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Garage door opener to output 7 -how to?
Posted 26 May 2012 - 06:00 AM
To control my garage door opener using a hacked wireless remote control, do I connect one wire to output 7, and the other wire to NEG on the J16?
And... If I do the same for a driveway sliding gate remote control to output 8, do I use the same NEG?
..... And these two contacts do not require any connection to 12v? Correct?
Posted 26 May 2012 - 06:29 AM
That shows using output 7 to control a relay which would short the two wires on the control to close the door.
Posted 26 May 2012 - 06:42 AM
Two more questions
1) do output 7-16 all share the same NEG on J16?
2) should there be a green terminal block for J16? I don't see it in my box.... Or did I lose it?
Posted 26 May 2012 - 09:37 AM
Posted 26 May 2012 - 11:54 AM
Agree with the above, with the addition of I would suggest the M1RB instead of M1XOVR first.
I disagree, for approximately $45 more dollars the M1XOVR gives you more future expansion capability!
Edited by BraveSirRobbin, 27 May 2012 - 09:35 AM.
Posted 27 May 2012 - 02:36 AM
They both have their place and your need dictates which one you should buy.
Posted 29 May 2012 - 09:47 AM
A M1RB gives you dry contacts straight off the board for the triggers. Takes 250 mA max, everything on. The XOVR takes 330 mA BUT if the triggers are used as well, each one is up to 50 mA, so you're looking at another 400 mA of current, for up to 730 mA from the M1!
If your panel is already going to be strapped for power or running close, the XOVR will make the problem worse. As Work alluded to, you can change the triggers on an XOVR to relays, but a lot more in ways of calculations need to be considered, and in the case of an alarm system, you need to figure out the MAXIMUM current the panel will draw, not IF the relays are on, for whatever purpose.
If you're looking at expansion, the rule of thumb I've adopted is when adding an XOVR or an XOVR/RB combo, you're automatically going to be adding another supply because the unit will instantly tax the bus wiring's power supply, and with other bus devices out there, it's going to be a whole new can of worms.
As what was stated, there's places for each, but from an economic standpoint, to install an XOVR properly, you're looking at the cost of the unit and an additional power supply for it. The M1RB, for most out there, would only come into play for what current it draws, and for a "typical" install, I doubt most would need to add a supply, unless they have a lot of powered devices already on the M1.
Posted 29 May 2012 - 11:21 AM
Posted 31 May 2012 - 08:50 AM
Another question is, the j16 cable that comes with it, how long is it?
I have my components already mounted inside the can, so there's literally only one place to mount the m1rb board. Which is about 16 inches away....
Anyone have the measurements of the included j16 cable that comes with the m1rb?
2) also, if direct connection m1rb to j16, there would be no need to enroll, correct? Simply plug and play?
Posted 31 May 2012 - 05:39 PM
I think the plug and cable is 12" max from memory. I've usually put them to the direct right of the M1 within the enclosure or been spoiled with a second enclosure mounted to the right of the main panel.
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