HAI Omni Pro II Install Problems

[phenix]

Hi, I know most of your are ElK folks but I’m looking for some guidance with my HAI Omni Pro II. I’m in the install phase (meaning attaching the wires to the panel). I have a couple questions that are completely stumping me.

1. I’m trying to do the math of how much the maximum draw is for the whole panel and also each individual portion (Aux, Switch, Consol and Outputs 1-8). I also have 2 HAI 16 zone expansion boards that must have a max draw as well. I’m having some trouble locating the info in the manual. I need to make sure that all of the below does not exceed the max draw of the panel.
2 HAI Security Pads
4 HAI RC 80 Thermostats
1 interior Siren
1 Exterior Siren
12 Next K9-85 Motion Sensors
2 16 Zone Expansion Boards
and
20 Contacts

2. My second question / problem is. My electrician installed all my smoke detectors which means there are all daisy chained and all high voltage. How do I turn that high voltage into a low voltage current so I can end the daisy chained Smoke Detectors at my HAI Panel?

If you wouldn’t mind. Please keep your answers in the “Idiots Guide to installing a security Panel” format. This is my first install. And I know this stuff can get pretty technical.

Thanks sooo much

 

[BraveSirRobbin]

The current draw should be listed in the instructions that came with your siren and motion detectors. It may have a rating in "milliamps" instead of "amps".

You can replace just one of your 120 VAC smoke detectors with a GE type and that GE type will provide contact closure (if it or any of the other smokes go off) to your system. Refer to post links below:

http://www.cocoontech.com/index.php?showto...smoke+detectors

http://www.cocoontech.com/index.php?showto...smoke+detectors

http://www.cocoontech.com/index.php?showto...amp;#entry56297

Note that there are two types. I myself just wanted to monitor IF ANY of the smokes went off with a single zone (I also had to replace only ONE of the smoke detectors installed by my builder with this GE one). There is another type that will provide contact closure for that smoke detector itself (i.e. will not trip if any of the others trip) in case you wanted to replace ALL of your smoke detectors and have a zone for EACH one!

Let me know if the above explanations do not make sense. :blink:

 

[phenix]

Thanks that GE ESL 350cx seems like it will do the trick perfectly. I don't really care about knowing which smoke detector is going off i just want to be able to hook it up to the panel. Now when you hook it up to the panel. Does it just go into one of the zones since its just a relay? It doesn't need to draw any power from the panel?

As far as the power draw issue. There doesn't seem to be standard language between manuals. So I'm never sure if I'm reading the correct number. In the HAI Manual for the panel. it says

Typical currnet consumption at normal voltage:
Controller: 135mA
Console: backlight off - 35mA backlight on - 100 mA
Controller Maximum Group Current Outputs:
Devices: AUX 12 VDC, Switch 12 VDC, Console, and Outputs 1-8: 1 A
Horn: Int Horn and Ext Horn: 1 A
Controller Maximum Individual Current Outputs:
Devices: (Do not exceed 1A Total)
AUX 12 VDC 1A
Switch 12 VDC 1A
Console 1A
Outputs 1-8 100mA

So maybe you could help me make heads or tales of these numbers.


Then the Motion sensor manual uses the phrase "current drain" of 8mA or they say something further in the manual about "alarm output of 100mA"

Then the HAI thermostats uses the term "Operating Current less than 15mA"

And the HAI expansion board says "Current Consumption of 40mA"

I;m not sure if these are the numbers I am suppose to be looking for or if there are others? I just don't want to fry my panel when I apply power to it.

Thanks again

 

[BraveSirRobbin]

Thanks that GE ESL 350cx seems like it will do the trick perfectly. I don't really care about knowing which smoke detector is going off i just want to be able to hook it up to the panel. Now when you hook it up to the panel. Does it just go into one of the zones since its just a relay? It doesn't need to draw any power from the panel?

I don't have an Omni but it will work like a typical contact sensor (door/window). I also don't know any EOL resistor requirements for the Omni. This does not draw any power for system operation (other than the typical "loop" current for that zone).

As far as the power draw issue. There doesn't seem to be standard language between manuals. So I'm never sure if I'm reading the correct number. In the HAI Manual for the panel. it says

Typical currnet consumption at normal voltage:
Controller: 135mA
Console: backlight off - 35mA backlight on - 100 mA
Controller Maximum Group Current Outputs:
Devices: AUX 12 VDC, Switch 12 VDC, Console, and Outputs 1-8: 1 A
Horn: Int Horn and Ext Horn: 1 A
Controller Maximum Individual Current Outputs:
Devices: (Do not exceed 1A Total)
AUX 12 VDC 1A
Switch 12 VDC 1A
Console 1A
Outputs 1-8 100mA

So maybe you could help me make heads or tales of these numbers.

It seems like the outputs for the switched DC (probably relays of some sort) and auxillary 12 vdc power (power motion sensors and such) should not exceed one amp each. Outputs 1-8 (dont' know what they are) only 100 milli amps (which is 0.1 amps) each.

Your horn (siren) should not exceed one amp.

Then the Motion sensor manual uses the phrase "current drain" of 8mA or they say something further in the manual about "alarm output of 100mA"

Then the HAI thermostats uses the term "Operating Current less than 15mA"

And the HAI expansion board says "Current Consumption of 40mA"

The motion sensor will draw a maximum of 100 milliamps or 0.1 amps. The thermostats 0.015 amps and expansion board 0.04 amps.

Make sure any device you use that requires AUX 12 volt dc power (such as motion sensors) does not add up to a sum over one amp.

Also, make sure any sirens you use do not add up over one amp.

I'm pretty sure that will do it. Perhaps someone with actual Omni experience can comment further. :blink:

 

[heffneil]

I asked my supply company about that GE smoke and they suggested it being a bad idea. Reason being it isn't UL listed for the HAI to use the high voltage smoke detector. His concern was that if there was fire and the insurance company were to find out about this setup they might use it as a method of not covering the loss. Of course ripping out all the smokes and replacing them with low voltage units can't be a better situation since I am not a licensed installer. Any thoughts on this?

Neil