Looking for USB controlled relay

Brightan

Member
I'm looking for a relay that I can control through USB that is wired for 110v
control (a couple of amps) with simple on/off but it has to be a complete,
packaged, certified device with an extension cord for plugging in and a
socket for plugging a lamp in. Does anyone know if this exists? If not,
is there a simple USB device with a single output that could drive one of
these http://www.smarthome.com/81301.html
Thanks!
 
Oops, thought the phidgets stuff was certified. I don't think you will find many items matching your requirements unless you look for the industrial grade stuff.
 
Such a thing does not exist,

But the low voltage controlled device you suggested could be controlled by any USB digital outptut module.

Or you could get a USB 'activated' power board and wire it up like this www.emx.net.au/homeautomation.htm

Or, perhaps you could get an OEM type USB relay module (Super4 USB Relay module), it is officially certified (by me).
 
What about an X10 (or alternate new technology) appliance module with a usb controller? It fits the USB and certified requirements and will probably be much cheaper than any industrial solution.
 
its the "certified" part that is causing the problem, I haven't found anything yet.

Why does the final product need to be certified? All relays are certified, that's the part of the product you need to be concerned about. That is the part that is hooked into the high voltage. All the rest of the parts are low voltage (USB is 3.3V and 5V, control circuit is <=5V, relay coil is most likely 5V). Low voltage stuff doesn't need to be certified to be safe. It's HIGH voltage stuff that you need to be worried about.

That's why MOST equipment that uses low voltage uses a wall wart. If you don't, then you need to CERT the product. With the wall wart being certed, you don't need to push your product through the expense of all the electrical safety tests (assuming you are not modifying the wall wart in ANY way).

SO LONG as the relay you are using us safe for 110V, then you are fine.

I would still like to know why it was required to be certed. My thought is that most people who do not work with electricity everyday assumes that the cert means it's safe...which is not true...it just means it passed the test.

Hope that helped to make you feel better about buying from one of the hobby places.

--Dan
 
Dan;

I'm guessing the OP's need for "certification" relates to UL (or similar type certification) listing. If one gets a hobby solution they will need to build a box/device which requires splicing/soldering/crimping wiring/extension cords/sockets etc... Even if one is skilled at building such a device it will not have any UL/CE/etc... certifications.

There are places (such as some work environments) that require a device to be certified/listed in order to use it at their location. We have a similar policy here at some of our areas.
 
Dan;

I'm guessing the OP's need for "certification" relates to UL (or similar type certification) listing. If one gets a hobby solution they will need to build a box/device which requires splicing/soldering/crimping wiring/extension cords/sockets etc... Even if one is skilled at building such a device it will not have any UL/CE/etc... certifications.

There are places (such as some work environments) that require a device to be certified/listed in order to use it at their location. We have a similar policy here at some of our areas.

you answered for me before I had a chance, and in fact, you're right. This was not a home automation project, it was for controlling a light in a commercial office and there was 100's of them and I wanted to make sure in was certified for insurance reasons (it was for the USA after all!). In the end I recommended a hobby USB output board and the Xantech certified relay that I mentioned in the first post and all is good.
But, Dan does bring up a question that I have always wondered about. If you take a certified relay, at what point does it become not certified? If you wire it into a certified box and use certified connectors and certified wire, it is not certified by the time you're done. At what point did it change?
 
I'm not an expert in this subject, but I believe the unit as a whole has to obtain certification. You have to verify there are no wiring frays, connections are properly terminated, etc...

After all, I as a hobbyist could purchase all the "certified" parts to build an airplane in my garage (following a certified instruction listing) but, would you fly in it after I was finished?

We have Cocooners who are more familiar with the certification processes then me that can better answer this question...
 
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