Zip cord around window

Steve

Senior Member
For any pro installers out there... I'm trying to figure out what glue is used to glue 22ga zip cord around the perimeter of windows. This is a common practice here in Fla when the house is wired post construction. Somebody mentioned carpenters glue but that does not seem tacky enough or set up fast enough? Unless a bead is laid and left to sit for a while first? You can see some examples of what I am talking about here. The glue used to be clear, but it is yellowed in the pics (15 years old). Anyone have any idea what glue is used and the best technique to get the wire to lay in there nice and tight?
 

Digger

Senior Member
I have never done it but what about using paiintable caulking? Run a thin bead and lay the wire in it after its tacky. The after it sets run another thin bead over it and let dry then paint?

Might hide the wire almost completely.
 

rfdesq

Senior Member
It's hard for me to see the pictures, but wasn't it Sir Issac Newton who said "give me enough RTV and I can stick the world together."? I've had good luck with RTV (Room Temparature Vulcanizing) silicone.
 

Rustytek

Active Member
i live in florida and the standard is to use paintable caulk. If used on a white window frame, then white caulking is acceptable as long as the bead is straight.
 

elcano

Active Member
I have used Hot glue, but it is a pain and too slow. ALso, I have not tried paintin over it, but I think it will not stick well to the glue.
 

Mike

Senior Member
Forgive my ignorance: Once you do this, do you notch the walls and run the wiring normally, or do you try to go straight down/up in the walls and continue the run along the edges?
 

Skibum

Senior Member
Thise pics look like crazy glue with a bit of zip kicker.

That is what I usually use. Set time is instant once the zip kicker is applied.
 

Steve

Senior Member
Mike said:
Forgive my ignorance: Once you do this, do you notch the walls and run the wiring normally, or do you try to go straight down/up in the walls and continue the run along the edges?
Yeah, this is surface mounted, no notching
 

Steve

Senior Member
Skibum said:
Thise pics look like crazy glue with a bit of zip kicker.

That is what I usually use. Set time is instant once the zip kicker is applied.
I thought super glue would not stick to a porous surface like drywall? Maybe a combination - a little super glue to tack it in place followed by a thin bead of caulk to cover it?

I can see myself now with my fingers a permanent part of the security system. ;)
 

Steve

Senior Member
Rustytek said:
i live in florida and the standard is to use paintable caulk. If used on a white window frame, then white caulking is acceptable as long as the bead is straight.
I don't mean to be insulting at all, but by 'the standard' are you referring to the standard for pro security installers?
 

Rupp

Senior Member
Paintable silicone caulk. The silicone based caulks dry fast and then can be painted over. Watch the RTV it's very hard to get paint to stick to it.
 

Sandpiper

Active Member
I have used hot glue alone and in combination with paintable caulk. The glue sets up fast, and holds the wire in place while the caulk, which does a better job of hiding, dries. A coat of paint over the caulk, after it dries, completely hides it.

Edit to add technique:
Hot glue one end with a bead 2 or 3 inches long. Wait for this to set (a minute or two). Then a few feet down the length of the wire, stretch it straight, and tack again. You will have to hold it while the glue sets. Repeat the tacking as necessary down the length to the other end.

You may then want to go back and tack with the hot glue a few more intermediate places. Once you are sure the wire is tacked well enough to not fall back down, then use the caulk. Fill in on the sides and smooth it out. Let this dry, then paint.

Ta-da....completely hidden and very stable, Will not yellow.
 

Steve

Senior Member
Well, I tackled this last night and today. I used gel superglue to tack it in place and then paintable silcone caulk. Hot glue might have been better. I did this around all the curves and baseboard. Around the curve it needs to be tacked in place much more often. After doing 1 side this way it took too long and I did not like the way it came out, so for the 7 remaining ones I removed the existing caulk, etc between the drywall and the window. Then I tucked the wire essentially in the space between the window and drywall, then just ran a nice bead of the silicone caulk over it. Those came out MUCH nicer, plus it allowed me to place the contacts in place with less exposed wire. I'll post pics as part of the whole install when I am done.

I don't see any way possible that this could be done on the surface with just caulk only (without prior tacking), especially around the curves. Caulk simply does not set fast enough.
 

jeffx

Active Member
Thanks for the tip on this caulk technique! This saved me a few hours cabling an outside intercom to my front door this weekend.
 
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