Old Stock Hai RC-100B? Drop in replacement?

Peachey

New Member
We have a lot of thunderstorms where I live. In spite of some truly heroic surge suppressors on the whole house and laying in a supply of replacements, I just lost an RC-100B and have no more replacements, so I'm down to negative one thermostats.
 
I know I can go find and replace with something else, reworking the system as I find  bugs, but at this point in my life, I don't want to spend a week relearning the system.,
 
So  - IS THERE ANY PLACE TO FIND OLD STOCK UNITS, OR DIRECT PLUG IN REPLACEMENTS???
 
Heeelllp....
 
Leviton/HAI repair service is usually very reasonable. You're best to email or call and get your RMA. They'll send you a quote if it's more than the initial fee. I had an OmniStat I ordered off eBay that acted up replaced that way.
 
I can't help on the replacement, but protecting the thermostat from Lightning is pretty easy. Just get a MOV device and place it across the power supply terminals of the thermostat, I think terminals 1 & 2.  Just get a MOV device (Metal Oxide Varistor) rated at 25V AC.  Just make sure you DON'T use one rated for 25V DC. I know you said you have them on your house, but that is a different matter. You want one right AT the thermostat.  Something like this might work: http://www.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=0virtualkey0virtualkeyV14E25P
Just look for a relatively high surge current. This part is something like $0.86 plus postage.
 
Thanks for the support, especially cocoonut.
 
I'm an EE by trade, power supply designer by experience, and I've been busying myself designing a power protection front end for a replacement - if i can find one.  As some background, I've been able to crudely trace the insides of the various corpses. Of the several I've had die across the years, all but one were with visible charring on the incoming power supply section. The input of 24VAC nominal power comes off the two prongs of the connector, runs right to what is almost certainly a surface mount MOV or TVS clamp, then right into a four-diode full wave bridge rectifer, and then into the filter caps that make DC for the microprocessor that runs things and the various relays and such.
 
The charred components included the MOVs and diodes a couple of times, and some times just one or the other. Even the un-charred components were either fully shorted or fully opened even in the cases where there was no PCB charring. Re-building the power parts of the PCB with new MOV, diodes, filter caps and regulator for the microprocessor did not revive the corpses I tried this on.I suspect that the controller was fried, which you'd expect if its regulator died.
 
So yeah, a MOV. Big sucker, probably recessed into the wall. I am also qualified to kibitz with HAI's power supply design. Looks like the fuse they put in the power path is AFTER the MOV on the board, so frying the MOV then fries the rectifier diodes without opening the fuse. The fuse was opened only in the one case where the lighting stroke also shorted the 24VAC control transformer from primary to secondary. That was  before the house surge suppressors.
 
My current (!!) thoughts on a front end for this includes some inductance on both the incoming leads to the 'stat, then a fuse in each line, then a big-sucker MOV, Maybe even a TVS clamp to a dedicated safety-ground wire just ahead of the 'stat power connector.
 
You have to be careful with MOVs. MOVs lose a little bit of their "break over" voltage each time they are broken over and clamp overvoltage. How much they lose depends on how much heat is generated in the MOV during the transient. The original AC power line MOVs were rated at 130VAC. they would sustain some hits, their voltage would drift down until little blips up on the AC power line would trip them, then they'd drift down more, and finally, when the MOV started breaking over at normal AC line peaks, they would rapidly overheat and die, sometimes spectacularly. This discovery led to the idea that you never use a MOV without a current limiting device, like a fuse, ahead of it on the AC power line.
 
It's accepted practice to NOT use MOVs less than 150Vac on normal AC power line applications for this reason. On a nominal "24Vac" control line, the actual AC voltage is often 28Vac-30Vac if they're lightly loaded. By the time you add onto that AC line surges, you probably need a 45-50V MOV on the output of the control transformer to keep the MOV from dying soon.  TVS devices may or may not have a similar vulnerability. I'm in the process of refreshing myself on them.
 
In any case, I really do want to find a plug-in replacement if I can. I'd like to keep the re-building the world to a minimum.:) 
 
I just looked on Ebay and see a couple of the RC-100's for sale with one around $50.00.  Contact seller and offer him $25 for it.
 
Here had a hot spare RC-80 (switched over to the OmniStat2 here)  which I gave away a couple of years back.  \
 
Then last year somebody sent me one gratis. 
 
A couple of days ago hooked up the gratis RC-80 to check it out and noticed that while it works it doesn't talk to my OmniPro 2 panel.
 
I did see for a short second a remote indication; then didn't see it any more. 
 
This device was definitely tinkered with as it had a piece of aluminum foil were the fuse should be.
 
pete_c said:
I just looked on Ebay and see a couple of the RC-100's for sale with one around $50.00.  Contact seller and offer him $25 for it.
Dang. Missed those. There are a pair of RC-80s there, which doesn't help much.
 
Yeah only saw two of the RC-100's on Ebay. 
 
Here updated my RC-80 to an Omnistat2.  Wire colors and markings on the Omnistat2 are identical to that of the RC-80.
 
 
Here is a drawing for the RC-100 wiring.
 
RC-100.jpg
 
It's the same for you.  Here is a drawing for the connectivity of an Omnistat2.
 
omnistat2.jpg
 
and
 
Installation manual for the Omnistat2
 
A CT forum user is selling an Omnistat 2 RC-2000 in the for sale section here on the forum described as brand new never used. 
 
This led me into researching the wiring, and that led me into wondering whether the RC-100's five relays actually isolate the circuits of the RC-100 from the 24Vac if you discount the 24Vac that makes the DC to drive the circuits themselves.
 
If they do, or can be made to do so with some cuts/adds, the RC100 could be immune to the conditions that need that 29A001 power isolator board.
 
Yeah here purchased the HAI 29A001 thermostat isolation board with the RC-80 many many years ago. 
 
Originally the RC-80 had been popping the fuse on the HVAC motherboard and tried using the common wire then went to the HAI 30A00-2 Thermostat Power Supply Module which didn't work for me.
 
Finally to the HAI 29A001 board which has remained running fine.  I just left it in place when updating to the Omnistat2.
 
Over the years have had a centralized humidifier, air cleaner and zoned HVAC (well in the 80's).  Being a bit picky here put temperature and humidity sensors in every room of the house (using 1-wire) and added a few HAI temperature and temperature / humidity sensors.  Many automators went to measuring the functioning HVAC devices in their homes.
 
Like automation though every HVAC company involved in doing this is doing their own thing and pretty much telling their clients their way is the best way which segments any common base of HVAC in your typical home today.  IE: most GC's today will put in a system with 50 year old technology because it is cheap and easy and they basically know of nothing else.  Old friend here just went to sub contracting / doing stuff on his own for a new home build circumventing what the GC didn't know (zoned HVAC, hot water heating, et al).  Well what was nice is that the GC let him do this as typically this doesn't happen.
 
This is way beyond the use of simple thermostat with a bit of eye candy which is really what most folks want today (and connectivity to their cell phone).
 
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