D day approaches, need guidance please!

[xclusive]

Hello,

I've been lurking the forums for awhile and had a few questions. I’ve read the wiring wiki so many times its not even funny! House is currently in framing stages now and looks like I'll be running wire possibly this weekend, if not the next weekend for sure. Builder will not let me run my own wire but GC stated walls would be open after electrical inspection over the weekend before next trade comes in to continues and left it at that! Kind of nervous since I really don't have a lot of time and wanted to get opinions on what I planned on running in priority is correct. I don't think I will be able to run everything that I would like to in a weekend but I would like to get my list done in priority so if I am not able to finish, I can finish later once I get in.

House is being built on concrete slab and is technically a two story house with a bonus room and 2 bedrooms upstairs. They are all in the center of the house so I do have access to attic on both sides of the house that I can still do some wiring on the 1[sup]st[/sup] floor. I did purchase from builder prewired alarm package which will have 2 keypads (1 in bedroom and 1 in mudroom next to garage), 1 motion detector and door contacts. Also my neighborhood has fiber runs so builder is going to wire 10 data/TV outlets (1 cat5e to each requested TV location). My thoughts on wiring priority are below:

1. Run several 2in pvc pipes from the wiring closet on 1[sup]st[/sup] floor to the attic
2. Whole house audio – Got a design from htd.com so I was going to homerun speaker wires from all speaker locations back to media hub area and home run cat5e for keypad/volume controls (6 zones and 6 sub zones) back to media hub as well.
3. Run 1 1/2in carlon resi gard at fireplace, master bedroom & bonus room locations so I can hang flat panel TV’s
4. Everywhere builder was running 1 cat5e for data/TV outlets, I was going to come back behind them and run another cat5e & 2 RG6QS so I would have 2 cat5e and 2 RG6QC at each TV location. Is this adequate?
5. Builder is running 1 cat5e to front door/rear door eves and I was going to add another cat5e wire, RG59 & power wire so I could have option of doing IP or analog cameras
6. 2 cat5e wires to thermostat

___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

I don’t know how long this would take but honestly if I can get everything above ran, I will be totally happy. There are of course other runs I would like to make but I don’t have to have them immediately.

1. Run 1in pvc pipe from my windows to the attic for automated blinds (guess this should be added at the top before drywall goes up)
2. Wires for automated locks
3. Garage sensors
4. Cameras on each corner of the house
5. Couple of cameras inside house
6. Misc wires/sensors (panty, refrigerator, washer, dryer, water sensors dishwasher, bathrooms, temps sensors, pressure sensors)

I and two other friends will be helping me.

What realistically from the list above do you think I will be able to get done in a weekend (sat/sun full day)?
Do I have the list of priority ok or should I rearrange how I am attacking this?
What is the best way to mount the pvc tubes going into the headers in attic?
Am I missing anything else?
Where is the best place to buy the orange smurf tube?

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you,

 

[tmbrown97]

I would recommend starting with anything on exterior walls and work inward from there. It's a royal pain to add wires to exterior walls after the fact. Interior walls are totally doable - even if it means cutting the occasional access hole and either putting a blank gang plate over the hole, or patching drywall. Things like your motorized blinds after the fact are damn-near impossible. The next toughest would be the speakers - so if you can get those run, huge bonus. The effort to retrofit is really almost not worth it.

Make sure you have a very efficient setup for the wires. If you're pulling 2 runs, have 2 spools of that wire; every drop location, you need enough of each wire to only do that pull once. Make a bundle, attach it, and pull it. My last house, I did 3 Cat5 and 3 Coax to each location; 2 per room, so I had a rig set up with 3 spools of each. I'd line 'em up and get 'em ready and my assistant would pull. That was a finished house, but I cut walls with complete abandon as needed - and we ran 3000' each of coax and cat5 over about 15 hours. Termination is the part that really sucks your time and way more money than you expect ($7 per keystone Cat6 jack adds up quick!)

If you're thinking about upgrading the alarm to something like an Elk, it's nice to run an extra 18/4 to each keypad; this can be used for a speaker behind the keypad and/or anything else. I also have runs for occupancy sensors; doorbell detectors; piezo sirens, etc - these are all above traditional wiring.

After you wire, you have to make sure your wires are very clean inside the stud cavity - the drywall crew will NOT care about your wires - and may nick them, cut them with their rotary tool; they'll cake them with mud - and you'll have no claim. Do yourself a favor and make sure each spot is tidied up with that in mind.

Good luck! If you have a focused plan it's perfectly doable - make sure the drill is charged up; bring a spare corded if you can; some good paddle bits, and just keep pushing forward.

