look to see if there's any outlets running below the windows, which would be an obvious clue.

Thanks for that heads-up, let me do a little bit of homework and i'll post back with the pics and some basic analysis of the situation.
 

FrankMc

Active Member
Hi IVB

Yes those reed switches are ok to use , i have used those (concealed reeds) on all my doors and windows....Here in Oz most houses are single storey and easy to get wiring down from the roof space to each window location...As BSR stated some pics might help....

Also i used a drill the size of the outside of the reed switch and drilled in a few millimeteres 1/8 inch and then used the correct drill size for the reed ...this allowed the reed to be flush with the face of the window surface.....The larger drill was a cork screw type drill so didnt cut a tapered hole ...hope this makes sense what im trying to say..

Once we see a few pics of your windows and can state wethere access from above / below hopefully can give some idea fo how to get some cables to them...

Good Luck
Frank
 

bfisher

Active Member
I have done exactly as you suggest for many windows in my house. It's a lot of work, and is not fun... but it gets the job done.

For windows that are low to the floor, I could get from the basement up to the window without an issue.

For windows that are not close to the floor (waist high or higher), I would cut a small opening in the wall at outlet height to connect the wiring (passed down from the window, and up from the basement). I used an old wiring box (no back) and cover it with a blank plate for a clean finish.
 

Squintz

Senior Member
Just adding some info:

I was in the need of a 3/8 inch reed switch as mentioned in the first post of this thread. I went to radio shack to pick them up since I don't feel like waiting for them to be shipped. Those things are $7 a piece in RatShack. So if you have the time to wait I would order the 10 pack which is only like $22 including shipping from AO.

I could not find any of them in Home Depot either so don't bother looking there.
 

jeffx

Active Member
You can also try eBay for wired sensors if you need to buy in bulk.

As far as drilling down to pull wire up, Home Depot sells a VERY long (4 feet?)flexible drill bit that with slot near the tip of the bit. You just drill down until you hit basement air, and then, leaving the bit in the hole, go to your basement and tie some pull string to the bit before you pull it back out. Saves the time and trouble over trying to use fish tape after the fact.
 

jeffx

Active Member
bfisher said:
For windows that are not close to the floor (waist high or higher), I would cut a small opening in the wall at outlet height to connect the wiring (passed down from the window, and up from the basement). I used an old wiring box (no back) and cover it with a blank plate for a clean finish.
Your wife let you cover those holes with wall plates?? I had to patch, spackle and paint :) I now think the long flexible drill bit is better way to install in these situations.
 

IVB

Senior Member
jeffx said:
bfisher said:
For windows that are not close to the floor (waist high or higher), I would cut a small opening in the wall at outlet height to connect the wiring (passed down from the window, and up from the basement). I used an old wiring box (no back) and cover it with a blank plate for a clean finish.
Your wife let you cover those holes with wall plates?? I had to patch, spackle and paint :) I now think the long flexible drill bit is better way to install in these situations.
yeah, my wife would have me do the same.

Ok, here's a pic. Does this work, or do you need a different angle?

I'm fairly certain there's no plumbing, but there is definitely A/C under the middle window. I didn't go under the house to determine the specific A/C run, so I may be able to drill around that.

Thanks again for any assistance.

window.jpg
 

bfisher

Active Member
jeffx said:
Your wife let you cover those holes with wall plates?? I had to patch, spackle and paint :D I now think the long flexible drill bit is better way to install in these situations.
LOL - yep, she did! I like leaving the wall plate there as well since it makes for easier adding of future wires (I've done that several times for various things).

There are cases when the long flex bit won't work - such as many of my windows. I have a basement, and most windows are on the exterior of the house :) which means they are too far "outside" to stick a 4' drill bit up the wall (the foundation prevents me).

Using a drill angle-adapter, I can barely get a 4" drill bit up into the wall.

My house has horizontal 2x4's mounted in the wall as well... which means the flex bit would have to go through the floor, through the fireblocker, and up to the window. Odds of me getting it through all that without coming through the interior or exterior wall are slim to none. A blank wall plate is much easier :D
 

Mike

Senior Member
It is hard to tell but wouldnt you need another sensor for the top of the window as well? It is not clear if that part moves as well.

If so that might force you to change your strategy (or make more holes).
 

IVB

Senior Member
Sorry, just realized the picture doesn't clearly show the top part - the pane you see is just the bottom half of the window. The top part doesn't move.
 
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