Alarm Subpanel (keeping it neat with splice options)

Hi,
I've got 2 cans in my house that I'm remodeling (full gut) and to make things clean, I am planning on running 'home runs' to one of my cans and doing the zone splicing in the can (window+window+door = zone 1) and then sending one zone wire to the alarm panel in the other can (there will be zones closer to this can that will run direct to it).

Correct me if I'm wrong, but AFAIK, this is a good option to direct home runs for each contact since you can maintain the troubleshooting properties of having access to each line. Assuming that this plan is good practice, I have the following questions:

1. In the first can with splicing, I'm assuming you can just use a butt splice connector, but are there alternate methods similar to a patch panel for networking? Something like this?
2. I've picked out most of my components (Roughly ELK M1, Bosch ds835 sensors) but could use some recommendations for window/door sensors that don't drill into the new windows/doors that I'm ordering (mix of casement, dual horizontal siders, and a french sliding door and a french out swing door). I've accepted that you have to drill into the vertical sill of the window, but was thinking that an adhesive based magnet on the actual window part would suffice.
3. What sensors work best for doors? I would ideally like a recessed option.
4. Glass break sensors? How many and a brand suggestion?

Hopefully that's not too much! Now that the walls are all open, I'm trying to tackle as much as I can.

Thanks,
Steve

Definitely home run everything to the can. I would go one further and say if you can put everything on its own zone, even if that means buying extenders. Even if you are home run if you splice contacts together you will have to separate them to troubleshoot, etc. And I think it is nice to know exactly what zone trips, especially if you are doing automation. For example, you may want to have a whole house exaust fan triggered when inside temp > outside temp + x degrees AND 3 or more windows are open. The extra cost of the zone expander IMO is worth it.

Also, don't mix zone types... doors/windows on the same zones - don't do it. You'll treat them differently in the alarm programming in most cases. I agree - if you can, give each door/window its own zone; though if I have 2 windows very close together, or a double-french-door, I'll combine then.

Also - it seems like IT/electronics people always want to use some intermediary patch-point... personally I treat it more like an electrician would - use a wire nut and pigtail (or if few/smaller wires, the elk connectors and a pigtail work). It's not like you should be in the can screwing with things often - the time/space/expense of the extra terminal blocks have never made sense to me... and that's coming from someone with an IT background where everything terminates on cross-connect blocks and patch panels. Different environments; different reasons.

I agree with the others about separate zones for everything. From the keypads I can tell what's open/violated, as well as the info sent to the alarm company. If they receive an alarm from my home, they know exactly where it happened and can relay this info to the police. Plus, the Elk announces the location, giving me a heads up where to aim my Glock.

Work2Play has a good point about terminal blocks. I have two cans, also. One has the Elk/Alarm equipment; the other has the balance of automation equipment. Though it would have looked a lot neater if I used blocks for everything, the Elk connectors work just fine. Once it's done, it's rare that you need to touch these items.

HTH,
Kevin

Fewer points of failure. That's always my goal.

Frunple said:

Fewer points of failure. That's always my goal.

Click to expand...

I would tend to agree and personally, I don't like making splices for the sake of splicing, not to mention extra work when it's not needed.

Thanks for the info guys. Home runs it is! I have everything (cat6 and alarm run to one box). My initial reservation was that the 42" can that I'm running to could get crowded. The smaller 28" can would sit underutilized. I see all of your points though, so I'll try and make it work with the larger can.

... now if I could avoid the 2 network switch problem, that would free up some space in the cans.

Steve

I have a similar issue - anyone think a 66 block would be better than a terminal strip/barrier block, if patching is required?

What are the drawbacks to a 66 block, for patching?

I went through the same design thoughts a few weeks ago.

I've used 66 block for many years in telephone/data patching situations. I'm currently designing an upgrade from a Westec 5000 panel to an Elk-M1G panel. I do use 66 blocks for telephone (tip/ring) termination and patching. My first thought was to put in 66 blocks for all sensor and other field wiring.

But after some forum posts and more thinking, I totally agree with the KISS methodology and will NOT install any intermediate termination blocks for field wiring. Connections are ALWAYS a point of failure. I will also terminate every sensor (aside from the smoke loop) on separate zone inputs. This will eliminate one need for 'patching'. I'll use either the Elk PD modules to distribute power (or perhaps use 'barrier strips'). The only slicing in the 'can' will be to connect the set of home-run wired smoke detectors into a single 2-wire loop.

Again, few connections are a very good thing..... Plus the 66 block insulation-displacement scheme is great for quick wiring. BUT the goal with a DIY security/safety system should be integrity and NOT reduced installation labor.... If anything, I'd use barrier blocks for in-can splicing.

I did split mine into 2 cans. First floor and second floor. First contains the Elk and most of the runs, however I wanted the ability to expand later if needed and reduce what was going (wire-wise) to the main floor can. All my upstairs zones (mostly motion) pull to the zone expander in the second floor can so I only need a Cat5 and power running to the main floor from there. However I pulled some extra between the cans for future expansion (speakers or whatever I may need later). Second can contains a zone expander and supervised power with its own battery backup for the motions (I have 7 just upstairs). Cams also pull through that box should I need to change something with future tech. No terminal blocks though...

IF you are home-running several contacts to be combined into one zone, AND you intend to use EOL resisters for zone supervision, be sure to understand the pros and cons of doing so. There's a document by a fellow forum member (http://www.cocoontec...ds&showfile=168) that explains things very well. In your case refer to Figure G.

Subpanels are a different entity compared to making splices or going the "telcom/IT" route and terminate your field wiring and then run jumpers to provide your endpoints/interconnections.

I dare not get into the pros/cons of EOLR and series circuits, but unless you have a single device/EOLR, the benefits of an EOLR to completely supervise the protective zone is moot. It will allow basic troubleshooting and minimal supervision, but it will not guard against a short in any home run pair besides the one that has the EOLR connected.

Interesting discussion. I have been planning to use a 66 block for terminations. My reasoning is that in 10 years when I want to upgrade to a M100Platinum I can just change out the jumpers without worrying about the home run wiring being too short or too long. Am I missing something?

If you have a problem in 10 years, couldn't you just add a 66-Block then?

Yes, if you have space in your can and you have not cut the wires too short.