Questions on ELK-6022

Hi All,
This is my first sensor while adding wireless to my system. I am using the 6022 for a detached garage, so loop 2 will be for the man door and loop 1 will be for a garage door magnetic sensor.
My first question is what is the recommended definition for these 2 areas. I don't know if Burglar Perimeter instant is appropriate being it's a detached garage. Second, what is the type? I guessed Type 0 EOL Hardware/ Wireless.
 
Thank you for your help!
 

What is the correct supervised? I do not have a keyfob so I am assuming the answer is normal supervision but I don't know for sure.

 
 
 
 

bhoth said:

Hi All,
This is my first sensor while adding wireless to my system. I am using the 6022 for a detached garage, so loop 2 will be for the man door and loop 1 will be for a garage door magnetic sensor.
My first question is what is the recommended definition for these 2 areas. I don't know if Burglar Perimeter instant is appropriate being it's a detached garage. Second, what is the type? I guessed Type 0 EOL Hardware/ Wireless.
 
Thank you for your help!
 

Click to expand...

 
Aside from the wireless setup window you define the zone the same as you would a wired zone.
 

bhoth said:

What is the correct supervised? I do not have a keyfob so I am assuming the answer is normal supervision but I don't know for sure

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Normal Supervision is correct.
 

bhoth said:

Click to expand...

Hi Mike, thank you for your response. I would like your recommendation as I don't know if "Burglar Perimeter instant" is appropriate being it's a detached garage.
 
Thank you

The purpose of a zone being defined "instant" is to eliminate the entry and exit delay. An alarm is generated the instant the zone is violated.
 
So no I wouldn't use it on a door but yes on a window. "Burglar Entry/Exit 1" is usually used on doors.
 
Mike.

I set all of my zones as "Burglar Entry/Exit 1". This way if I accidentally open a window at night in stay mode I have time to interrupt the alarm. It doesn't seem like a problem unless the burglar know your user code.

Pay attention to your design details with amount of cable connected to the transmitter. Must be 3' or less (mainly UL, but have also seen issues with voltage through the connected loop).

DELInstallations said:

Pay attention to your design details with amount of cable connected to the transmitter. Must be 3' or less (mainly UL, but have also seen issues with voltage through the connected loop).

Click to expand...

I have probably 8 foot or so 22 gauge and it seems to be working just fine.

bhoth said:

I have probably 8 foot or so 22 gauge and it seems to be working just fine.

Click to expand...

Time is the biggest test of this. Length is cited for supervision, but the longer loop tends to cause issues over time, mainly with closed circuits and them running "dirty" or higher oxidation occurring on splices or conductors.
 
Speaking from pro experience.

I'm installing a 6022 and am having problems with the external loops. Similar application on garage side and overhead doors. The built in reed works fine, but the garage doors are not. My overhead garage doors are connected via 12'-15' of 22 gauge wire. Where in the design specs does it say the wire distance cannot exceed 3 feet? I can't seem to find that, but it seriously limits the usability of the product. Could that be my issue? 
 
FWIW I enrolled the device 3 times, each in it's own zone, same TXID but with different loop numbers. Reed on loop 2 works, but loop 1 and 3 do not and I'm receiving a "lost transmitter" error on the external zones only. Very confusing. 

Have you tried shorting and opening the loop 1 and 3 terminals with a short jumper wire?  That would tell you if it is a problem with the 6022 itself or your loop wiring.

I think you need to enroll each “loop” separately. Double check the instructions closely.


Edit: also seeing that 3ft is a UL requirement in the instructions. But if you don’t need UL burglary certification it should still work within reason.

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