Thanks to everyone for the suggestions.
As a newbie to the forum I can only post once per day until I have my 3 approved posts.
This is my 3rd post so I should be able to respond tomorrow in a more timely manner.
Funny I am also getting false triggers on a number of contacts I just added in the Fall. Fortunately they are only used as Chime alerts so not urgent to resolve but I am assuming they are a combination of voltage and loop resistance that put the zones right at the edge of triggering. My strategy is to troubleshoot is:
1 Check my voltages and probably refresh the batteries as RAL suggests.
2 Check the current draw on the main and auxiliary power supplies to make sure I have not added too much stuff. I also added 2 keypads in the Fall so extra current plus a few volts of utility power sag could be putting me over the threshold.
3 Measure my loop restance on the loops that false and see how close they are to spec. These loops are on Cat5 cable for a long part of their run and doubling up the pairs might drop the loop resistance enough to stop the false triggers.
One thing I noted is that I will get several false triggers in a short period of time and then nothing for many days which is why I think it is a voltage/loop resistance issue. Maybe similiar to what you are seeing?
@upstatemike.....Thanks for your suggestions and my apologies for not responding to your suggestions.
As noted in my post the battery voltages and transformer output appear normal.
Well, you've eliminated the easy causes. Your voltages look like they are ok.
Are you running the latest firmware level on the M1 (5.3.10)?
Yes, firmware is 5.3.10
The next thing to do is follow @upstatemike's suggestions.
If you haven't done a current draw calculation, you should do one using the Elk spreadsheet to make sure you are not overloading the power supply.
I have never done a current draw calculation and will need to research that.
However, I am wondering what would have changed since installation that I would need to do that now.
It's worth measuring loop resistance, but there could be more to the story, such as intermittent connections. So the resistance might look fine when you do the measurement, but the connection fails at a later time due to vibration, moisture or whatever. Often, loosening and re-tightening the the screw terminals on the M1 zone inputs will clear up a problem. Other possible causes are poor crimp connections or screw terminal connections at the contact, wires that get stretched too tight as a house settles, or rodents nibbling on the wires somewhere in between.
Will check this and let you know.
So far, you've had false alarms on different zones. If any of them start to repeat on the same zone, then another thing to try is swapping the zone with another one. That can help narrow the problem down to whether it is a problem with the wiring or the M1 (or zone expander) itself. If the false alarm moves to the new zone, then that's a pretty good indication that the wiring or contact is the cause.
Will check this and let you know.
More low hanging fruit to pick:
Lightly tug on wiring in the panel. Gently tap on the sensor. See if any of that trip the system.
The resistance check suggested by Ral and upstatemike makes sense (I'll third that suggestion). Make sure you check for leakage with the window/door open as well and not just contact resistance (if you need help with that let me know).
Will need to check and get back to you.
Are these sensors wired to the main board or an expansion panel?
1 on main board and 1 on expansion
Do the false alarms come at a time of high heat or very cold temperatures?
Alarms happen between 2 AM and 4 AM.
First alarm in November the high during the day was 19 celsius and dropped to minus 1.3 celsius during the time of the alarm.
February the low was minus 10.3 celsius and March minus 17.9 celsius.
Normal temps for this location (London Ontario Canada)
What is your gap distance the window can be away from the magnet on these sensors? Does this trip during very windy days? Rattle the door and window and see if that trips the system.
It's been a loooooong time since I had an Elk at my old house but isn't there a menu where you can see actual voltage levels on inputs? What is yours reading tripped/untripped?
Voltage on Kitchen window showed 0.2 volts untripped and 13.7 tripped. After opening the window, cleaning the contact and reconnecting sensor wires I couldn't get the window to arm. Looks like the sensor is fine (placed a spare magnet on sensor and was able to arm).
Will need to reposition the contact.
Great room window sensor shows 0.0 volts untripped and 13.7 volts tripped.
Will investigate further and get back to you.