USB keystones and higher-rate charging

Does anyone know if various phones and tablets will still charge at their faster rates if the cord is connected through a USB extension or wall keystone?
 
Like these:
https://smile.amazon.com/s/ref=sr_pg...sb+3+keystone&
 
I've a situation on a boat where it's inconvenient to have a typical 12v socket visible. But I can readily use a 12v socket mounted behind a panel and use a short cord and USB pass-through for plugging in the phone. This would avoid getting stuck with lower voltage/wattage charging instead of Samsung's faster rate.
 
Has anyone tried this and met with success/failure? What kind of pass-through is going to be necessary, USB2 or USB3?

The link above goes to a general Amazon page...
 
hxxps://www.amazon.com/ref=nb_sb_noss_null
 
Here I am looking for a charging dock of sorts that I can hang on the wall next to the multiline DECT phone base.  Looks a bit office like and not sitting on the kitchen counter. (I ran the power and phone lines down inside of the wall to a small UPS power supply) and want to use the same power supply for charging the phones if possible.

There are a lot of specs out there, so you have to find whatever you phone uses and test.   Generic USB will cap out around 2.4A and most times that is shared if there are multiple ports.   QC 1,2,3, USBC-PD and vendor proprietary will go much higher.  
 
If the adapter for your phone comes with a power  cord attached it may be for good reason (meaning it does not follow a spec) and plugging the adapter into some sort of pass through will fry it (I did this with a dock and my moto adapter).   So first determine what protocols your phone supports and then select the appropriate adapter from  a reputable vendor.  I have had a lot of luck with the Anker QC and USBC-PD car/travel adapters.   I bought several brands and used an app called Ampere to test them until I found the best ones for  car/travel, etc.  i get around 15W with the Anker QC3.0 12v adapter.
 
Also be aware that a lot of Chinese knockoffs will claim they support QC but don't, they will usually use a name that sounds like the Quick Charge TM and not have logos on Amazon or be listed on Qualcomms vendor list.

QC 2.0 and QC 3.0 use higher voltages negotiated by later  Samsung phones and maybe some other brands now. QC 2.0 stepped voltages and QC 3.0 variable, up to 20Vdc. Doubting it, I have measured the voltage changes on Samsung phones with an inline dongle meter. WTF?
 
I don't see any improvement over the older "Fast Chargers" that can achieve the 2.0 amperes @ 5Vdc. If there is any difference in charging speeds, the 3-4 minutes faster isn't noticeable or worth the extra battery wear and tear. I am converting to induction charging which cannot use higher voltages anyway. The convenience is too much to resist.
 
Fast charge seems to be a relative term against  the old USB standard max 0.5 amperes output. The higher voltage seems like too much tech for nothing, and the latest advertising gimmick.

Yet it all works nicely, including Samsung's fast-wireless charging.  I've been delighted to have been using all wireless charging phones and tablets for nearly a decade now.  But the wireless chargers themselves do have to get power somewhere and that's the point of this thread.

What I see is a likely changing landscape for charging and I want to avoid investing in dead-ends with in-built chargers. 
 
Making changes to anything on a boat is spendy, so it's best done with some planning in mind.
 


I'm going to order up a couple of the keystone and see how well they work.
 

wkearney99 said:

Yet it all works nicely, including Samsung's fast-wireless charging.  I've been delighted to have been using all wireless charging phones and tablets for nearly a decade now.  But the wireless chargers themselves do have to get power somewhere and that's the point of this thread.

What I see is a likely changing landscape for charging and I want to avoid investing in dead-ends with in-built chargers. 
 
Making changes to anything on a boat is spendy, so it's best done with some planning in mind.
 

circled 20180410_122351.jpg

I'm going to order up a couple of the keystone and see how well they work.
 

Click to expand...

I have been thinking about getting a vehicle charger stand for my mobile devices. They sure look handy instead of wearing out the connectors in the console. Unfortunately, I cannot find any units that take a USB-C connector so the current is likely limited to 2.0A @ 5V anyway.
 
Do you think the phones can communicate with the induction charging stands to increase the supply voltage or current available? The voltage is DC and the charging stand has to convert the DC to an AC induction signal anyway. So far, from what I have read, I doubt this is happening (yet). 10Watts (2.0A x 5Vdc) seems to be the limit specified on the ones I have browsed.

I've been happy with the iOttie series of induction chargers in the car and on the boat.  Likewise Spigen and Samsung's fast chargers for desktops (both of which have a microUSB socket in them, not USB-C).  I've not looked into the specifics of the voltages and data rates, just gone with their simplicity.  Bearing in mind that wireless fast charging is relatively new and not all 3rd party chargers appear to do it reliably.  That and you need to use an appropriately matched transformer to drive them.  Thus the whole reason of avoiding generic USB sockets and going through the extra hassle of pass-throughs and such.  
 
Combined with vehicle mounts from Pro-Fit and various adapters from Arkon it's been quite nice not having to plug anything into the phones when driving.

Here have utilized ProClip phone mounts in my automobiles for the last 20 years.  They are very modular.
 
Just recently updated the charger on it.  Tiny thing buried in the console.  It is a high amperage charger (bucky transformer).

Reading minimum is 5 watts and new ones utilize 7.5 or 10 watts.
 
The USB charger cable is very thin and I was able to place it in a nook behind the console.  I wired it to the fuse block and powers on only with the ignition in the on position.  Most of the work was related to pulling the console off / getting to the fuse block.
 
