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ELK Configuration....


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#31 BraveSirRobbin

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Posted 13 February 2007 - 08:12 PM

Hmmm, if it was me here is what I would do.

Remove the cable going to the Elk relay from the button's terminals. Take a piece of wire and momentarily touch (short) the two terminals on the button together and see if the garage door opens, then do again to make sure it closes. This will verify that a temp short is required for opening and closing.

Then I would take a meter and measure the resistance between your two wires going from the Elk Relay (cable still disconnected from the garage door button terminals). You should see infinite resistance.

Then with the meter still connected to those wires, run your rule and make sure the resistance is near zero (less than three ohms or so) and then goes back to infinite resistance. You may have to extend your time to more than just a second to get this reading on your meter.

I'm thinking the relay is not opening properly or a short/leakage exists somewhere in the cable.

#32 BraveSirRobbin

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Posted 15 February 2007 - 03:51 PM

ctwilliams;

Any luck? Need some help? :)

#33 ctwilliams

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Posted 15 February 2007 - 04:06 PM

I just had my work hours adjusted for me and have not had time to look at it again. I will get a chance to work on it this weekend.

The only thing I can add at this point is that if I just touch my two wires together the doors do open and close without problem and it does not effect the wall control.

There is a small led on the wall control that lights up to show power is on. When I hook it up to the elk output door, that light goes out and i loose all functionality of the wall switch.

I will do the measurements this weekend and see what I can figure out.

Thanks to everyone for all of the help!!

#34 WayneW

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Posted 15 February 2007 - 04:36 PM

There is a small led on the wall control that lights up to show power is on. When I hook it up to the elk output door, that light goes out and i loose all functionality of the wall switch.

That is a major clue that something ain't right. The Elk relay should not be shutting down the LED. Follow BSR's instructions when you can and we will be glad to help further.

I would suspect that your wiring to the OVR is wrong, but I am confused because the Elk CAN control the door, which implies it is correct. Can you provide more details or a picture on how you have it hooked to the OVR?

#35 ctwilliams

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Posted 18 February 2007 - 08:11 PM

There is a small led on the wall control that lights up to show power is on. When I hook it up to the elk output door, that light goes out and i loose all functionality of the wall switch.

That is a major clue that something ain't right. The Elk relay should not be shutting down the LED. Follow BSR's instructions when you can and we will be glad to help further.

I would suspect that your wiring to the OVR is wrong, but I am confused because the Elk CAN control the door, which implies it is correct. Can you provide more details or a picture on how you have it hooked to the OVR?


OOPS, I post with my tail between my legs.

For whatever the reason, I had wired to the NC instead of the NO on the Elk output board. It was clearly marked but I managed to do it anyway.

I switched it and, of course, everything works.

Thanks for all of the help supplied on here, I will endeavor to be less dumb in the future!

#36 nov0798

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Posted 26 October 2008 - 12:58 AM

HMMM, interesting post, and here is why. I too hooked up my garage door to my M1 tonight and used the NO side of output 3. I then set the relay to close for 1 second and then release. I have a Craftsman GDO and when you short the wires on the wall control, the opener works in both directions, with no problems. When I wired the M1 directly to the openers circuit board (screw terminals) it works one time, and then the wall unit gos dead and there is no voltage on the openers terminals. I then have to unplug the opener for several minutes before the wall unit will work again. The unit uses 3 terminals. one terminal goes to the wall unit +, the other terminal goes to the optical sensors +, and the third terminal is a common negative for both. The voltage across the wall unit terminal and common is 22vdc, the voltage across the photo sensor units is 6vdc. Does anyone know why this does this? Im lost! I can short the wires at the wall unit over and over with no problem, but when I use the M1 to essentially short then using a relay the unit shuts down and doesnt work until it is reset.

