NX-216E on an Interlogix NX-6V2

So the last thing I'm adding to my panel is one NX-216E to my NX-6V2; I've already added the NX-584E and NX-595E.
 
Currently two garage doors, an entry garage door, all of the windows, a front door, a backdoor and three French doors are all on six zones.  I've counted 22 wire pairs that makeup the zones; some zones have a single wire pair whereas other zones have many pairs.  So I should be able to put one wire pair per zone since I will now have 22 zones (not including the two on the NX-595E.)  It looks like I need to put a 3.3k resistor on all of the connection; does it matter if it goes to the COM (common) or the zone input?  I will also need to set the zone type for each zone.
 
Any other pointers?

Ideally, you should place the EOL resistor on the common wire, right at the last contact (if there is more than one) in the daisy chain.  If you place it on the positive (zone input) side, or some distance away from the last contact on the common side, you will lose some supervision coverage of  conditions that the EOL allows the panel to detect.

Interesting.  I'm not sure what they did when they installed the panel but I see a lot of crimp connectors with a resistor on them.  Some zones I do not see any at all and others I see two resistors and two wires to the same screw contact.  I was also thinking of using solder to attach the resistor to the wire.  The panel is a mess; obviously they did the quick and easy job and I know there are some loose wires.  I moved the cables slightly and the panel wasn't happy until I moved the cables again.  Another reason why I decided to go with the NX-216E board.  If I need to go through and find loose wires, might as well as re-do the entire thing and do it right.  I also have another cabinet coming and I plan on putting the second cabinet next to the first and then put the NX-584E and NX-595E in it.  This way the main cabinet has the main panel, NX-216E, battery and the wires to the contact.  To the second cabinet I will have one 7 conductor 18 AWG wire cable to connect to the Pos, Com and Data terminals on each board; so all but one conductor will be used.
 
I guess I will pull the config for what zone type each zone is configured for; I think I remember see that out of all of the possible types the same three types were selected; entry exit delay 1, entry/exit delay 2 and then immediate alarm which would be for windows.  I will then just move the the wires off the zone I don't want them on (shared) to a dedicated zone, set the zone type and see what it shows.  I was thinking that most of the windows (if not all) will be on the NX-216E, so I could just use the NX-595E and the DLX900 software to just go through and set all 16 zones to what windows would be.  If I move a door over I'll just need to go and change it to one of the entry/exit delays.
 
The good news, the majority of the cables (if not all) have a handwritten description of what they are for.  When I'm done I'll have an Excel spreadsheet of what each zone is for.  Then I can put labels into the NX-595E and my Indigo HA system.
 
I appreciate the assistance RAL.

lanbrown said:

Interesting.  I'm not sure what they did when they installed the panel but I see a lot of crimp connectors with a resistor on them.  Some zones I do not see any at all and others I see two resistors and two wires to the same screw contact.

Click to expand...

 
 
Are you seeing the resistors with the crimp connectors at the panel end?   If so, they are not really doing any good there, other than to make the panel happy that there is an EOL resistor in the circuit.  I'm not certain, but I thought you can configure the NX6e to operate with or without EOL resistors, except on the fire zones  If so, you might as well leave the EOLs out and simplify the wiring.
 
Soldering the connections gives a good, solid connection.  Crimp connectors are ok, too, if properly crimped.  You can get a poor connection  with too much pressure as well as too little. 

The documentation for the NX-216E is rather lacking all they mention are the NX-8 variants.  I did put the module in and it only shows 8 additional zones and not 16 more.  So don't know what to do there.  I did make sure that all six dip switches are off; so that means that it should start at 17 and all 16 zones are enabled (dip switch 6 disables 8 zones).  The last zone I see ends at 16.  So what the documentation says and what my panel shows are not the same.
 

Date Time Partition Event Description
Oct  12,2018 7:41:00 PM System Start download
Oct  12,2018 7:42:00 PM System *  Enrolled device Device 22
Oct  12,2018 7:42:00 PM System *  Enrolled device Device 72
Oct  12,2018 7:42:00 PM System *  Enrolled device Device 191
Oct  12,2018 7:42:00 PM System *  Enrolled device Device 192
Oct  12,2018 7:42:00 PM System *  Enrolled device Device 200

Click to expand...

