HELP Finding In-Wall BLANK Speaker Grills...

While things can be made to 'meet code' something like that violates the "principle of least surprise".  
 
I doubt anyone coming along in years hence will be expecting there to be a full outlet buried behind a speaker grille!  
 
That's my point here.  I'm saying I wouldn't do it that way, nor recommend anyone else doing so.  You're clearly free to entertain other ideas.  It's certainly clever, in a hillbilly-kinda way.  So, points for ingenuity!
 
I think code would suggest using an actual work box designed for a line voltage outlet and then in-wall low voltage cable run to an actual speaker. Someone coming along later sees a speaker and finds it's just a speaker, finds a workbox access plate and sees there's equipment installed as per code. 
 
 Although, I suppose something could be rigged up in the same fashion, but the outlet faceplate would have to be flush against the inside of the 'alcove'.  Effectively isolating it from the low voltage gear in the box.  
 
wkearney99 said:
While things can be made to 'meet code' something like that violates the "principle of least surprise".  
 
I doubt anyone coming along in years hence will be expecting there to be a full outlet buried behind a speaker grille!  
 
That's my point here.  I'm saying I wouldn't do it that way, nor recommend anyone else doing so.  You're clearly free to entertain other ideas.  It's certainly clever, in a hillbilly-kinda way.  So, points for ingenuity!
 
I think code would suggest using an actual work box designed for a line voltage outlet and then in-wall low voltage cable run to an actual speaker. Someone coming along later sees a speaker and finds it's just a speaker, finds a workbox access plate and sees there's equipment installed as per code. 
 
 Although, I suppose something could be rigged up in the same fashion, but the outlet faceplate would have to be flush against the inside of the 'alcove'.  Effectively isolating it from the low voltage gear in the box.  
For what it's worth, the outlet IS installed in a single gang, mounted (plastic) junction box. The incoming electric line is stapled to the stud below the outlet box.

I also noticed, after reading your post, that the picture was taken before installation of the single gang decora outlet cover.

While I certainly acknowledge that this isn't standard - I searched a long time to find examples of anyone who had accomplished a similar project - even today, there are surprisingly few examples to be found of whole house voice announcement systems. Especially those that can announce to any combination of room / rooms.

This set up is reserved for rooms without a dedicated set of speakers and amp in the wiring closet (this photo is in a powder room). In my main rooms - where I installed true whole house audio, the announcements ARE broadcast over the in-wall / in-ceiling speakers (any music playing mutes during the announcement).

Hillbilly... That smarts a bit, even though I am originally from WV. :)
 
WV... no, say it ain't so!  <grin>  How's the washer workin' out on the front porch?
 
No insult intended.
 
Yes, whole house announcement/intercom systems are sorely neglected.  If only because their price point far exceeds parents shouting for free.  That and as you likely know the user expectations for how it "should work" can turn it into a complicated/expensive mess.
 
That and when you have other speakers 'nearby' how much do you need for coverage?  I ask that rhetorically, not to put you on the spot.  Because while I wired each and every room for speakers, the coverage from just a few has been more than enough to effectively provide decent sound.  
 
There's a lot of issues that come up with regard to whole home messaging.  I'm guessing emerging tech like the Amazon Echo could have interesting applications.  
 
I have 5 rectangular in-walls in parts, but only 1 complete with intact frame and grill.

I do have plans to pull out 2 more, though, and replace with in-ceilings. Will be 6-8 weeks, I estimate.

You can have them for free. Without the magnets, the frames and grills are very light, and cheap to mail.
 
I think most high end resi installs would just use the whole house audio speakers for annunciation. If annunciation is needed in a room without speakers - I would add another speaker. You could use a small Elk speaker low on the wall, or an unobtrusive small in-ceiling.
 
Here utilized text to speech via the zoned audio system.  It is just two wires to each speaker.  I do have a dedicated single box with cat5e to keypad next to or near each pair of speakers. 
 
I also have in place from the early 2000's a HACS AB8SS RS-232/IR/X10 8 zone speaker switcher which you may be able to find used.  Just saw one for sale some place recently.  These were well built and last forever.
 
The above device is using an Audiosource AMP-100 (well over 10 years and doing fine).
 
Late 1990's used a TOA commercial audio modular amplifier.  It has little plug n play modules.  Also built to last a long time and uses the 70/100 volt stuff.
 
100-volt-with-1-spkr.png

 
I like in wall next to the light switch small unobtrusive speaker look for just the addition of an annunciation speaker as mentioned above by Neurorad.
 
I personally like this Russound ISSP intercom speaker.  The Garage and Deck today are Russound external style speakers - these also are built to last a long time.  Deck speakers mounted on brick have been exposed to the weather outside and still sound and look like new.
 
ISSP-l.jpg

 
I have historically utilized those drop ceiling type (24" X 24")  of speakers in the 1990's for a commercial installation.  I have seen these used for residential in ceiling drywall stuff; you don't even notice them.
 
In this case, honestly, I'd go the 70V speaker (hell, even 25/50V route) with a separate amp and then drop a relay at the speaker transformer and call it a day. No impedance issues, speakers are cheap and you can easily build on the system as long as the wattage is correct. Easy enough to do with LV cabling and controls, which would be simpler, compliant, and honestly, cheaper and safer than this route. For that matter, you could use real speakers in the cutout and not worry about the PC speakers being buried in the wall.
 
Quick math:
$25 for a 70V speaker
$8 for an RBSN
$60 for a M1RB (or $100 for an XOVR)
$75 for a cheap 70V amp
$70 for 500' 18/4
Easily compliant
 
Your way:
$50 outletlinc
$20 Speaker frame
$20 for PC speakers
$10 for 25' romex (assuming roughly this much to properly install an outlet)
Argurably compliant depending on install.
 
So each speaker would run you about $100/speaker your way vs. a scalable install, $240 for infrastructure and the first install, then each subsequent addition is $35 and builds on what you already have. A lot simpler and less components in field that could fail.
 
There's other ways to do this, but 70V would probably be my suggestion.
 
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