 

[drvnbysound]

I absolutely think that is doable over the weekend. I had the same opportunity 4 years ago when we bought a spec house in the same phase you are now. I was able to get alarm, 5.1 in living room, whole home audio, wired internet, and Siamese (coax + 18/2) for CCTV done over a weekend... and it was January so DST was not yet in effect

That said, unfortunately, I did make some mistakes... I did not originally run Cat5E behind my TV locations (which you have covered) - not sure what I was really thinking here, but I figured it would be easy to use wireless for everything else... not exactly reliable when there are 11 other access points that I can now see from my living room. I also really didn't plan well for a true whole-home audio system, with Cat5 to volume control locations, but I am happy with what I have overall. I also originally wired for myself only... What I mean by that is that my wife and I planned to use one of the bedrooms as my office, which is also where the cable modem/wireless router and computer(s) were planned to be located... which also means that I originally ran multiple runs of Cat5 as well as the Siamese for CCTV into that room. Now, a few years later, I have since realized that when we decide to sell the home (which is definitely going to happen eventually) the next buyer may want to use the room as a childs room, and the existing wiring would have been a problem. So earlier this year, I got back into the attic and started re-wiring quite a bit of it... putting in (2) Leviton SMC cans into our utility room... something I am still working on

Something that did peak my interest was that you mentioned wiring for automated locks... do you have some in mind already?

 

[xclusive]

Ok I have finally started wiring my house. So far I got the cat5e/RG6 (2+2) ran from all of my room to wiring panel. Electirical failed yesterday(not due to me so I have to wait til they come back to reinspect before I can finisih wiring for automated blinds, security camers, chase from attic to first floor closet(house is on a slab) and whole house audio. I did have a few questions:

1. On putting my keypads for whole house audio at the entrance of each room, seems like there is always alot of electricial from lights switches, etc., is it still ok to put my keypads and volume controls here. (see pics)

2. Also here some pics of a few windows I have, wanted to know the best way to go about drilling them for automated shades

Also I wanted to ask but hadn't been able to find:


3. Where exactly do I run my security cameras to? Am I homerunning them back to a can or back to the media hub area, etc?

4. Where are my automated blinds going back to? Are they being homerun back to a can as well?

5. Would like to wire for automated locks as well but not sure what wire to run and I'm assuming this would go back to my alarm panel?

Any help would be greatly appreciated it.

Thanks,

 

[tmbrown97]

For the windows - you can wire for surface mount ones - but I wouldn't dare drill the windows for concealed. I'd drill right along the window's edge - and consider taping the wire to the window (though the trades may cut it).

For blinds, the can would work - you can wire to an M1RB or similar if you want.

locks - minimum 18/4... anyone else chime in here? 18/4 would be safe I believe... been a little while since I've done them.

Cameras - tricky one - the DVR should be well hidden/protected... depends on where you want to do your media distribution/switching. I'd likely put it in the media cabinet though for ease of distribution unless it's all IP.

 

[xclusive]

Thanks for responding, was still wondering in the pics above if anyone else can help:

1. Is it ok to place my keypads/volume controls in the next stud even if their is electrical there.
2. How should I leave wires for automated shades at the windows(since I want to fish these out later)?
3. How should I leave wires for whole house audio speakers (since I'm not using the ceiling brackets and want to fish the wire out later)
4. On outlets in room I know most recommend 2+2 but does that take into account phone/tv/data(cat5e) & 2 RG6? Our neighborhood has fiber run so we will be using TDS service which used cat5e for tv/data

This weekend will be my days as I just found out the electrical re-inspection passed and we are suppose to have framing inspection today. Insulatoin is suppose to go in on Monday with insulation inspection on Tuesday and our pre-drywall walkthru on Wednesday. Was advised by GC to wait until after framing/insulation inspection and I can run my orange smurf tube. Those runs will be my TV runs at fireplace, master bedroom and in bonus room from media hub to 2 different sides of the room. I am doing a few chase runs of PVC from the attic to 1st floor wiring closet. I am running cat5e for misc sensor W/D, refrig, pantry, (dishwasher, bathrooms & water heater) for water. Am I missing anything else anyone would add? Wish me luck and I'll try to take lots of pics, especially before insulation goes in.

Thanks!

 

[treo650]

1) I just finished a new construction so I know from experience, from your photos, a keypad will be okay on an adjacent stud to the switch.

And if you must cross a electrical wire, fross it at a 90degre radius

 

[treo650]

Oh and I forgot to run. Cat5/6 to the sprinklers.... Which I'm sad about.

So make sure you run wires to your sprinklersAlso, pre run for the garage opener. We forgot about that one too... Now we have ugly wires on the outside of drywall. Haven't had time to fish them behind drywall yet, not a high priority for me.. But will eventually get to it

 

[pete_c]

I have audio "boxes" next to my wall switches in every bedroom (and bathrooms) on the second floor and every room except for the bathroom on the main floor.

These "boxes" have the pair of speaker cables running to them then attached to 4 wire 16 guage insulated speaker wire running to the basement.

Audio box = => Cat5e to basement comm closet patch panel
2 pairs of speaker wires (from speakers in each room) = = > 4/16 insulated speaker wire to basement comm closet.
Bedrooms each have an AB switch local MM receiver audio and house audio.

This was done post construction. Easy to do in the midwest because the basement isn't finished and I have a large attic (which I can walk over each of the bedrooms).

