Ultimate Exterior Flood Lights - I want it all

[johngalt]

So I might be over engineering things here.
 
Here is what I want in a flood light.
 

• LED
• Good color temperature (2700k or maybe 3000k)
• Good quality- I try to only go up on a ladder when I really have to

This seems to be easily solved with RAB flood lights and some LED PAR38 bulbs (www.amazon.com/Hyperikon-Dimmable-Equivalent-lumens-Medium/dp/B00RMJZXDQ)
 
Here is where I get a little crazy and need some help.
 

• Ability to turn lights on/off automatically (alarm goes off, dusk/dawn, etc.)
• Motion activated
• High/low capability.  Leave on all night at 10%, but when motion is detected bump up to 100%
• Dimmable- maybe I have a part and want to leave the lights on, but not full blast

 
Right now my system has a RAB Super Stealth with motion detector.  I plan on wiring the light so that the lights get plugged into a dimmable outlet (ZWave, RadioRA2, etc.) in the attic.  The motion detector would be wired to always have power.  Instead of powering the lights I would connect this to a RUBU1C or another relay and feed the 12V signal back to my Elk panel.
 
This way I can turn the light from 0-100% and use the programming logic from Elk.  The motion detectors from RAB are pretty good and this way I can feed detection back into Elk.  I could just use a standard 12V exterior motion detector.  I also have cameras and could use motion detection on the cameras to turn the lights on and off and skip the motion detectors.
 
There are some areas a simple motion security light with dusk sensor will work just fine.  However, other areas it would be nice to have the extra control.
 
Does anyone do this?  Am I completely over engineering this?

 

[mikefamig]

I stay away from that kind of complexity in my house. What is going to happen when you sell the house or if someone else needs to work on that sort of thing? Do I worry too much? Doesn't that worry you?
 
Mike.

 

[johngalt]

I stay away from that kind of complexity in my house. What is going to happen when you sell the house or if someone else needs to work on that sort of thing? Do I worry too much? Doesn't that worry you?
 
Mike.

 
 
Good point.  I do try to keep systems simple and able to be operated independently even if they are integrated.  That way I can remove one and things keep on ticking.
 
Moving is such a pain no matter what, I am not too worried.  I already have RadioRA2 throughout the home.  If the buyers don't want it or aren't willing to pay a premium for it, do I remove them all and replace them with normal dimmers?  That would be a pain too.
 
I could wire it up as normal and then put say a current sensor on the lights so I know when they are on.  That way if that part stops working or I abandon it everything works as "normal."
 
I guess I am not too concerned.  If I knew I was going to move in a year I would be singing a different tune however.

 

[mikefamig]

Good point.  I do try to keep systems simple and able to be operated independently even if they are integrated.  That way I can remove one and things keep on ticking.
 
Moving is such a pain no matter what, I am not too worried.  I already have RadioRA2 throughout the home.  If the buyers don't want it or aren't willing to pay a premium for it, do I remove them all and replace them with normal dimmers?  That would be a pain too.
 
I could wire it up as normal and then put say a current sensor on the lights so I know when they are on.  That way if that part stops working or I abandon it everything works as "normal."
 
I guess I am not too concerned.  If I knew I was going to move in a year I would be singing a different tune however.

 
I mention it because I will be installing an outdoor light soon and have decided which circuit I will be connecting it to but am not decided if it will be switched, motion, or both. I also have a half dozen UPB switches in the house so it may also be automated. Decisions decisions.
 
Mike.

 

[johngalt]

I mention it because I will be installing an outdoor light soon and have decided which circuit I will be connecting it to but am not decided if it will be switched, motion, or both. I also have a half dozen UPB switches in the house so it may also be automated. Decisions decisions.
 
Mike.

 Some outdoor lights can be set to motion and kind of work manually.  If you toggle the switch on and off twice within 3 seconds they will stay on for a certain amount of time or until dawn.    Something like that might work.  You can put a relay in that is normally closed.  When you power the relay you turn the light off.  By toggling the relay twice you could turn the light on manually.  Then if you move you don't need to worry about the relay and it will stay in the normal motion activated mode.
 
Eventually if someone sees all the wiring they will still say "Who in the world did this and why!"

 

[JonW]

I've installed all my outdoor flood & down-lights with standard wall switches, albeit i use UPB switches.  This way they can be locally turned on/off, dimmed etc. and also have that same control remotely.  For motion detection, I use separate detectors that trigger the lights via my OmniPro.  You get all the features you're looking for (with your Elk doing the logic), but you can still replace the switches with normal switches if you ever move.  Sounds like you're over thinking this.

 

[johngalt]

I've installed all my outdoor flood & down-lights with standard wall switches, albeit i use UPB switches.  This way they can be locally turned on/off, dimmed etc. and also have that same control remotely.  For motion detection, I use separate detectors that trigger the lights via my OmniPro.  You get all the features you're looking for (with your Elk doing the logic), but you can still replace the switches with normal switches if you ever move.  Sounds like you're over thinking this.

 
I don't actually have switches is one problem.  The electrician forgot that and thus they are all just hardwired to always be on in the attic.  I could add them if I wanted, but trying to avoid it.
 
What motion detectors do you use?

 

[JonW]

I initially did the same as you.  I had tapped off power in my overhead crawl space, but after a year or so, I didn't like the lack of flexibility in controlling the lights.  Additionally, it's just not good practice to have lighting circuits with no ability to switch the power off.  I've also had some tell me that it is against code - which I did not verify, but wouldn't doubt it.  I went back on mine and added a double gang box in the garage that then fed up into the soffit/crawl space and wired the lights to those switches.  I never use the switches directly, but they're there and nobody will question it when I go to sell.
 
On the motion detectors, I'm still using some really old X-10 brand ones as they just keep on working.  I don't use the X-10 commands, but rather have them setup to trigger a hardwired relay which is closing an input circuit on the OmniPro.  I also have a couple of cameras that trigger the lights as the DVR has digital outs that can trigger on camera activity.  Many of the outdoor motion kits can be used the same way I wired mine.  Instead of powering the lights on when motion is detected, just trigger a relay that feeds to your controller.

 

[Neurorad]

This Winter and Spring I'm turning my attention to outdoor lighting, and have been considering this option.
 
My exterior lights will all be on RA2 dimmers and switches (10 zones, I think, total).  Was considering Optex motion sensors, wired to Elk M1 for conditional logic, with all exterior lighting wired conventionally.  When I move, it's no problem, with conventional control.

 

[pete_c]

Here migrated multiple low voltage lighting (12VDC) to multiple zones of LED lighting.  I have tested LED flood lighting to work really well.
 
One zone played with RGB LED lighting - really not worth it to me.  I do not dim any of the outdoor LED lighting.
 
I used multiple Optex outdoor PIRs / Cameras for after hours sensing and multiple DIN mounted/UPB switched 12VDC MeanWell power supplies (each had two zones).
 
120VAC Coach lighting (doors and garage) was all switched and dimmed via UPB switches.  Used a crystal like clear bulb and never did find anything that looked like that in an LED bulb.

 

[johngalt]

Which Optex sensors do you all use? The LX-402?

 

[pete_c]

I utilize combo Optex PIR  and cameras. 
 
Flood lamps would only come on after hours based on outdoor motion creating a day light effect at 3AM. 
 
Subdivision did not allow any sort of flood lamps to be on regularly.
 
Only saw roaming teens, rabbits and coyotes in the middle of the night.