3D Printing and wall switches

[pete_c]

Ahh...
 
Yes googled Microcenter and there is still one in the area...here go to Fry's which is just closer to the interstate and easier to get to than the Microcenter.
 
Yeah here typically leave tablets in chargers but in off mode and I cannot do that though with the cell phones.  That said I have a very old humidor with nice outside carved wood which I re purposed one drawer as a cell phone keeper / charger. 
 
Had a neighbor here that build a wood shop in his basement and for a few years did make clocks and decorative wood Christmas decorations which they gave out for Christmas every year to the family.

 

[ano]

Filament quality varies, so I'd be curious what brand you were using.  I've had great luck, thus far, with Hatchbox, Inland (house brand at Microcenter) and some eSun samples.  There's a Mini Select group on Facebook that's VERY quick with help.  Questions, especially ones with pictures or video, get answered pretty darn quickly. 

I used the Monoprice PLA filament, standard not premium.
 

When you change filament you generally can't just pull it out.  Well, you can but it's often best to do a heated pull (aka 'atomic pull').  Run the temp up to 200 push in the new filament until you see the new color coming out the head.  Then back the temp down to 90 and pull it back.  This lets your new filament get into the heater block, mix with what might have been left and pull it the old stuff back out.  You'll see a clumpy bit of the old color on the new. 

Yeah I followed the exact instructions in the manual it came with. Here is a quote from the manual on replacing the filament:  "  "  or in other words, it says ABSOLUTELY NOTHING. If removing it wrong can damage the printer, maybe they should have included a small note. 
 
But I'm still not sure that was really the problem, and how in the world do you "push in the new filament" with the old filament still in it? How can you put two in at once?
 
I'm looking at the Original Prusa i3 MK2 kit for $699.

 

[wkearney99]

If you're looking for hand-holding, this ain't the hobby to pursue.  
 
It's like woodworking.  Most of the tools come with NO useful instructions about how to actually use them.  Sure, most will come with some semblance of setup instructions, but not much more.  
 
Not that the Mini's manual is good, it's certainly not.  But you're not going to find much that really digs into it within the manual for each printer.  
 
That and if you're just looking to find something to complain about, well, hold onto your hat, it's going to be a bumpy ride; regardless of which printer you choose.  

 

[ano]

If you're looking for hand-holding, this ain't the hobby to pursue.  
 
It's like woodworking.  Most of the tools come with NO useful instructions about how to actually use them.  Sure, most will come with some semblance of setup instructions, but not much more.  
 
Not that the Mini's manual is good, it's certainly not.  But you're not going to find much that really digs into it within the manual for each printer.  
 
That and if you're just looking to find something to complain about, well, hold onto your hat, it's going to be a bumpy ride; regardless of which printer you choose.  

Wow you seem to have such low expectations for products!!!  You might want to check out the manual for the Prusia printer: 
http://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/manual/prusa3d_manual_mk2_en.pdf
 
Note that this company is located in the Czech Republic but they still managed to make a decent manual, in several languages at that. Apparently that company has higher customer service goals. So I don't buy the "You purchased it, now its your problem" mentality. Yes I do realize that this is the only standard many companies achieve now-a-days, but that doesn't mean I need to accept it either.  A 3D printer, even one for $200, is a product I would expect to use for years. If I don't believe a purchase is up to that task, its going back. That is why Monoprice offers the 30 day complete satisfaction warranty. No?
 
So could I take it all apart and spend hours to fix it after I used it just twice? Certainly. Am I going to? Nope.
 
I have a Brother laser printer that cost $50 new and is the best laser printer I have ever owned. There is no reason low-cost means low quality, but it certainly can.
 
Also, if you haven't noticed, 3D printers are now available at:
Walmart: https://www.walmart.com/browse/electronics/3d-printers/3944_3951_37807_1225137
Home Depot: http://www.homedepot.com/b/Tools-Hardware-Power-Tools-3D-Printers-Accessories/N-5yc1vZc7mr
OfficeMax, Staples, Sears, you get the idea. Not just the tinker crowd anymore.