#37 Spanky

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Posted 26 October 2008 - 07:49 AM

Momentarily short the two wires from the wall unit that go over to the M1 to see if the opener works by shorting the wires. If that works properly, I recommend that you lengthen the contact closure time in the M1 Rule from one second to 2 or 3 seconds. Make sure you have no voltage on the common and normally open terminals on the M1's output 3 relay before connecting the wall unit wires.

Edited by Spanky, 26 October 2008 - 07:50 AM.


#38 nov0798

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Posted 26 October 2008 - 09:41 AM

Spanky,
I have done this. I can short the wall unit, over and over with no problem. How would I get voltage across output 3 out of the board? Is there voltage out of this thing? It was my understanding that it was just a relay. I definately think Im gonna just buy a remote and hook it up like BSR. This way I only trash a 20 dollar remote, instead of a 200 dollar opener.

#39 BraveSirRobbin

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Posted 26 October 2008 - 10:34 AM

I'm sure you have the system wired this way, but just to cover all bases, you are using the "NO" and "C" terminals of the relay's outputs correct?

#40 Work2Play

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Posted 26 October 2008 - 01:45 PM

Nov - a bunch of us are doing this with perfect success... You have 2 wires going from the GDO to the M1, right? So - if you unhook those 2 from the M1 and just touch them together, the door opens/closes? And - what if you leave the wires connected for like 2 seconds - anything different? (I'm wondering if it's keeping closed too long). If those scenarios work exactly as expected, then you should be able to hook one to the COM and one to the NO and "Turn output 3 on for 1 second" and get the same behavior.

Nothing wrong with BSR's method of modding the remote, but this is just so simple - I've done it in every house I've ever lived in because prior to the M1, I've always had the garage-door interface for my car alarm which works the same way.

Another weird thing... When I was hooking up my M1XOVR I was getting unexpected results on one of the outputs - no matter how many times/ways I tested continuity across the terminals, it seemed like the relay was just flat out malfunctioning. A little while later I ended up resetting everything and re-checking the wires, and sure enough, when I was done, everything was working perfect, and has ever since. Might be worth some simple continuity checks to make sure things are working as you'd expect on the M1.

#41 nov0798

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Posted 26 October 2008 - 03:21 PM

YEP. NO and C on output 3. When I hook the the M1 directly the door openers terminals it will open and close the door, once only, then the circut goes dead. No 22vdc between the terminals until I "reset" the unit. Doesnt make sense to me.

#42 Work2Play

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Posted 26 October 2008 - 10:05 PM

Could you try disconnecting the control button from the opener and seeing if it shows true continuity or a resistance value?

I tried looking for installation manuals on the newer openers, but didn't have any luck...

#43 nov0798

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Posted 26 October 2008 - 10:57 PM

it shows neither across the terminals of the wall unit.

Edited by nov0798, 26 October 2008 - 10:57 PM.


#44 nov0798

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Posted 27 October 2008 - 12:17 AM

DUH!
Ok I figured it out.
I had written a task to turn on output 3 for 1 second, then release.
This was working, however, I turned on output 3 from the remote phone programming, which left it ON all the time. I got mixed up and turned on an output , instead of activating a task. I guess I was a little confused on the two. I know now that I must control a task wth a rule. I would turn on an output if I needed that to stay on "activated" for awhile, however I must then turn it off.

It all works correctly now!

#45 Work2Play

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Posted 27 October 2008 - 04:22 PM

For those who don't want to use Tasks for everything - here's what I did... I use an output for anything that should only run for one second... it's just one output, and it has a rule attached to it that says "whenever output 206 turns off, turn off out 1, out 2, out 7, and anything else that should only run for one second. Then, for things like the garage output, I have a rule that says whenever output 1 turns on, turn on output 206 for one second.

That essentially turns a few of my outputs into momentary outputs without having to create Tasks for the items.

I'm thinking about adding another one for my sprinklers that puts a 30-minute cap on my sprinklers after I was demoing the system to someone the other day before we all headed off to dinner, and I realized I left one of the sprinkler zones on for 3 hours...




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