For digital coax audio, you only need 1 run, but i'd run 2 for a total of 5 (3 component) "just in case" you ever want to do an analog audio run.
PlanetWaves does. I bought a big 3-cable spool, but they also make 5wire ones. They are truly the easiest wires to attach connectors to, although you need to use their connectors.
I also hear that folks are using baluns (not audio authority, just baluns) so they can run 1 (or 2) cat5e, i've got no experience with that. It would certainly be nicer to run re-usable cables though, as component is fixed use.
Carl Fedders said:You should use "precision video" coax, but you don't necessarily need RG6 18AWG product.
You will see in other recent forums why "precision video" coax is what you should use - but coax designed for CATV may work (just not as well).
If cost is a concern, why use RG6? You can use RG59 or mini coax - and the construction would be preferred to CATV Quad-shield coax. Even the mini coax should be fine for most runs in a home:
RG6, 18 solid BC center conductor, 100% foil, 95%TC braid
Uncompressed HDTV SMPTE 292M up to 370 feet
- Coleman 99601
- Belden 1694A (available in bundles)
RG59, 20 solid BC center conductor, 100% foil, 95%TC braid
Uncompressed HDTV SMPTE 292M up to 300 feet
- Coleman 99501
- Belden 1505A (available in bundles)
Mini Coax, 23 solid BC center conductor, 100% foil, 95%TC braid
Uncompressed HDTV SMPTE 292M up to 210 feet
- Coleman 99401 (available in bundles)
- Belden 1855A (available in bundles)
Carl
__________________
Carl Fedders, Product Manager
Coleman Cable Inc.
I picked it up locally from a wire supply house. Honestly I needed the wire quick and didn't do any price comparisons. If you are worried about the company, perhaps you could try to call Coleman and see if they do business with them. Since it is going to be dropped shipped from Coleman, I think as long as Coleman knows who they are, I would feel comfortable doing it. That is a great price. Let me know if you end up getting it from them. I'll eventually need to buy some more.
Now that I think about it I might want to build some IR led's in the wall so I have a built in sensor bar for the wii.
Now that I think about it I might want to build some IR led's in the wall so I have a built in sensor bar for the wii.
It will be easier to do one of two things. Either buy a battery powered wireless sensor bar (about $15) or buy a transformer and connect the OEM sensor bar to it (about $10). I went the second route because I didn't want to worry about changing the batteries on the sensor bar. It only needs about 9 volts of power (I don't remember the exact number) and I simply cut the connector off the transformer and wedge the bare wires into the OEM sensor connector with a piece of wood. This way I can still use the original sensor bar with the Wii by just pulling out the transformer wires and connecting it back to the Wii.
The sensor bars are so small that you can use double sided tape and stick it either to the top or bottom of the TV and it doesn't stand out at all.
I can take pictures of my setup if you like. I have the Wii across the room from the TV tucked away on an end table.