Garage door opener to output 7 -how to?

Quick and simple question....

To control my garage door opener using a hacked wireless remote control, do I connect one wire to output 7, and the other wire to NEG on the J16?

And... If I do the same for a driveway sliding gate remote control to output 8, do I use the same NEG?

..... And these two contacts do not require any connection to 12v? Correct?

I think you will need to use a relay to do that. Outputs 7 - 16 are switched 12v power so when you turned output 7 on you would be sending 12v power to the remote. I think what you want is to just short the 2 connections in the wireless remote together.

http://www.elkproducts.com/automate_garage_door.html

That shows using output 7 to control a relay which would short the two wires on the control to close the door.

Bummer. More equipment needed :wacko:

Two more questions

1) do output 7-16 all share the same NEG on J16?

2) should there be a green terminal block for J16? I don't see it in my box.... Or did I lose it?

There is no header block, it takes a ribbon cable which should come with the Elk-M1RB which is the part you would need to covert them from voltage outputs to relay outputs.

You use the same ground for all those outputs. FYI, I would use THIS relay when connecting one to those outputs.

Also, if you think you will use more relays in the future you may want to consider just getting a relay output expander card.

Agree with the above, with the addition of I would suggest the M1RB instead of M1XOVR first.

DELInstallations said:

Agree with the above, with the addition of I would suggest the M1RB instead of M1XOVR first.

Click to expand...

I disagree, for approximately $45 more dollars the M1XOVR gives you more future expansion capability!

Wow - I'm gonna be the guy in the middle... the M1RB lets you turn the onboard voltage outputs into full relays; whereas the M1XOVR gives you 8 relays and 8-more voltage-only outputs (which can be turned into relays with a M1RB giving you 16 total relays).

They both have their place and your need dictates which one you should buy.

Here's my $.02 for people to make their own decision:

A M1RB gives you dry contacts straight off the board for the triggers. Takes 250 mA max, everything on. The XOVR takes 330 mA BUT if the triggers are used as well, each one is up to 50 mA, so you're looking at another 400 mA of current, for up to 730 mA from the M1!

If your panel is already going to be strapped for power or running close, the XOVR will make the problem worse. As Work alluded to, you can change the triggers on an XOVR to relays, but a lot more in ways of calculations need to be considered, and in the case of an alarm system, you need to figure out the MAXIMUM current the panel will draw, not IF the relays are on, for whatever purpose.

If you're looking at expansion, the rule of thumb I've adopted is when adding an XOVR or an XOVR/RB combo, you're automatically going to be adding another supply because the unit will instantly tax the bus wiring's power supply, and with other bus devices out there, it's going to be a whole new can of worms.

As what was stated, there's places for each, but from an economic standpoint, to install an XOVR properly, you're looking at the cost of the unit and an additional power supply for it. The M1RB, for most out there, would only come into play for what current it draws, and for a "typical" install, I doubt most would need to add a supply, unless they have a lot of powered devices already on the M1.

If you only need 8 or fewer relays at present, don't get the m1xovr. There is nothing to stop you from getting it in the future if you need it later and there is nothing that would be wasted getting the m1rb now and adding the m1xovr later should you need more relays (the m1rb would still be used).

I went ahead and ordered the m1rb board.

Another question is, the j16 cable that comes with it, how long is it?

I have my components already mounted inside the can, so there's literally only one place to mount the m1rb board. Which is about 16 inches away....

Anyone have the measurements of the included j16 cable that comes with the m1rb?

2) also, if direct connection m1rb to j16, there would be no need to enroll, correct? Simply plug and play?

Plug and play for the relay, just changes the voltage triggers to dry contacts (with LED's) like adding a pile of low current trigger relays.

I think the plug and cable is 12" max from memory. I've usually put them to the direct right of the M1 within the enclosure or been spoiled with a second enclosure mounted to the right of the main panel.