UPB noise from HVAC unit

I have just installed a new UPB system in my house and am experiencing excessive noise coming from the HVAC system.   The system is a Lennox XP 25 which has a variable speed inverter motor on both the compressor and the fan.  
 
Any suggestions on how to filter out noise from a large load like an AC compressor?
 
 

I don't know of any off the shelf UPB filters that can handle the current that an HVAC compressor requires.   But if you look at the Simply Automated noise filter, it is a simple L-C low pass filter, consisting of an inductor and a capacitor wired like this:
 

 
I'll hazard a guess and say that you would need an inductor rated at 50 Amps to handle the load of your compressor.  The capacitor simply needs to be able to withstand the AC line voltage.
 
As to values, a 27.6 uH inductor and a 50 uF capacitor would probably do the job, giving you a filter that would get rid of any noise above 4 kHz, as the S-A filter does.
 
Here's a company that makes high current inductors:
 
http://www.wcmagnetics.com/catalog/hightemp-50amp_choke.php
 
[Edit]:
I think this other model inductor is a better choice in terms of being easy to mount and connect in the environment you'd be dealing with.
Either the 26 or 33 uH units should work fine.
 
http://www.wcmagnetics.com/catalog/highcurrent-pwr_inductor.php
 
[End edit]
 
This capacitor would probably be adequate:
 
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FBRWUP0
 
Beyond that, you'd have to assemble the parts yourself and enclose them in an appropriate enclosure, and assume the responsibility for doing it correctly and avoiding safety hazards.

Depending on which brand you went with, I'd just say that Simply Automated has unmatched customer service and I'm sure they'd have a solution for you if you contact them.

Curious if it's introducing UPB noise or just UPB signal sucking?
 
Is it a static change when the motor speed changes or a dynamic change only occurring at certain times?
 
Here I had to install a UPB repeater related (guess) to a new pool pump motor (next door) as it appeared to cause UPB signal sucking here. (no noise though)
 
Unrelated to UPB .....
 
Here in the Midwest installed a new outdoor AC compressor the year before last (2013). 
 
Last year (mid 2015) the capacitor went out on the unit and it had to get replaced. (< than one year of new use)
 
AC guru told me that it just happens sometimes but could have been relating to a voltage surge occurring outside. 
 
The replacement capacitor was next to the contactor and it was only some $30; but the grief (WAF) was a pita to deal with.
 
The all metal encased capacitor was bulging (while it still looked brand new).  Over the last 10 years I have had to replace the inside capacitor (blower motor) twice now.
 
I don't know if I fixed anything but redid the electrical outside next to the circuit breaker ingress and added another surge suppressor which is supposed to improve the electric some (I don't know if it did or did not). 
 

 
It was a PITA to rewire the HV electrical wires; but not difficult; just a bit time consuming. (Outside disconnect box to AC contactor ===> fuse box to surge suppressor to AC contactor).

I have purchased nearly 100 SA switches for the house, so I will definitely give them a call.
 
Ral, thanks for the detailed design help.  

Pete, it is pure noise.   At times, there is so much noise the PIM will not connect using upstart.   If I am able to get a connection, the noise goes up to 30+ on the meter.
 
If I turn the HVAC unit off, noise goes to zero.
 
It is possible that the unit gives off more noise when the compressor is running at certain speeds.   However, I have not tested for that yet.    I have not tested to see if the AHU fan is also a source of noise.     If it is, then I will need to filter both the compressor and the fan.  
 
This is a new house.   When I bought the switches before installing all of the appliances, I knew that there was a chance I would have to deal with noise.   However, I was hoping that I could just replace a noisy light fixture or install a filter on a UPS.  
 
I am also installing an induction stove-- and crossing my fingers that it is not another high amp source of noise.

Wow.
 
Do you have a repeater or phase coupler in place?  Just curious.
 
Adding stuff over the years (well starting initially with X10); did leave the older X10 filter in the fuse panel (one with two phase connectors and the wrap around the ingress from outside neutral). 
 

 
Not sure if it does anything at all for the UPB signals.  In the older home did the DIY thing relating to filters in the fuse panel. 

I talked with the folks at SA.   They said one option is to install 10 of their 10 amp filters.    There are 5 coils in parallel on each phase of the 220 volt circuit coming in.   
 
