Lutron Caseta Question

[upstatemike]

I want to replace some standard switches in a boat house with Caseta smart switches but not sure how to wire some locations. For example the outside lights on the boat house have a switch just inside the door and another switch (wired as a three way) up at the main house so you can turn the lights on from up there to see your way to walk down. The distance is too far to use a Pico from the main house so how would I handle this?
 
I know how to do it with UPB but can't see a way with Caseta. 

 

[wkearney99]

Does Caseta even have an accessory switch? 

I know Ra2 does.  I've got several, two even set up as a 4-way (load and two other door locations).  The wire is used more for signalling than as a traditional n-way multi-switch.  The circuit is wired for that, should I want to use un-automated switches at some point in the future.  This one a great example of Lutron tech support.  The sparky out doing the work had never laid eyes on automated switches (and wasn't the proverbial 'brighest bulb' either).  Tech support walked him through it quickly, in familiar terms.  The electrician was impressed.

It's unfortunately Lutron segments the product lines the way they do.  

 

[vc1234]

I want to replace some standard switches in a boat house with Caseta smart switches but not sure how to wire some locations. For example the outside lights on the boat house have a switch just inside the door and another switch (wired as a three way) up at the main house so you can turn the lights on from up there to see your way to walk down. The distance is too far to use a Pico from the main house so how would I handle this?
 
I know how to do it with UPB but can't see a way with Caseta. 

You can use a caseta switch in combination with the conventional hardwired switch. That’s what I did at my other place and it’s working fine. You can decide what side should use what switch. There’s a doc by lutron on how to wire both.

 

[upstatemike]

You can use a caseta switch in combination with the conventional hardwired switch. That’s what I did at my other place and it’s working fine. You can decide what side should use what switch. There’s a doc by lutron on how to wire both.

Any chance you have a link to that doc?

 

[ASIHome]

Here you go: https://www.casetawireless.com/documents/0301710a_caseta%20advanced%20inst.pdf

 

[upstatemike]

Here you go: https://www.casetawireless.com/documents/0301710a_caseta%20advanced%20inst.pdf

So it looks like a state change on the blue wire toggles the Caseta switch or dimmer. This will solve my problem, Thanks!

 

[ASIHome]

The biggest not is that not all Caseta devices have that Blue wire. I believe it's only the 5A switch and the PRO dimmer.

 

[upstatemike]

I'm thinking of using two PD-6ANS switches. The load of the remote one will connect to the blue wire on the main one. The remote will just be an overpriced toggle switch with no programming features used but it will create a visually matched set of switches. Alternatively I will use some other kind of switch for the remote but it might be a smart switch of some sort to match the other main house switches.

 

[vc1234]

I'm thinking of using two PD-6ANS switches. The load of the remote one will connect to the blue wire on the main one. The remote will just be an overpriced toggle switch with no programming features used but it will create a visually matched set of switches. Alternatively I will use some other kind of switch for the remote but it might be a smart switch of some sort to match the other main house switches.

I've installed and use a PD-6ANS with no issues at all. Wiring is rather simple: the mechanical switch does not switch anything but rather signals the 6ANS to do so.

I am not sure though that another caseta switch could play the mechanical switch role successfully as it really does not disconnect 120V entirely as a mechanical contact would. I vaguely recall although I may be wrong that in the 'off' state a PD-6ANS has high voltage on its output anyway. That may be enough for its partner not to act as you intend. Unfortunately, Lutron has not bothered to produce a real mechanical contact caseta switch (there are such of zwave persuasion).

 

[upstatemike]

I've installed and use a PD-6ANS with no issues at all. Wiring is rather simple: the mechanical switch does not switch anything but rather signals the 6ANS to do so.

I am not sure though that another caseta switch could play the mechanical switch role successfully as it really does not disconnect 120V entirely as a mechanical contact would. I vaguely recall although I may be wrong that in the 'off' state a PD-6ANS has high voltage on its output anyway. That may be enough for its partner not to act as you intend. Unfortunately, Lutron has not bothered to produce a real mechanical contact caseta switch (there are such of zwave persuasion).

Thanks for the clarification. I guess because it works with exhaust fans and such I just assumed the PD-6ANS was a mechanical relay switch. I'll be sure to only use a true mechanical switch of some sort.

 

[vc1234]

Thanks for the clarification. I guess because it works with exhaust fans and such I just assumed the PD-6ANS was a mechanical relay switch. I'll be sure to only use a true mechanical switch of some sort.

In fact, if you look carefully at the Caseta switch or a dimmer for that matter, you will see a tab that you can pull out to achieve true air separation since mere switching off does not guarantee that high voltage won't be present on a light bulb contact. One should probably use a circuit breaker anyway, but many people expect that when a switch is off it might be safe to stick a finger inside a light socket.