Recent content by Bzncrewjr

I just created a "House Manual" for either a future buyer of the house or if I drop dead and my wife needs to know how stuff works. She said, "If something happened to you, I wouldn't know how any of this stuff works. She's right. It includes passwords and softwares, where to download...

I don't know if this is new or new to me.   Our landscaper just installed this cool new irrigation controller that is wifi enabled and I can access via their app.   It's pretty cool.    Lot's of controller options.   Can delay watering if forecast is for rain.   Very nice.  ...

I gotta tell you, if it's this hard to get my VRC0P on my Z-wave network and my Omni panel to talk to it, I may abandon the Omni for automation stuffs.   There is a HUGE SmartThings community and it can do so much that the Omni panel once did.   Why should I lunk around the Omni Panel for HA...

Ben lost me here     n SmartThings App Add new device(s) On SmartThings web site (https://graph.api.smartthings.com) First you will need to add a new device type called Accessory Switch (see below) Select My Devices tab Make note of the Device Network ID of your secondary controller you...

Wow!   That is a royal PITA.    I'm trying to find a reason to make it worth it besides the fact that I bought this VRC0P and justify the expense of it with the Omni panel....and some pride.    Honestly, the Smartthings app is super easy to configure for most of what I want.   I originally...

So... SmartThings app seems to see my VRC0P.   At least the discovery found it in the app.    Would it be safe to say the SmartThings hub (primary controller) sent the network info to the VRC0P?    Or am I hoping for a simple life where stuff works easy?   Then...if it did.  How do I find the...

  How?   How do you add the VRC0P a smartthings network and how to make it secondary?   I downloaded batwater's docs and with all due respect, it's totally confusing.   I can't follow it at all.   Is there a simple way to make VRC0P secondary?   I'm really liking the SmartThings hub and app...

Wow!   Nice catch.   I didn't even know there was an aux dimmer.  I bought the aux switch. Perhaps that's why they don't work well.    They do work as illustrated above.   Just not with the dimmer in the middle.   I needed a dimmer for exterior lights to automate on at dusk.   I really don't...

Okay... I'm crying "uncle" on this one.   I've tried the circuit above.  No joy.   Aux switches do nothing and master switch acts weird.   Pressing toggle dims light.  Releasing toggle returns to full brightness. It worked with the first aux with black connected and no 3rd aux.   Master and aux...

Ahh... I see that now.   It says "no LEDs" which I assume means the LED on the remote switch.   That's fine because that switch is in the far garage and probably rarely be used anyway.   Thanks, I'll give it a whirl.   --Russ    

I'll try that.   However the Leviton VP0SR-1L have a black terminal that they seem to want connected to something.    I'll leave it off and see if it works.    

I have: 1 -Leviton DZMX1-1BZ and  2 -  Leviton VP0SR-1L   The installation instructions seem to say that each remote needs both a white neutral and a hot (black) wire and a traveler (red/yellow) wire.   So I'm fine up until the traveler on the last swtich.  I run out of options.   Now I could...

I'm trying to replace a 4-way circuit with 3 Leviton Z-wave switches.   A Master switch and 2 auxiliary switches.   The master controls the load and the other 2 send signals to the master.   I know how to do this if I place the master on the left of the diagram. But that switch is in the garage...

Thanks for this.    I'm fairly comfortable with 120v wiring.   Getting our electrician back here is very difficult.   We have a couple of 3-ways that aren't working and I will probably fix them myself.   The Leviton switches with aux aren't terribly expensive.      The Smart Things/Alexa app is...

Of course the ONE circuit I really want to automate has 3 physical switches.  So that means I need to learn 4-way circuits and I assume how it's wired. Is there a standard electrical code for this sort of thing that I can assume the electrician followed?   I mean, can I just disconnect the RED...