Electrolytic Capacitor Replacement question
- Thread starter pete_c
- Start date
pete_c
Guru
Thank you Cobra.
Yes there is another electrolytic capacitor next to the one replaced. The board shows a round marking with 1/2 colored white on the negative side of it just like the electrolytic capacitor next to it such that I lined up the negative side to match the one next to it.
After soldering the new one I cannot read the markings now on the old one such that I will need to remove it to replace it.
That and the chips next to it looks like they could be fuses.
Could also be that the one next it is also bad. I cannot tell with a visual but the picture above looks a bit bulging on the top.
Yes there is another electrolytic capacitor next to the one replaced. The board shows a round marking with 1/2 colored white on the negative side of it just like the electrolytic capacitor next to it such that I lined up the negative side to match the one next to it.
After soldering the new one I cannot read the markings now on the old one such that I will need to remove it to replace it.
That and the chips next to it looks like they could be fuses.
Could also be that the one next it is also bad. I cannot tell with a visual but the picture above looks a bit bulging on the top.
pete_c
Guru
Thank you RAL.
Yes here for updated board pulled the CMOS battery and jumpered it to clear it.
Removing the heatsink, fan and cleaning and putting new gunk did take the temperature down some 10C.
That said though thinking that the Intel Atom D510 and D525 did run a tad warm. The alert stuff defaults is set at 110C or 120C.
Never have overclocked these. Core duo predecessors ran at 35-40C regular. Similiar to the ISeries 3-5 CPUs.
Yes here for updated board pulled the CMOS battery and jumpered it to clear it.
Removing the heatsink, fan and cleaning and putting new gunk did take the temperature down some 10C.
That said though thinking that the Intel Atom D510 and D525 did run a tad warm. The alert stuff defaults is set at 110C or 120C.
Never have overclocked these. Core duo predecessors ran at 35-40C regular. Similiar to the ISeries 3-5 CPUs.
mdesmarais
Active Member
Hot cap can also mean that it can't handle the ripple current. Without know exactly what the original part was, and what its specs were, its tough to say. Ripple could also be out of spec if the supply is failing in some other way.
I'v had mixed luck replacing caps- once I got another few years out of a MB, another time I replaced them all and still NFG. These days I won't do it unless I absolutely have to. Electronics is my day job, so sometimes I get a little burned out on it.
<edit> Also, your comment about parts looking like fuses- that's a small pic, so I'm not sure exactly what you're talking about, but those look like voltage regulators or possibly diodes, with the big heatsink tab soldered to the board.
I'v had mixed luck replacing caps- once I got another few years out of a MB, another time I replaced them all and still NFG. These days I won't do it unless I absolutely have to. Electronics is my day job, so sometimes I get a little burned out on it.
<edit> Also, your comment about parts looking like fuses- that's a small pic, so I'm not sure exactly what you're talking about, but those look like voltage regulators or possibly diodes, with the big heatsink tab soldered to the board.
pete_c
Guru
Thank you mdesmarais.
The original Electrolytic capactor 471uF 6.3VDC was an all aluminum covered one replaced with a regular 470uF 6.3VDC electrolytic capactor.
Other than the BIOS info page of temps and voltages touched the one I changed when the motherboard is on.
Was guessing on the fuse thing. I replaced a similiar part (probably a voltage regulator? - It was 3 pins on one of my tabletop touchscreens when I accidently powered it up with 12VDC versus 5VDC. I could not tell what it was cuz it burned up and melted on the motherboard.
I have not played with motherboard hardware since the early 2000's.
Then it was just a couple of bursting capacitors that leaked over to the motherboard on one Homeseer server back then. At the time did build a duplicate motherboard server purchasing another motherboard and fixed the original motherboard creating two duplicate servers.
I am not totally convinced that a bulgy looking capacitor is bad or even that it is bulgy. It is just an exercise to see if I can do it. So far no luck.
That and can only purchase these capacitors in bulk but they are cheap anyways.
Been testing my soldering skills lately with modifications of the Sonoff boards which is easier than this motherboard. (and modding tiny micro openWRT routers with GPIO pins for tinkering)
A few years back it was modding a tabletop touch pad with RTC and battery soldered on with hair sized wires and hot melt glue and a 44 pin zif clip (using hot air machine - PITA to do).
