FWIW Both X10 outlet and Appliance Module leak a small sensing current through the load for detection of the load being turned ON locally (think of a table lamp being turned on at the socket switch, telling the module to apply power.) . This sensing current is constant regardless of the ON or...
Could not have expressed it any better. I am not happy with HS2 and may not move on to HS3. To migrate from HS2 to HS3 is almost like starting over anyway.
No. All X10 manufactured relay type modules use the solenoid driven latching relay. The Universal Module is different, but it is low voltage only. The problem with the SR277 is the way the way relay is mounted. FWIW the Appliance Module gatchel suggested and the wall switch WS13A uses the same...
No, you can't have a relay switch or a controller switch without a neutral. At least not unless the switch has a separate power source like batteries. If you have X10 now, you could always use the X10 "Slim Line" switch which is a battery powered "stick on the wall" RF switch.
Agree with BLH your problem may be multiple TM751 trampling on each other, corrupting X10 signal.
http://www.act-remote.com/PCC/PCCInst/cr234_instr.pdf
Back pedaling a bit. I do run three CFLs and one incandescent with a standard two wire X10 dimmer wall switch. The incandescent bulb supplies the required path to neutral for the switch electronics. If the incandescent burns out nothing smokes or overheats since the switch no longer sees a path...
Yes it means you really need to run a neutral, or use a fixture mounted switch where the neutral is available. Any two wire switch will be dimmable and most flourescent fixtures do not like dimmer switches, and most dimmer switches don't like flourescent fixtures with magnetic or electronic...
FWIW
I have X10 (XP3I) inductive dimmer on a $50 Casablanca fan. At full ON the fan does not hum (well maybe I should say it does not hum louder than the fan wind noise on high). Fan motor and switch both hum loud enough to wake you from sleep at 50% speed.
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