As I remember it, and I could be wrong, it was something closer to what you showed in your first port. I thought it was a capacitor rather than a resistor. Maybe resistor and capacitor in parallel. Its just trial-and-error. In my post above, I have a link to a yellow one and a blue one. Do you know how they are different? They both say they consume 15ma. Using I (squared) x R = about 2.25 watts, if R = 10K. A 5watt, 10K resistor is about $2.00pete_c said:
Has anyone tried the LDS-E-120V dimming stabilizer with UPB LED lighting?
- Thread starter pete_c
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pete_c
Guru
In my post above, I have a link to a yellow one and a blue one. Do you know how they are different? They both say they consume 15ma. Using I (squared) x R = about 2.25 watts, if R = 10K. A 5watt, 10K resistor is about $2.00
That was going to be my next question to you...Did you purchase the yellow one or blue one for your old home?
and if it is just a resistor in series with the load then will take apart the PCS one to see what makes it tick...
That was going to be my next question to you...Did you purchase the yellow one or blue one for your old home?
and if it is just a resistor in series with the load then will take apart the PCS one to see what makes it tick...
I doubt it would be all resistive. That much heat encased in the back of a sealed box would likely burn up eventually.
Just a guess but I would say a resistor and capacitor in series. Then the current voltage would be out of phase, possibly matching the current draw to the lacking current draw section of the waveform from an LED bulb power supply. Also at 15mA the power and heat created would be much less.
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Just a guess but I would say a resistor and capacitor in series. Then the current voltage would be out of phase, possibly matching the current draw to the lacking current draw section of the waveform from an LED bulb power supply. Also at 15mA the power and heat created would be much less.
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Good question. I remember it being blue, as I THINK the yellow came out later. Only one available when I ordered it.pete_c said:
These "things" can perform a few functions. For dimmers without a neutral, they provide the supply power that a neutral would. For flickering LED, its a bit different, although a higher load sometimes helps here. At low dim levels, an LED bulb has to take a very strange cut-off sine wave from the dimmer, and from that produce a low voltage, high current an LED can use. Sometimes a bit more load can stabilize things. Not all LED bulb power supplies are the same.
Unfortunately triac dimmers were never designed to control LED bulbs. Even most "LED dimmers" use triacs because they are cheap. A real LED dimmer costs much more and manufactures don't want to make $150 dimmers so they hope you won't notice the flickering.
There is trend out there to have a dimmer provide 0v to 10v DC as a signal, and LED bulbs/lights to be powered by 120v but take this signal to tell the bulb how bright to be. 0v = 0%, 5v = 50%, 10v = 100%, etc. It is used often in commercial LED lighting. Someday maybe.
Hi All - Marshall Lester here
Besides PCS, I started a small business just selling the LDS which I patented. LED Dimming Solutions at ldsdimming.com.
The blue LDS-R (R for resistive) is a pure resistor with proper protection (both a current fast acting fuse and a 130'C thermal fuse) so it can be safely installed behind a dimmer in a single gang box. Just under 2W at 100%.
The yellow LDS-E (E for electronic) is a 5x larger load, but a transistor circuit applies the load only at the beginning and end of the AC cycle - which is where it is needed to help triac- based dimmers trigger correctly with LED loads. The LDS-E would dissipate 10W but since the load is only applied at about the 2msec at the beginning and end of the AC cycle it can do a better job with the same 2W power. That is the patent. Also with with proper protection (both a current fast acting fuse and a 130'C thermal fuse).
The power consumed by both versions is much less than 2W at loads less than 100%.
There is a lot of info at ldsdimming.com. Also you can call me with any questions. The phone number is on the website.
I set them LDS-E and LDS-R at the same price to find out which one works better. After one year about 4 times as any people re-order the yellow - electronic version than the blue pure resistor version.
My experience indicates these devices help the dimming issues about 70-80% of the time.
Besides PCS, I started a small business just selling the LDS which I patented. LED Dimming Solutions at ldsdimming.com.
The blue LDS-R (R for resistive) is a pure resistor with proper protection (both a current fast acting fuse and a 130'C thermal fuse) so it can be safely installed behind a dimmer in a single gang box. Just under 2W at 100%.
The yellow LDS-E (E for electronic) is a 5x larger load, but a transistor circuit applies the load only at the beginning and end of the AC cycle - which is where it is needed to help triac- based dimmers trigger correctly with LED loads. The LDS-E would dissipate 10W but since the load is only applied at about the 2msec at the beginning and end of the AC cycle it can do a better job with the same 2W power. That is the patent. Also with with proper protection (both a current fast acting fuse and a 130'C thermal fuse).
The power consumed by both versions is much less than 2W at loads less than 100%.
There is a lot of info at ldsdimming.com. Also you can call me with any questions. The phone number is on the website.
I set them LDS-E and LDS-R at the same price to find out which one works better. After one year about 4 times as any people re-order the yellow - electronic version than the blue pure resistor version.
My experience indicates these devices help the dimming issues about 70-80% of the time.
pete_c
Guru
Hello Marshall,
Thank you for the information.
Would you consider a special deal for Cocoontech users only?
I do not want to post the Worthington price here but something similar from you directly to us here would be nice.
That said there are many UPB users on the forum today.
I have been converting very slow over to LED lighting and just starting to get dimming issues trying different types of lamps.
Thank you for the information.
Would you consider a special deal for Cocoontech users only?
I do not want to post the Worthington price here but something similar from you directly to us here would be nice.
That said there are many UPB users on the forum today.
I have been converting very slow over to LED lighting and just starting to get dimming issues trying different types of lamps.