Electronics here has been a hobby since the 1960's ham radio days and building of heath kit stuff. Never did any of this stuff during day job.
This past week wired up a micro USB power cable for my automotive telephone. Didn't like seeing dangling cables so removed the dash trim, radio and glove compartment to hide the wire using a miniature 12VDC to 5VDC transformer and cable. Works great. Have orginal OEM bluetooth working with a separate aux bluetooth / USB connection tapping in to the bus plus use of integrated GPS, phone GPS and computer GPS tracking now.
Next tinkering may be use of an Amazon Dot as today I can already control (remotely) many functions in the car. IE: turn on lights, start it, open windows and skylight, et al. Might be easier to just tell the car inside to do this instead of using the buttons.
No leftover parts such that I was able to put it back together again bit by bit just fine.
The original Electrolytic capactor 471uF 6.3VDC was an all aluminum covered one replaced with a regular 470uF 6.3VDC electrolytic capactor.
Other than the BIOS info page of temps and voltages touched the one I changed when the motherboard is on.
Was guessing on the fuse thing. I replaced a similiar part (probably a voltage regulator? - It was 3 pins on one of my tabletop touchscreens when I accidently powered it up with 12VDC versus 5VDC. I could not tell what it was cuz it burned up and melted on the motherboard.
I have not played with motherboard hardware since the early 2000's.
Then it was just a couple of bursting capacitors that leaked over to the motherboard on one Homeseer server back then. At the time did build a duplicate motherboard server purchasing another motherboard and fixed the original motherboard creating two duplicate servers.
I am not totally convinced that a bulgy looking capacitor is bad or even that it is bulgy. It is just an exercise to see if I can do it. So far no luck.
That and can only purchase these capacitors in bulk but they are cheap anyways.
Been testing my soldering skills lately with modifications of the Sonoff boards which is easier than this motherboard. (and modding tiny micro openWRT routers with GPIO pins for tinkering)
A few years back it was modding a tabletop touch pad with RTC and battery soldered on with hair sized wires and hot melt glue and a 44 pin zif clip (using hot air machine - PITA to do).
Electronics here has been a hobby since the 1960's ham radio days and building of heath kit stuff. Never did any of this stuff during day job.
This past week wired up a micro USB power cable for my automotive telephone. Didn't like seeing dangling cables so removed the dash trim, radio and glove compartment to hide the wire using a miniature 12VDC to 5VDC transformer and cable. Works great. Have orginal OEM bluetooth working with a separate aux bluetooth / USB connection tapping in to the bus plus use of integrated GPS, phone GPS and computer GPS tracking now.
Next tinkering may be use of an Amazon Dot as today I can already control (remotely) many functions in the car. IE: turn on lights, start it, open windows and skylight, et al. Might be easier to just tell the car inside to do this instead of using the buttons.
No leftover parts such that I was able to put it back together again bit by bit just fine.
mdesmarais
Active Member
Sounds like fun! I started a hack on the Dot to route the media out the jack and keep the command/responses local. Its still laying on my bench with its guts all over. ;-)
pete_c
Guru
I ventured over to tinkering with a couple of SonOff WiFi basic modules testing my de soldering stuff. Really it is just using flux.
So far everything is working on the Sonoff. It seems to have been made for tinkering with.
It is much more difficult though with the Foxconn motherboard as hardly any solder is used so I have to add then remove the solder under the capacitors.
It is also easier to see a leaky cap then guessing on a bulging capacitor. No real rush on the motherboard.
So far everything is working on the Sonoff. It seems to have been made for tinkering with.
It is much more difficult though with the Foxconn motherboard as hardly any solder is used so I have to add then remove the solder under the capacitors.
It is also easier to see a leaky cap then guessing on a bulging capacitor. No real rush on the motherboard.
Capacitors should not be hot. And hot metal capacitors can explode or burst. Find out what is wrong before you power it longer. Sometimes the polarity can be tricky on these. If there is a black rectangle bar on the top, it is NEGATIVE. Unlike things in the rest of the world where marks are made on the positive side, capacitors are usually marked on the negative side.
pete_c
Guru
Thank you Ano.
The capacitor is installed correctly. It takes a while to get hot then the board shuts down.