 
Device 22 is the 16 zone expander.  Right now it shows zones 9 to 16 as not ready; so these are the new zones on the new module.  I even tried setting dip switch 2 to on and power cycled the entire system since the expander only reads the dip switches at a power on.
 
Yes, I'm seeing some resistors at the panel side of things.

In the NX216-E manual I have, it shows that if you set the 6 DIP switches all Off, then it will be enrolled as device 22 (which is what you show) and the zones will be numbered from 1-16.  I think you're seeing only 8 additional zones because the first 8 zones on the NX216-E are overlapped with the panel's zones 1-8.  Try setting Switch 1 to On, which should make it device 23, and change the zone range to 9 through 24.
 
I'm guessing that the NX6v2 manual has a typo in the DIP switch table for the first row (all off) and the starting zone number should show 1 rather than 9.

I just tried that and it still only went to zone 16.  The device did go to device 23 so I had to go to enroll device in the DLX900 for it to show as it was still complaining about the loss of the expander.  I then changed them all to off again but then switch 3 to on and power cycled the panel again.  After I enrolled devices again, it now shows as device 18 but still just zones 1 through 16.  It says that all are ready as well even though nothing is plugged into them.
 
Could this board be bad?  In one of the previous settings at least the last 8 zones showed as not ready.  Do the zones need to be sequential or are gaps allowed?

Ral,
 
I think this might be the reason:
https://static.interlogix.com/library/I-NX6V2-IM%20Rev%20C%20Installation%20Manual.pdf
 

Product overview The NX-6V2 Control Panel is a residential security and alarm system and provides the following features: • Sophisticated software allowing up to 40 users to interface with up to 16 zones and two partitions.

Click to expand...

 
So 16 zones and two partitions.
 
whereas the NX-8v2:
https://static.interlogix.com/library/I-NX8V2-IM%20REV%20H%20Installation%20Manual.pdf
 

The NX-8V2 Control Panel is a residential security and alarm system and provides the following features: • Sophisticated software allowing up to 99 users to interface with up to 48 zones and eight partitions.

Click to expand...

 
The NX-8E:

The NX-8E Control Panel is a residential security and alarm system and provides the following features: • Sophisticated software allowing up to 240 users to interface with up to 192 zones and eight partitions.

Click to expand...

I was just about to post the same thing.  My familiarity with the NX panels comes from the NX8 family.  I was digging more into the NX6v2 manual and it looks like the NX6v2 is knee capped at a maximum of 16 zones.

I'll just need to buy an NX-8E panel then.  Too bad I bought the NX-584E module.  I guess I'll just have two serial ports in the new setup.  Too bad I also bought another cabinet as well since a new panel has the cabinet with it.  I don't think I'll be buying a used or a panel that is not new in the box.  Given how you can't get access to firmware, might as well as buy the latest revision and firmware.
 
Weird that they at least didn't let the NX-6V2 go to 22 zones.  What is the point of a 16 zone module when only half of the zones are usable?  I saw somewhere where they listed the NX-4V2 as compatible with the expander as well.  I wonder how that works as surely the NX-4V2 is even more limited.  I just read that it has a maximum of 8 zones; so if you use the module you get 1/4 of what it is capable of.
 
Thanks for your help RAL.

Just another thought, if this were me (and again this is just my opinion) I would not open up/pull out existing door and window contacts just to install an EOL resistor (provided they check OK with the existing wiring when testing resistance and leakage... see my Security How-To for details).

I installed a Caddx NX8E a dozen years ago on a previous house and they do have an option to use the full voltage swing without an EOL resistor. Granted you will not have advantages that supervise the cable but again in my opinion this really isn't needed if the cable is installed in the drywall properly and you know better than to just blindly drive nails into your walls.

Another point I would like to bring up is although the NX8E is a very capable panel, it is very dated. I found the DL900 software to be very user unfriendly and replaced this system with an Elk M1-Gold. Look into the total costs and see if this would be worthwhile to consider upgrading the entire system.