Recently updated all of the ProClip mounts for the larger 6" phone except went to purchasing them from the EU as the local Wisconsin distribution center customer service sucks.
 
I like the idea of a wireless charger in the car and might be able to fit one in the ProClip mount as it is very modular.
 
ProClip came out with a wireless charger mount in 2018.  EU company is called Brodit based in Karlsborg, Sweden.

I have this one in my Cayenne:

https://www.iottie.com/Product/Detail/5064/Easy-One-Touch-4-Wireless-Fast-Charge-Qi-Mount-_Online_

The socket on the back is 17mm (which is what Garmin uses on their nav stuff).  I have that attached to a bracket made by Rennline.  Works fantastically well.  Oddly, I've never gotten around to taking a picture of it installed (as my phone is the camera).  I put it on the passenger side of the radio and my wife uses it while on longer road trips.  
 

 
I've put the same cradle in my wife's Mini Cooper using a bracket from Cravenspeed.  I added a 17mm ball for the cradle.
 
In both those situations I bought the iOttie and did not use the suction cup mount and arm.  On the boat I'm currently using the whole setup as I haven't found exactly where I want a more permanent mount.

Ahh...
 
Yeah the Brodit / ProClip universal mount / base wedge goes between the dash console and has a bit of sticky on it.  No screws and an un invasive mount.
 
I wanted a bucky transformer with a right / left angled usb cable and had issues with Amazon (right and left) sales so went to Ebay to purchase the cable from the same company selling them on Amazon.
 
Personally mounted it on the left side of the console and under the HU.
 
Brother in law still throws his cell phone in a plastic bag in his boats. Seeing stalk mounts for boats for use with tablets and or phones.

If you don't need data, these microUSB cables work quite nicely.  They can be plugged in either way.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01COTBK7Q

Yeah the right handed or left handed mini USB device is just because I wanted a short run coming from the console to the phone holder and wanted it to look nice.
 
It is one way on one and another way on another car.  If using a wireless charger then I would go behind the mount such that you do not see it at all.
 
None of what I have done is for data.  Data comm is all bluetooth (and have WiFi) and mixes a bit with the built in car TTS / VR (which I keep off).  BMW partnered with Intel many years ago for their OS which is Intel CPU based verses ARM based.  Thinking the communications bus on the boat is legacy style serial.

All of the transport comes to a junction behind the console and the HU and controls are in the front where as the meat is on a rack in the back. (stacked bluetooth, amplifier, GPS, Satellite radio, et al - looks a bit like a miniature computer rack).

Boat networking is a whole other layer of complications.  It's RS-422 (sort of) for a lot of older stuff, called NMEA-0183.  Modern stuff uses a variant of CANBUS, called NMEA-2000.  There's also proprietary branches for certain marine manufacturers like Raymarine (3 variants of their SeaTalk), Simnet, Robnet and others.  I've got 0183, N2K, Simrad Robnet, B&G Fastnet and SeaTalk1 in mine.   Oh, and some 10baseT Ethernet too.
 
I'm paring it down to just 0182 and N2K.  It's somewhat slow-going as you learn not to merely trust specs, but to actually confim/deny what folks are experiencing with the stuff.  Not everything lives up to it's hype. 

Along the way you discover fun things like you don't want to connect product X to product Y because it'll start chattering network sentences (packets, sort of) that will conflict with product Z (but only if THAT was between generations 3 and 6).  There are even bridges now that specialize in being configurable as 'choke points' for certain kinds of PGN sentences.  Of course then you need to know if those bridges will deal with the particular baud rate that's involved and at what frequency of updates.  As in, you've got a rudder turn rate indicator that wants to squawk 0183 sentences but at a much higher frequency than the bridge can absorb.  Oh.... that'd be bad if you want your autopilot getting properly live data before making turns.  So, yeah, it's not quite plug-and-play.

The idea of this cubby/grommet/whatever is to allow bringing some of the wiring out on a temporary basis without having to unscrew panels every time.  And to do so in a way that doesn't look like cheap crap from an RV.   This is not a trailer boat.

I'm likely headed toward having the whole helm binnacle redone to make it slightly taller, to gain some frontal area for a better layout.  It's a tough thing to plan, given the number of variables that factor into it.  I mean, I could just say "make it like this" but it'd cost a frickin' mint.  So I'm looking to juggle what can or can't be moved due to cabling restrictions.  Some stuff doesn't have a lot of slack behind it and doesn't lend itself to easy splicing.  And of course along the way I discover the 'tech' that the local marine installer uses might know less about all this than I do... for which I'd pay HOW MUCH per hour to educate?

And eventually I'm going to have some Fibaro (or other) modules controlling some lighting. But lots of other shenanigans to sort out first.

Meanwhile, ordered one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HRKQ75G


As I feared, cheap thin lid.  I swear, I've got card stock and postcards that are made from thicker material than the metal of this door. Upside is it came with door facing the wrong way, so I'll use that as the excuse to return it.  Or not, for $10 it might not be worth the hassle.

But you'd hope there'd be something in-between practically tinfoil and $275 for something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Doug-Mockett-Company-Inc-Grommet/dp/B00MR5UM40
 
I'm all for spending a bit more, but really?  HOW much?

Richelieu makes them too.  Bargain at only $130!   :wacko:

I'd stick with a cheap one but it's right where someone would be likely to fiddle with it. I'm not kidding, a strong press would dent it.