 

[Waynedb]

That original Josef Prusa mk 2 is very highly reguarded, but even the best printers can and will screw up if you use it long enough.
For my second printer I just bought a cheap kit and made changes where I saw areas I could easily improve it, for my 3rd printer I will build some variation of a core XY.

 

[ano]

That original Josef Prusa mk 2 is very highly reguarded, but even the best printers can and will screw up if you use it long enough.
For my second printer I just bought a cheap kit and made changes where I saw areas I could easily improve it, for my 3rd printer I will build some variation of a core XY.

Like any new technology its gone through some growing pains.  Slowly things are getting worked out.  Were at the stage where there are LOTS of choices but many of these companies will go under, but the better ones will improve things. Like the Prusa mk 2 has a bed leveling system which was not included on many until recently, but also very helpful. 

 

[wkearney99]

At four times the price, there's lots of possibilities.  Realistic expectations, y'now?  Or not.
 
Bed leveling has more to do with quality of the bed and how it's handled.  Which is directly related to model adhesion.  The more something sticks, the more likely the bed it going to get knocked out of alignment in the process of freeing the item.  But a thicker bed presents problems with heat, not to mention being more expensive.  All kinds of work-arounds abound like old wives tales (hairspray, craft glues, painters tape, etc).  It's a very tough set of variables to balance.
 
I'm astounded how well the interchange formats have worked out.  Everything ends up being turned into gcode instructions.  But just about all slicer software that does this handles input from stl files.  Which, in turn, can be imported/exported from all kinds of modeling software.  Eventually, though, it all runs into the rule of 3.  Good, fast, cheap.. pick two.  The 'fast' being the learning curve.  Some stuff like Blender is incredibly capable, but an absolute bear to learn.
 
Meanwhile, I've switched up to using some ABS filament and have continued to get good results.  I'm aiming to make a cyclone attachment for my drill press table.  While I have a larger cyclone on my Festool, I'd like to have some options on dust collection closer to the work being done.  Especially if I switch up to cutting metal.  You don't want hot metal shavings getting pulled into a dustbin full of wood sawdust. 

 

[Waynedb]

It isn't really bed leveling, the printer measures variations in the printbed height and adjust for it when it prints, the Prusa Mk 2 I believe also adjusts for skew. The Prusa has a PEI bed surface, and used properly you don't need to use glue or hairspray, at least not for PLA.

The Prusa Mk 2 also has zoned heating to try and maintain more even temperatures across the bed surface, my first printer was very bad for uneven heat distribution. My new much cheaper kit I built has an aluminum bed and it is pretty evenly heated although it does sag in the middle a tiny bit, luckily the auto level function corrects for that just fine, I use Kapton on the bed with no glue or hairspray and the parts stick great. I believe Kapton is the same as PEI.

 

[ano]

At four times the price, there's lots of possibilities.  Realistic expectations, y'now?  Or not.
 
Bed leveling has more to do with quality of the bed and how it's handled.  Which is directly related to model adhesion.  The more something sticks, the more likely the bed it going to get knocked out of alignment in the process of freeing the item.  But a thicker bed presents problems with heat, not to mention being more expensive.  All kinds of work-arounds abound like old wives tales (hairspray, craft glues, painters tape, etc).  It's a very tough set of variables to balance.

I'm far from an expert, but I see some newer printers that claim, if they auto level the bed properly, you don't even need a heated bed.  Definitely the technology evolving, but it has come pretty far from the first machines as well. Yes 4 times the price, but many are over $1000 and many others are over $2000.  
 
These kinds of printers are just a hobby, but as my job its my responsibility to track a certain type of 3D printers that make metal parts. They are really a sight to behold when running. A little over 1100 of this one type were sold in 2016, but they sell for more than $800K each. Do the math, its a pretty serious market.