Elk M1 to monitor door deadbolt status. Programming question...

I have switches that monitor the position of the deadbolts in my house. I want the F4 button LED to illuminate if any of the deadbolts are not locked, and go dark if all deadbolts are secure. I can't figure out how to get the F4 LED to "follow" the status of all three deadbolts.

How do I accomplish this in Elk programming?

David D said:

I have switches that monitor the position of the deadbolts in my house. I want the F4 button LED to illuminate if any of the deadbolts are not locked, and go dark if all deadbolts are secure. I can't figure out how to get the F4 LED to "follow" the status of all three deadbolts.

How do I accomplish this in Elk programming?

Click to expand...

 
You control the illumination of the F-keys by defining Illumination Events for each keypad.  This is done in RP, under the Keypads folder item.
 
Define the deadbolt zone inputs as Non-Alarm events in the zone definition window. 
 
In the Keypads folder, select a phantom Output state in the 7000 range to activate the illumination event.  For example, 7208 for phantom output 208.

Next, you need to write some rules to turn on output 208 when any deadbolt is unlocked, and turn off the output when all deadbolts are locked,

RAL said:

 
Next, you need to write some rules to turn on output 208 when any deadbolt is unlocked, and turn off the output when all deadbolts are locked,

Click to expand...

This is where I'm running into trouble. Each deadbolt is on a separate zone. I can't figure out out to write the rules such that the LED will illuminate if any of the deadbolts are unsecured, and self-restore when all are secured.

David D said:

This is where I'm running into trouble. Each deadbolt is on a separate zone. I can't figure out out to write the rules such that the LED will illuminate if any of the deadbolts are unsecured, and self-restore when all are secured.

Click to expand...

 
You'll need a set of rules for each deadbolt, since a rule only triggers when the state of the input tested by the "Whenever" changes (i.e. goes from unlocked/not-secure to locked/secure.
 
Suppose you have 3 deadbolts.
 
Whenever Deadbolt1 Becomes Not Secure
     THEN Turn Output 208 ON
 
Whenever Deadbolt2 Becomes Not Secure
     THEN Turn Output 208 ON
 
Whenever Deadbolt3 Becomes Not Secure
     THEN Turn Output 208 ON
 
Whenever Deadbolt1 Becomes Secure
   AND Deadbolt2 is Secure
   AND Deadbolt3 is Secure
     THEN Turn Output 208 OFF
 
Whenever Deadbolt2 Becomes Secure
   AND Deadbolt1 is Secure
   AND Deadbolt3 is Secure
     THEN Turn Output 208 OFF
 
Whenever Deadbolt3 Becomes Secure
   AND Deadbolt1 is Secure
   AND Deadbolt2 is Secure
     THEN Turn Output 208 OFF

Thanks RAL. I'll give that a shot.

Finally got everything hooked up and programmed. Works like a charm. Thank you!

Also added programming to tell you which door is unlocked by pressing the F4 key. Works great unless more than one door is not secured and then it only displays the last unsecured door.

David D said:

Finally got everything hooked up and programmed. Works like a charm. Thank you!

Also added programming to tell you which door is unlocked by pressing the F4 key. Works great unless more than one door is not secured and then it only displays the last unsecured door.

Click to expand...

 
Glad it works! 
 
Just out of curiosity, what sort of switches do you have that monitor the deadbolts?  Are they ones you added to a standard deadbolt, or did you find deadbolts that have an integrated switch?

It's so simple, it's almost embarrassing. I used GRI (George Risk Industries) PBF-2020T plunger switches mounted in the end of the deadbolt dust cups in the door jambs. The switches recess into a 3/8" hole and have a two screw flange that secures it there. It also has a screw that fits into the end of the switch plunger that allows fine tuning the length and actuation. The end of the deadbolt actuates the switch. You can adjust the switch such that the deadbolt must be fully thrown to activate the switch. It's very reliable and unobtrusive. The hardest part is fishing the wire.

I designed a similar setup for a high end client years ago. They had a much larger home (15,000 square feet) and had many more doors to keep track of than I do!