Who? What? Where?

Looks really nice. Please show us another one zoomed out to include the individual cable labels.
 
While clearly very well done, God forbid it ever requires service or changes...

Every single screw terminal on the panel is terminated to a 110 distribution block, so if a change ever needs to be made all I have to do is change a wire configuration on the 110 block. The only time the panel would ever need to be removed would be in the event of a catastrophic failure, and in that situation I could just un-snap the terminal strips.

Looks really nice. Please show us another one zoomed out to include the individual cable labels.

For some reason, I am unable to actually upload images here, so I will point you to my website where you can view all the lates images as they are available. I will not be able to work on it this weekend so it may be another week before an update ... ;)

Click here for photos!!!
 
Brandon, I hate 66-blocks because I seem to always get the wire I'm punching down caught in the adjacent pickle fork. Additionally, I usually manage to tear up my hands when populating a panel. In spite of that, I use them because I have not mastered the art of removing C-4 or C-5 clips without damaging the basic 110-block when I have to test wires or make changes. An LVDS contractor where I work told me to grab the C-4 with a channel lock and wiggle vertically until it loosens from the bumps, then horizontally until it snaps off the frame. Then he cracked the frame at the row of little bumps the clip catches on when he demonstrated this for me, just like what happens when I've done it.

Do you have a technique that works? Is there a special tool for the job?

Regards. . . .John
 
Brandon, I hate 66-blocks because I seem to always get the wire I'm punching down caught in the adjacent pickle fork. Additionally, I usually manage to tear up my hands when populating a panel. In spite of that, I use them because I have not mastered the art of removing C-4 or C-5 clips without damaging the basic 110-block when I have to test wires or make changes. An LVDS contractor where I work told me to grab the C-4 with a channel lock and wiggle vertically until it loosens from the bumps, then horizontally until it snaps off the frame. Then he cracked the frame at the row of little bumps the clip catches on when he demonstrated this for me, just like what happens when I've done it.

Do you have a technique that works? Is there a special tool for the job?

Regards. . . .John

an IDC remover and a "hooked" icepick is the only method i have found to work. The IDC remover will distribute pressure evenly along the entire surface of the C4, and the icepick is used to lightly lift up the part that hooks into the "bumps". Unfortunately, the 110 block is not designed as a temporary solution, so there is no "fool-proof" method ...
 
While clearly very well done, God forbid it ever requires service or changes...

Every single screw terminal on the panel is terminated to a 110 distribution block, so if a change ever needs to be made all I have to do is change a wire configuration on the 110 block. The only time the panel would ever need to be removed would be in the event of a catastrophic failure, and in that situation I could just un-snap the terminal strips.

Looks really nice. Please show us another one zoomed out to include the individual cable labels.

For some reason, I am unable to actually upload images here, so I will point you to my website where you can view all the lates images as they are available. I will not be able to work on it this weekend so it may be another week before an update ... ;)

Click here for photos!!!
Fair enough. In following your link, I found a couple more photos. Frick, that is pretty. I've pulled the truck in the garage and left it running as there's no way I can top that. Seriously, you've pushed me to another level with your dressing and my client's will be better served (if paying a bit more for time) by it! I've uploaded a couple that show my most recent piss ant work...hanging my head in shame...
 

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Fair enough. In following your link, I found a couple more photos. Frick, that is pretty. I've pulled the truck in the garage and left it running as there's no way I can top that. Seriously, you've pushed me to another level with your dressing and my client's will be better served (if paying a bit more for time) by it! I've uploaded a couple that show my most recent piss ant work...hanging my head in shame...

LOL Anthony! Your wiring job is fine! Thing is, you do it for profit and I am OCD :ph34r: ... Just think ... I can spend over 90 hours (EASY) just on dressing wires!! ;) :eek:
 
Are those actually EOL's AT the panel??? The OmniPro does not let you wire as plain N/C like the Elk letting you eliminate the wasted EOL at the panel??
 
The main board does not require EOL, but any of the expansion enclosures DO require the EOL resistors. We will be carrying the contacts with the resistors built in for HAI soon.
 
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