In the BIOS screen keeps running fine...capacitor gets hot though. Installing an OS it shuts down about 10 minutes in to the build.
I've picked three more capacitors to replace. Just have to get to them.
The capacitor is installed correctly. It takes a while to get hot then the board shuts down.
In the BIOS screen keeps running fine...capacitor gets hot though. Installing an OS it shuts down about 10 minutes in to the build.
I've picked three more capacitors to replace. Just have to get to them.
pete_c
Guru
That was the first thing I looked at.
Intially before replacement of the first (maybe bad) aluminum electrolytic capacitor bench tested it with just a power supply, keyboard, mouse and monitor connected to it.
It would boot fine to the bios then shut down in about 30 seconds or less.
Replace what I though was a bulging aluminum capacitor (see pictures above) and this extending the bios screen display for a long time (didn't pay attention much to it) which was a good thing. Then tried to install an OS via a USB stick boot and laptop drive. It was at this point that the motherboard would shut down at about 50% of the installation.
It is just a tinkering experiment here. The guesstimate replacement caps will be less than $10 and a wait for delivery and a PITA to install.
I have a duplicate Foxconn motherboard running a lite windows server that has been on now for over 7 years 24/7 and have had no issues. Voltage display in BIOS is similiar to this motherboard. It really only serves today to run a headless Ubuntu server. The RPi's and Pine64 runs faster and lighter with a quad core arm CPU but only run Linux and not Windows (any windows).
Just started to update my STB's which run Kodi in Ubuntu 16.04. These are AOpen digital engines which do well. I have two Xi5A's which utilize Displayport HDMI and these do much better today with Ubuntu 18.04. Might update these to Shuttle digital engines for use with HD 4K video instead. I had a noisy fan in one of the Xi5A's. Ordered a new fan for one and fixed current one using lithium grease - quiet now. BTW sticking to Ubuntu for my Kodi boxes and I never did like Android for home use for anything. It is OK for cellular use though.
The newer iSeries computers today run latest Ubuntu with virtual images of Windows built in and do fine with 16Gb of RAM. IE: my current Homeseer 3 server runs a base of Ubuntu and a couple of Windows virtual boxes. Helped an automation peer build a combo Linux based home server which is an 8 drive NAS, Media server, Homeseer Server, CCTV box and a couple of virtual boxes for Windows and iOS stuff...runs great for him.
Intially before replacement of the first (maybe bad) aluminum electrolytic capacitor bench tested it with just a power supply, keyboard, mouse and monitor connected to it.
It would boot fine to the bios then shut down in about 30 seconds or less.
Replace what I though was a bulging aluminum capacitor (see pictures above) and this extending the bios screen display for a long time (didn't pay attention much to it) which was a good thing. Then tried to install an OS via a USB stick boot and laptop drive. It was at this point that the motherboard would shut down at about 50% of the installation.
It is just a tinkering experiment here. The guesstimate replacement caps will be less than $10 and a wait for delivery and a PITA to install.
I have a duplicate Foxconn motherboard running a lite windows server that has been on now for over 7 years 24/7 and have had no issues. Voltage display in BIOS is similiar to this motherboard. It really only serves today to run a headless Ubuntu server. The RPi's and Pine64 runs faster and lighter with a quad core arm CPU but only run Linux and not Windows (any windows).
Just started to update my STB's which run Kodi in Ubuntu 16.04. These are AOpen digital engines which do well. I have two Xi5A's which utilize Displayport HDMI and these do much better today with Ubuntu 18.04. Might update these to Shuttle digital engines for use with HD 4K video instead. I had a noisy fan in one of the Xi5A's. Ordered a new fan for one and fixed current one using lithium grease - quiet now. BTW sticking to Ubuntu for my Kodi boxes and I never did like Android for home use for anything. It is OK for cellular use though.
The newer iSeries computers today run latest Ubuntu with virtual images of Windows built in and do fine with 16Gb of RAM. IE: my current Homeseer 3 server runs a base of Ubuntu and a couple of Windows virtual boxes. Helped an automation peer build a combo Linux based home server which is an 8 drive NAS, Media server, Homeseer Server, CCTV box and a couple of virtual boxes for Windows and iOS stuff...runs great for him.
