Recent content by Quixote

Thanks for clearing that up, Dan! I plan on getting a few sensors myself soon, so I'll be able to mess around with them and get some first hand knowledge on the subject.

I actually drilled a small hole in it where the photosensor was, then I glued a cone in place so that it surrounded the sensor. For the cone I used a piece from a black penholder. I made sure that the length was long enough that the ambient light would not set it off. As I mentioned though, it...

The door strike is installed in the frame. A regular deadbolt cannot be used. I found this out when I ordered a strike in preparation for an RFID entry system project that I wanted to do. If you use a regular deadbolt, the strike will release the deadbolt, but you will then be unable to close...

If you're using a W800 with 1 wire temperature sensors, use Girder. See this thread on the Promixis forum: http://www.promixis.com/forums/showthread....&highlight=wire Have fun!

I tried using the photosensor with a laser pointer and it worked, but it was not fast enough, nor reliable enough. I'd be interested in hearing whether or not your mod works.

It's pretty easy, actually. Create a group called Mapping, (or whatever you want to call it; I call it mapping because I'm basically mapping events) In that group, create a scripting action for each event of the door sensor: one for the event that occurs on open, and one on close. Attach the...

hahaha a fog machine? Did you plan on scaring off the intruders with disco music? I know I would bolt! :) I'll tell you exactly how to set up the scripts when I get back tonight. Just have to make a trip to the hardware store after work -- running some wiring.

I have done that, and it seems quite reliable (100% as far as I know). I use X10 active-eye motion sensors and the X10 door sensors, so to make sure I have reliablity I use lots so I have a redundancy check. That way, if one is triggered then I wait to see if another is triggered in the logical...

I think that UpstateMike ditching Insteon is a sign of the beginning of the end of Insteon. I suspect that they may be having financial difficulties or something since I have heard many stories of people waiting months for their products, and even more of people complaining about performance...

I may end up doing that, but only for the lighting. The rest of my automation (mostly security and HTPC stuff) has to be on my main system, since I can't afford another UPS and all of the other stuff that I would need, plus the media pc is in my living room with the rest of my entertainment...

I can see that there is a wealth of information regarding this problem here. Would any of you more seasoned veterans know of any possible solutions, aside from changing my directX files or unpluging the device? Perhaps there would be a way of patching a file to ignore that "input device"? Sorry...

Actually, I have no joysticks attached to the machine yet. The USB devices that I am using are as follows: -USB-UIRT (infrared device) -ATI Remote Wonder I -Belkin USB Bluetooth Dongle -Z-Board Merc USB Keyboard (no device specific drivers installed) -Logitech G7 Cordless mouse charger &...

I've just discovered (after ripping nearly all of my hair out and throwing my computer out of the window) that all of my problems with my games are not, in fact, due to problem with any of my drivers, or a faulty directx installation. They are caused by my Insteon USB timer. Simply plugging the...

I'm not familiar with that case. All I'm saying is, be prepared to have to do a little modding and investing a little more money than just the buying the case. AFAIK, totally fanless high performance systems are still a mythological creature. BraveSirRobbin was right when he said that there are...

I like gaming, so that wasn't really an option for me. I needed a performance system, but I was tired of listening to the jet-turbine-like noise in my living-room. I've achieved near silence. In fact, the first time I turned on my system (after spending like 4 grand and a month and a half...