In Florida new construction I did the same putting in boxes / mudplates and wires pre finish (before drywall). There today I've wanted to add more wiring and its been difficult because the house is one floor with many vaulted ceilings, no basement and blown insulation into the attic. (the attic though is walkable but difficult to get around in).

Initially the boxes were analog with Leviton Chopin audio volume controls, lately they have gone to Russound controllers. Most recently purchased another Russound zoned amplifier such that I will have 10 zones on the Russound amps.

 

[guy999]

i would recommend getting power to the windows for the shades, i have to use batteries and it would be nice if I had power there. Hide it somewhere but I would put it at the top if possible.

I have about 20 shades now and all are battery powered and it works fine but electric would be better in my mind and also supposedly quieter.

 

[xclusive]

Ok, seems like it was a shady move today. GC let me know how would be open today and tomorrow but if a trade was working I would have to wait. Well I thought I would have all day long today and only ended up getting in a few hours bec trades were there. I did manage to get the 1st floor wired for whole house audio. Just gotta clean up wire tomorrow, caulk holes, etc. on bottom floor. 2nd floor is only two bedroom and a bonus room so that shouldn't take long at all. Makes me kinda mad because if I would have had the whole day I definitely would have been done with whole house audio today with no problme. I can complain but can't do anything about it because the builder normally doesn't let you run your own wire and GC is basically letting me know schedule of trades so I can only work around their schedule.

After I get that done I will proceed to running the misc sensors around house. If I can(which I should be able to schedule will be tight but I will be right on pace. Would love to wire cameras on edges of house but don't know If I will get to it. I do have front/rear door cameras which are already wired. Not sure if I will be able to get all windows wired for shades as GC wants me to wait til framing inspection before I can drill windows or run chase. Think on the windows I will just drill top plates and drill the windows so at least when I do go to run wire I can just fish them down out of the attic. Fortunately I do have attic access for all of the windows.

I do have one question, if I don't have the 7 conductor wire for sprinklers, can I just run a coupe of cat5e cables? My sprinkler system will more than like be 12 to 16 zones if I had to guess.

Thanks

 

[tmbrown97]

Cat5 is pretty small gauge compared to sprinkler wire; I wouldn't use Cat5 to operate the sprinklers.

I prefer running a sub-panel and running normal sprinkler wires there; for instance, in a tract home, they're going to wire the sprinklers somewhere central and normally install their own timer - that's where I put the sub panel, so it's just a single Cat5 signal wire to that point.

 

[xclusive]

Ok thanks, haven't really decided on which system I was going to run so I am just running wires.

1. What wire would I need from the main panel to go to sub-panel in garage?

Well today only got to work about 4hrs or so I did finish getting the whole house audio run 10 zones (5 zones -keypads and 5 sub zones - volume controls) and that was it. As it is going right now I only have about 4 to 5 total hours left(2.5hrs x 2 days) to run wire so I'm in crisis mode right now. lol

1. The only misc wires that I know I want to run is to thermostats upstairs and downstairs

2. I would like to get a wire run from main panel to sub panel in the garage

3. Run my pvc chases from attic to wiring room

4. Run orange resi-gard to tv locations

5. Drill all windows and top plates so I can run wire for automated shades and window contacts later.

6. Run cat5e for garage door openers

7. Takes pictures of all rooms and then video all rooms as well.


Sounds like a lot to do but hopefully I can get it all done. I will have to prioritize and go down my list. This has been a challenge to say the least. Its not hard at all just kinda tedious and time consuming. I should be upset because I feel the GC didn't me as much time as I thought but in the end I can't be mad because I have tried my best and the rest will just have to be run in open attic space one I move in.

Thanks,

 

[Neurorad]

Do #3 first, attic to basement conduit. If you have that, retrofitting cables that you've missed will be a lot easier. Make sure you have enough conduit to cover all the cables you don't have the time to run now. I ran 4 x 4" conduits, for enough room to retrofit most everything. A few 2" or a couple 4 " should be adequate, but do what you can. Good luck!

 

[pete_c]

I was looking at my sprinkler wiring cluster and its some maybe 16/18 guage solid core multicolored wire wrapped in some weather "proofed" PVC jacket. Very "stiff" cabling. The wiring cluster runs from the outside manifold box around length of the house underground; then into the basement in the rafters to the other side of the house then back up to the garage to the rainbird box. (some maybe 150-200 feet or so).

I added cat5e to the Rainbird box and the sprinkler company added a 16 guage pair for the 24VAC line. I've used the cat5e for serial control of the Rain8Nets which replaced the rainbird controller.

That said I also gave some extra money to the guys putting in the PVC water lines such that I could utilize the PVC tubing for LV landscaping wiring. Much was pre-landscaping done with now burms in those areas; security cameras etc. It took them all of 5 minutes to add my lines and I covered most of the periferal areas of the property from the house. (under sidewalks etc). IE: I hadn't built my brick mailbox but "configured" it to be totally wired with multiple PVC tubes going to it from the house. You can also utilize the tubing for hard wired driveways sensors etc.