I did think about replacing the panel before.  Now that I have even more in it (NX-584E, NX-595E and now also the NX-216E) I don't think I'll be swapping the panel out.  It is essentially being controlled by the HA system (which also has a plugin for the Elk M1 as well) so the added capabilities of the Elk won't be used.
 
I won't be tearing out drywall and for all I know, there are resistors on the last contact.  I'll take a look your Security How To.  I know that I should be able to at least get an NX-8E running to replace the NX-6V2.  No matter what they did wiring wise, I should be able to replicate that on the NX-8E and still be able to split things out.
 
I did use the DLX900 app and pulled the following:
Zone 1 Type 3
Zone 2 Type 9
Zone 3 Type 6
Zone 4 Type 6
Zone 5 Type 6
Zone 6 Type 6
 
 
Zone type 3:
Event code 7
Delay 1
Keypad audible
Yelping siren
Chime
Bypassable
Dialer delay
Swinger zone
Restore report
Listen-in
 
Zone type 6:
Event code 4
Keypad audible
Yelping siren
Chime
Bypassable
Dialer delay
Swinger zone
Restore report
Listne-in
 
Zone type 9:
Event code 7
Delay 2
Keypad audible
Yelping siren
Chime
Bypassable
Dialer delay
Swinger zone
Restore report
Listen-in
 
The resistor defeat is not enabled on any of the zone types.

I think the most straightforward thing to do would be to upgrade from the NX6v2 to an NX8e.  That will get you to a full 24 zones.  Then sell the old board and 584e on eBay to recover some of your costs.

Looking at the documentation, it looks like the max serial speed on the onboard port of the NX-8E is slower than the NX-584E.  It plugs into a Perle IOLAN serial to Ethernet converter.  I'll probably just keep the NX-584E because of the max serial speed and if you need to buy the serial cable for the NX-8E which runs $20 to $30; which is what I paid for the module itself.
 
I'll be ordering the NX-8E this weekend and hopefully have it by next weekend.
 
I also have the NX-588E so I should be able to write the panel config ahead of time and then just upload it when it is installed.  I should have the second cabinet before next weekend as well.  So I can get it setup for the other two modules and the Perle IOLAN.
 
I appreciate all of the assistance.

Just to update; after purchasing a new panel and it never arrived; I emailed, called them twice and left one VM but never heard anything.  So then I had to file a chargeback and well, they never heard a response either.  The company was Surveillent, LLC. in St. Paul, MN.
 
So I then purchased a panel from another vendor and I got it a few weeks ago.  I bought a spare power supply and used it to install a basic config on it that matched the NX-6V2 that I'm replacing.  I also decided to install a second cabinet since one cabinet things were getting a bit crowded with the panel, the wiring, three modules and a battery.
 
In the main cabinet is the NX-8E panel and the NX-216E 16 zone expansion module along with the battery and all of the wiring for the doors and windows.  While the new cabinet was off of the wall, I put the posts in it for the NX-216E and then did the wiring from the panel to it.
 
In the second cabinet is the NX-595E Ethernet module and the NX-584E serial board.  While I could have used the onboard serial port of the NX-8E, I'd have to buy a $30 cable and well, I already had the serial board.  Plus the serial board supports faster baud rates.  I ran thermostat wire that was seven conductors between the two cabinets.  Each module takes three conductors; Pos, Com and Data.  So all but one conductor was used between the two modules.  The seventh will be used to ground the second cabinet to the panel since it has a ground on it.  Also in this cabinet is the serial to Ethernet adapter for my HA system.
 
What I have left to do is is split out the existing wiring into individual zones.  Zone 6 on the panel has almost everything on it.  Run a new shielded power cable from the attic to the panel.  Both the transformer and the shielded power cable has a ground; so this will ground the panel.  Also I need to get the Ethernet cabling down from the attic to the NX-595E and the serial to Ethernet adapter.  I also need to get a 1/2" conduit to go between the cabinets.  What I had on hand was either too short or too long.  After this is done I can clean the wiring up to make it look good.
 
I also have a new keypad coming that shows 24 zones since the current one only shows 8.  The other keypad is a touchscreen so it doesn't have that limitation.
 
This is what it currently looks like:
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