Sensor Magnets

[AceMI]

Hello guys:



Wrapping up my ELK M1G project and I have a couple of quick questions (hopefully


1. All of my windows are the Andersen crank-out / gear driven type. I've not found a way to mount sensors in these and I'm not sure it's even necessary. Someone would lose interest and break the windows long before they were able to pry them open -- and in that case, there's glass breaks and motions in place. Are there sensors for these and are they necessary? (Maybe I'm overlooking the obvious.)

2. I ordered a batch of GE wireless contact sensors, not even thinking about a few of different door types in the home. Two of them have odd jambs that don't leave enough clearance to mount a normal magnet nor would the configuration really permit a wired recessed sensor. My previous home had a DSC system and I remember the installer using wireless sensors with little tiny magnets the size of a dime that just screwed to the door jamb. There is enough clearance for these, but I'll be darned if I can find them. Any idea what they're called or a source?


Thanks very much!!

 

[Sandpiper]

Having sensors on the crank-type of windows does give you a reminder that the window is left open, so that is worth something. But I do agree, for pure security a glass break would be better.

A good source for magnets is KJMagnetics.com. I've used them several times, and service is excellent.

 

[apostolakisl]

Having sensors on the crank-type of windows does give you a reminder that the window is left open, so that is worth something. But I do agree, for pure security a glass break would be better.

A good source for magnets is KJMagnetics.com. I've used them several times, and service is excellent.

I very much agree. For example, my kids had friends over and they left the patio door from the guest room wide open. This isn't really a security issue since it is a balcony. But, had it not been alarmed, we would for sure have birds, squirrels, bats, bugs, and who knows what living in our house, not to mention all of the AC going right out the door.

Also, it is nice to know if a storm is approaching that you actually closed all the doors and windows.

My recollection of crank style Anderson Windows from seeing them at HD (maybe Lowe's, I forget), is that you can alarm them. Using the 3/8 in plug type magnetic contactor drill through the window frame and pull the wires out the back into the stud space.

 

[AceMI]

Ahh that's a good point about window status. Thanks for the tip!

Sandpiper -- perfect! That's what I was looking for. I guess any magnet positioned properly will work then?

Thanks again!

 

[Del91574]

Regular Andersen crank outs, you can remove the trim covering the crank, the wood/vinyl (depending on the window) and install a surface contact/magnet there, eliminates the problem of recessed contacts and leakage.

 

[Sandpiper]

Ahh that's a good point about window status. Thanks for the tip!

Sandpiper -- perfect! That's what I was looking for. I guess any magnet positioned properly will work then?

Thanks again!

Well, I would not say ANY magnet will work, but most any with the proper amount of strength will work if oriented and positioned properly. The magnet does has to be oriented properly to work. Most of the disk magnets (with a hole in the middle which look like a washer) have an magnetic field orientation so that the north pole points vertical from the hole. That is the orientation you want to match up with a recessed contact. Surface contacts expect the orientation to be parallel to the length of the contact. So a washer-type of magnet may not work reliably with a surface contact. You generally need a bar magnet for them.

 

[Del91574]

. Surface contacts expect the orientation to be parallel to the length of the contact. So a washer-type of magnet may not work reliably with a surface contact. You generally need a bar magnet for them.

A surface contact needs to be orientated in an L configuration if the magnet does not run linear to the contact. A T configuration places the magnet away from the sweet spot of the reed. The same generally holds true with most reed switches, surface and recessed in respect to the magnets.

 

[brokencircuit85]

If I may piggy-back on this thread - I have VIP88 sensors, but there are no magnets yet. The prewire company was quite kind to omit the magnets until the system install. :mellow:

Anyway, here's the datasheet for the sensors I have http://www.flairsecurity.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/LMS88.pdf


I'm waiting to hear back from Flair electronics (the manufacturer) as to whether they can sell me just a set of magnets separately or not... If not, what cost-effective surface-mount magnets will do the job? I saw the link up there to K & J magnetics http://www.kjmagnetics.com/products.asp?cat=183 Their Mounting Magnets are what I assume I'd need, but they're pretty expensive.

Thanks!

 

[michelkenny]

If I may piggy-back on this thread - I have VIP88 sensors, but there are no magnets yet. The prewire company was quite kind to omit the magnets until the system install. :mellow:

When I did my house, the pre-wiring crew did the same thing. I just bought extras of a similar type of magnetic contact set just to get the magnets, a few bucks each.

 

[Sandpiper]

If you want pure magnets then K&J can do that. But if you want magnets with a pretty white jacket, then you need to look further. Without researching this, I would say you need to buy a contact/magent set, to be sure to get the proper jacket on the magnet. Look at Parts Express or MCM Electronics. It will be hard to find just the magnets.....

 

[Del91574]

Almost every manufacturer for contacts sell the magnets separately. You should be able to source through a good reseller, if you don't have access to trade distribution.

Barring that, in actuality, a cheap contact set would also be a good donor, since they can be had for >$5 each.

 

[jpmargis]

Here are five for $8.45. Way less than $5 each.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-Magnetic-Door-Window-Contact-Reed-Switch-Alarm-Security-Ademco-Honeywell-GRI-/160743055095#vi-content

 

[dw886]

Regular Andersen crank outs, you can remove the trim covering the crank, the wood/vinyl (depending on the window) and install a surface contact/magnet there, eliminates the problem of recessed contacts and leakage.

Do you happen to have a picture of this? I'm not sure that I completely understand what you're saying, but does this eliminate the need to drill the window frame?