Wiring help -- "reversing" a 3-way switch setup

[rogersmj]

I have a three-way switched light in my entry way that I'm trying to include in my UPB home automation setup. I want to have a Simply Automated switch (US2-40) by the door, which will enable it to use a faceplate that has a rocker switch and four buttons for triggering scenes. The other switch in this scenario is a "remote", the Simply Automated USR-40A.
 
Here's the problem: the switch location by the door is wired to be the "remote", or "leg end" switch -- it goes up to the light fixture. However, the SA remote switch (USR-40A) cannot accept the faceplate I want to use. The switch location at the other end of the hall (not by the door) is where the load-capable switch is supposed to go, according to the SA diagrams.
 
So, in order to get the load-controlling switch by the door (and thus enable me to use the keypad I want there), I essentially direct-connected the wires through in the "load end" switch box at the end of the hall, and then wired up the load-controlling switch by the door as if it were a standard 2-way switch.
 
This works, at this point.
 
My idea was then to put the "remote" SA switch, the USR-40A, in the original "load end" box at the end of the hallway, and simply add it to my UPB network and have a signal sent to the load-controlling switch by the door whenever it was tapped. Essentially, the idea is to make it a "software" 3-way switch rather than a "hardware" 3 way switch. However, when I connected the black/white wires of the "remote" USR-40A switch into the box (directly twisting them into the black/white lines I had previously connected to make the other switch work), the blue light comes on but nothing else happens. I can't seem to put it in programming mode (5 taps on the upper switch doesn't do anything). I figured if I just gave it power, I could add it to the network.
 
Any ideas? Is this the wrong approach for what I'm trying to do? Thanks!

 

[fcwilt]

Doing three-way (four-way, etc) setups this way is common.
 
Where did you purchase your devices? Are they perhaps defective?

 

[rogersmj]

I think, because of the way these boxes are wired in my house, I need to purchase another full load switch rather than a remote switch. I did get it to work the way I wanted with two load switches, and the secondary one (in the "first" switch box) was able to be programmed the way I expect.
 
I think I can't do it with the devices I initially tried (a load switch and an SA remote switch) because, based on my research, the SA remote switch isn't addressable via UPB. It talks directly to the master switch it's wired to, but that's it. My plan depended on it being addressable via my UPB controller, and it appears that is not the case, which is a little discouraging -- it would be nice to be able to save a little money and get SA switches that are just UPB buttons and don't have to carry a load.

 

[fcwilt]

Sorry I misunderstood, I wasn't reading your part numbers closely.
 
The remote devices control the "master" device via a hardwired connection, no "communication" involved.
 
You can put the remote device at the "non-load" location, the only downside being the LED on the remote no longer indicates the state of the power to the load.

 

[Frunple]

Not sure I'm understanding you right but I'll try.
So where you want the main switch has the 14/2 wire going to the light, and the 14/3 wire from the other box, correct?
That's what it sounds like you are saying. If so, you're all set.
With UPB 3 ways, the main switch controls the load and the remote switch just needs power and 1 traveler to the main.
So wire the main switch by the door controlling the light. Do this by sending the black and white from the other box through to the door box. Sounds like you did this already?
Then send the 'control' wire from the main back to the remote switch using the red in the 14/3.
No need to "program" the remote, it will activate the main switch which UPB will know that the light is on/off.
So if the wiring I described is correct, this will work. If what you have in the door box is just the 14/3 wire, then you will need to run another wire. But remember, the remote switch doesn't control anything and isn't meant to.
Sorry if I misunderstood.

 

[tmbrown97]

Frunple has it right - when you boil it down to what wires you have and where load and power are, 9 out of 10 times you can accomplish what you want by using the old wires to move power where you want it.  Even if you end up with a slave switch on an end with no other power, you can still connect the LED up along with the load wire so it comes on with the load and off without it - and consequently, dims with the light too.  I have a few like that in my house.
 
The alternative for accomplishing your original task is to get another full switch - either 1140 or 240 (depending on if you want the scene faceplate but either way I'd recommend 240's for this purpose due to versatility) and hook it up then program links.  
 
If you haven't read it yet, check out the link in my sig re:UPB - it has some useful info about SA switches and UPB in general.