How much are our switches costing us?

Unfortunately I've lost a bit of data on this subject due to a server crash (mirrored drives don't help much with a controller failure - we won't go there).

Don't get me started...but I can one up that:
how about a controller that WAS configured for RAID1, then was "unset" as raid 1, but got confused and kind of wrote to both drives...that is, since sometimes it THOUGHT the drives were RAID1, but others it didn't, it would write bits and pieces of each file to...each drive...no mirroring, just total corruption!

My wife was VERY unhappy! So, no more RAID for me...I just backup everything and watch the SMART (at least this is the direction I'm moving...I don't have the backups totally working yet...but thanks to user damage, I'll be able to use my 3W Dockstar as a RAID5 (hopefully ZFS) device for all my USB drives.

--Dan
 
I have at least 10 OnQ ALC dimmers still in the box and have a Kill-A-Watt so i could set up a test as a comparison for hardwired based solutions. I just lack the time ATF..maybe in a week or two.

Also the power consumption of the transformer that generates the LV would need to be added which would be difficult since it's connected to the installed switches and i'm not going to unterminate all my installed switches.

I'll test with the LV connected and communicating but without measuring the transformer power initially and see what ballpark we're in.

For me I'm already committed to ALC so it's not going to change my mind. Just wondering if it's worth even doing the test since there's no many ALC users out there anymore. ;)
 
Saw your post on UD website. If the new switches are really only at .25 watts, that's incredible. That would be 1/10th of the previous versions. Now I am going to feel inadequate for having most of my switches being of the 2 watt variety.
 
Hi Lou,

I'm still trying to make myself believe this isn't measurement error on the part of the Kill A Watt. If I can find enough switches of the same "vintage" in my stock, I will try to parallel them as Work2Play did.

As far as replacing your old units goes - have a look at my follow up post on the UD website. My back of the napkin calculations indicated if would take me 33 years to pay off the cost of a new switch based on power savings alone.

The other factor involved here is product phase in. The unit that I'm working with is a SLD 2476D with a date code of 1024. I has some rather obvious component changes as compared to my earlier units. In the same shipment, I received a two SL relay 2476S (V5.6 DC 1026) a KPL relay 2486S (V5.3 DC 1022) and a two wire kit 2474D (Rev 4.3 DC 0888).

Of the above, the two wire kit units are significantly older manufacturing date, and appear to have the old component layout. In other words, SH is still clearing stock and they may not have updated all of the modules as of yet. I wouldn't jump to order low power devices assuming that everything has been converted to the newer design. You may be disappointed.
 
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