Hey everyone, I've been living in this new house for a while and one of my recent projects has been trying to get the old Omni IIe board working with the house phones. Now I have my questions about the wiring outside of the controller, but one of my first concerns is the phone LED remaining on even when the telephone spade cables are removed from the board. Even after a restart with the telephone cables unplugged from the board the phone LED turns right back on with the system. Is there anything I can do on the consoles to get the Omni IIe to reset itself so it stops seeing a non-existent phone line?
Omni IIe Phone LED stuck on; phone access not working.
- Thread starter Donut
- Start date
Yes, there's an arrester where the line comes into the house. After a hard reset, the phone LED remained on. When you pick-up the phone, get a dial tone, and then connect the Omni IIe phone line, it abruptly drops the dial tone.
So, I called Leviton to have them troubleshoot with me. Hard resetting (remove the 24v power brick and the battery, let sit for a half-hour) did not fix the problem. The phone LED remained on, and (again) connecting to the telco dropped the line. Measuring the impedance on the red/green revealed the problem: almost a dead short.
Leviton repairs these boards, and you can buy new ones (a bit amazing that 10+year technology is still manufactured as "new") on Amazon for $699 (cheaper than anywhere I was able to find) and delivered in a day.
Take care to map the connections EXACTLY. Also, note that a replacement board may have the jumpers set differently. My advice: take pictures first, then label EVERY connection. Several are bunched together, and for those put a small nylon tie on them.
Before you start the process, download ALL your settings. Once you've done that, and installed the new board, connect the software (serial, default code is 1111 or network by using one of the keypads to enter the IP, Port, and encryption keys). Reload the system, and you're back in business.
Hope this helps others.
So, I called Leviton to have them troubleshoot with me. Hard resetting (remove the 24v power brick and the battery, let sit for a half-hour) did not fix the problem. The phone LED remained on, and (again) connecting to the telco dropped the line. Measuring the impedance on the red/green revealed the problem: almost a dead short.
Leviton repairs these boards, and you can buy new ones (a bit amazing that 10+year technology is still manufactured as "new") on Amazon for $699 (cheaper than anywhere I was able to find) and delivered in a day.
Take care to map the connections EXACTLY. Also, note that a replacement board may have the jumpers set differently. My advice: take pictures first, then label EVERY connection. Several are bunched together, and for those put a small nylon tie on them.
Before you start the process, download ALL your settings. Once you've done that, and installed the new board, connect the software (serial, default code is 1111 or network by using one of the keypads to enter the IP, Port, and encryption keys). Reload the system, and you're back in business.
Hope this helps others.
Note that the terminal strips with the screws actually pull-off the board without you having to remove the wires from the screws. With all power off, a screw driver can pry up each, and they pop-off. Do the same for the new board, then the terminal bars just press back in. Its pretty nifty actually and saves you some work.codyshive said:
One more thing, BEFORE disconnecting the old panel, make sure you do a full backup with PC Access DEALER version. Then when you get the new one installed, install the software in the panel. Doing all this manually is lots of work. PC Access can save you lots of work.
Yes, that's right. Those terminal strips do come off, but invariably (even for me), a wires may pull loose or break. I like knowing where everything was before I begin, just in case. Plus, those terminal strips take some practice.
But, thanks for noting it. For folks doing this for the first time, you might want to bench-try removing the strips so you get good at it on a level surface.
I did receive a **new** board from a seller on Amazon; however I suspect it's a refurbished one. It was also defective with a zone that fluctuated wildly and possibly other issues with the board (setting the bad zone to Auxiliary still resulted i a keypad beep that occurred over 8 hours after being set and working fine for the day).
But, thanks for noting it. For folks doing this for the first time, you might want to bench-try removing the strips so you get good at it on a level surface.
I did receive a **new** board from a seller on Amazon; however I suspect it's a refurbished one. It was also defective with a zone that fluctuated wildly and possibly other issues with the board (setting the bad zone to Auxiliary still resulted i a keypad beep that occurred over 8 hours after being set and working fine for the day).
pete_c
Guru
I did receive a **new** board from a seller on Amazon; however I suspect it's a refurbished one. It was also defective with a zone that fluctuated wildly and possibly other issues with the board (setting the bad zone to Auxiliary still resulted i a keypad beep that occurred over 8 hours after being set and working fine for the day).
Did you return this board to the seller on Amazon for a replacement?
Personally I would have sent the original board to Leviton for repair.
Did you return this board to the seller on Amazon for a replacement?
Personally I would have sent the original board to Leviton for repair.
I did return it to Amazon (as it was obviously not new -- still had the prior owner's location information and programming in it), and I have sent the original board back to Leviton for repair. In the meantime, I found a used board on eBay I'm using now. It all came down to time; I needed a replacement immediately.
I'm happy this resource is available. It's good to have others to bounce ideas off of. Thanks for the interest and recommendations.
I'm happy this resource is available. It's good to have others to bounce ideas off of. Thanks for the interest and recommendations.