The other option is to use a larger single coil similar to the recommendation from RAL above.   However, they recommended a 1 millihenry coil-- instead of a 30 micro henry coil.   The 50 amp, 1 millihenry coil is a monster weighing in at 14 lbs and costing $135.   
 
https://www.hammfg.com/electronics/transformers/choke/195-196
 
He also mentioned that I could try it without the capacitor, as it will probably work without it.
 
A few more questions:
- RAL, any thoughts on the difference between a 1mH and a 30 uH?    
- Any thoughts on 10 coils in parallel, vs 2 coils (one each phase)    Looks like the price is similar, but a lot more wiring with the 10 coils.    Is one more reliable or safer than the other?
- Does humidity damage these coils?     Can I mount it outdoors in a Nema 3R IP24 box?   Or do I need to mount it in the attic?

There are many combinations of coil and capacitor values that will result in filters that have similar low pass frequencies.  The various combinations will have some different characteristics, and one may work better than another for certain types of noise.
 
If the SA 10 Amp filter uses a 1 mH coil, then I would be inclined to use that value as well, just because they know it works (at least in most cases).
 
Did SA recommend a capacitor value as well?  My guess is that 2 uF would be about right for use with such a coil.
 
Putting multiple 10 Amp filters in parallel would be one way to do it.  The thing I don't like about that approach is that if a coil or the wiring in one of the filters fails with an open condition, there would be no immediate indication of the failure.  The remaining coils would then be left to carry a larger load than they are rated for, possibly causing them to over heat and become a potential fire hazard.
 
You definitely need to keep the filter components dry and protected from weather.  Don't want any rain or snow getting on them.  The coil will dissipate a few watts of heat, and that should take care of normal amounts of humidity that is in the air.
 
You could locate the filter either by the compressor or in the attic, if that is easier, as long as it is somewhere in the line so that it prevents noise from getting back to the other circuits in the house.

Unfortunately, this is somewhat to be expected with today's variable speed motors in both pool pumps and HVAC.  Your questions are beyond my level of expertise, but wishing you luck.

Thanks for the help and advice.
 
They recommended a 12-15 mfd capacitor.   I found a 25 mfd motor cap on Amazon and it will hopefully be close enough.
 
I am using two SA phase couplers and the signal is great.   I get 30-50 signal without the phase coupler.   50-70 signal with it.
 
I played with the system yesterday and am now more confused then ever.   The noise is intermittent, and it appears that it is coming from both the variable speed fan and the variable speed compressor.   However, it is not so easy to determine because it is not possible to run the compressor without the fan.   Also, the noise varies a lot depending on speed.  
 
I am sure that I could get rid of all of the noise with some very large filter devices on both the fan and the compressor.     I am not so happy with that option, but don't see a lot of other options.

If you are using a motor capacitor, make sure it is a "run" capacitor and not a "start" capacitor, as start capacitors are not rated for continuous duty.
 
A 12-15 uF capacitor will lower the cut off frequency to 1200-1500 Hz, which is fine.
 
I don't know of any other way to remove or isolate the noise other than a filter.  This is one of those cases where you are kind of on your own, with no up front guarantee that this will fix the problem.
 
When you say the variable speed fan also causes noise, is this the outdoor fan, or the inside air handler fan?   On my Carrier heat pump, these are on separate circuits, so I'm wondering if you would need filters for each.

One other thought... it might be worth contacting the technical support folks at Lennox to see if they have any suggestions or solutions.  It's possible they are aware that their system generates electrical noise and they might have some thoughts on the best way to get rid of it.
 
I found a ham radio related thread that complains of radio frequency interference from Lennox systems, and it sounds like Lennox has a fix for that.  Wondering if it might also take care of your power line interference.

Thanks RAL, that ham radio thread is a great find.   I will give Lennox a call.
 
Also, I was not aware of the difference between a run and start capacitor. 
 
In response to your question, it appears that I have noise from the air handler and from the outdoor compressor unit.   I have 2 separate units, therefore, I will need 4 filters total.  
 
The outdoor units are 50 amps and 30 amps.    The indoor units are 50 amps and 90 amps.   The high amperage on the indoor units is because they have backup electric resistance heating coils.   I know that the AHU fan motor is a small part of the load, so I would need to isolate the fan wiring and put a filter on just the fan.  
 
I am hoping that Lennox has an elegant solution.