iTach relay for commercial door opener
- Thread starter Bartmandude
- Start date
Bartmandude
Member
Thanks for all the input, much obliged!
Bartmandude
Member
Hi az1324
Problem is my iTach is PoE
This is for a commercial door opener, which is hard wired, so I guess I'll get the Elk relay and I'll have to run an extension cord to power a 12V pwr supply.
Problem is my iTach is PoE
This is for a commercial door opener, which is hard wired, so I guess I'll get the Elk relay and I'll have to run an extension cord to power a 12V pwr supply.
BraveSirRobbin
Moderator
Curious, what 'wiring type' do you have? It should be specified on the inside of the garage door's electrical panel.
BraveSirRobbin
Moderator
Reason I asked about the control wiring is one type requires a 'constant pressure', the other 'momentary' controls it seems.
Also, from the manual, it states under "Additional Access Control Equipment":
Also, again after browsing through the manual, it seems that the R1, R2 and R3 terminals are there for hooking up a radio receiver meant for remote access.
I'm not so sure now the strategy of using a momentary contact between R1 and R2 is deploying the proper methodology for this commercial door, but could be wrong.
Just throwing this information out there!
Also, from the manual, it states under "Additional Access Control Equipment":
Also, again after browsing through the manual, it seems that the R1, R2 and R3 terminals are there for hooking up a radio receiver meant for remote access.
I'm not so sure now the strategy of using a momentary contact between R1 and R2 is deploying the proper methodology for this commercial door, but could be wrong.
Just throwing this information out there!
Ah well you could tap into the poe to power an external relay, matching the coil voltage to the poe supply.Bartmandude said:Hi az1324
Problem is my iTach is PoE
This is for a commercial door opener, which is hard wired, so I guess I'll get the Elk relay and I'll have to run an extension cord to power a 12V pwr supply.
Bartmandude
Member
I am sure R1 & R2 require momentary close when used with remote hdwr, can't lay my hands on that manual right now. It certainly operates that way when I use jumper wire.
If I am not mistaken, C2 or B2 is the wiring setup (not related to remote operation). Our hard wired control switch has green button for up, green button for down and red button for stop. The buttons stay down when pushed which is the default C2 wiring setup.
If I am not mistaken, C2 or B2 is the wiring setup (not related to remote operation). Our hard wired control switch has green button for up, green button for down and red button for stop. The buttons stay down when pushed which is the default C2 wiring setup.
So the RIB connects to 120V and it has a built in 24V transformer which is used for its own coil? Attach the coil to the relay in the iTach and hope that its supply does not trip the protection circuitry?
I would still choose to modify the iTach or use a very cheap relay and tap into the available power line.
I would still choose to modify the iTach or use a very cheap relay and tap into the available power line.
RIB01BDC.
DONE. No monkeying around, no modifications.
Power off the feed to the opener, run the relay to the control wiring, connect the Itach to the dry contact input.
Less than $20 (most are around $15 street price) and no additional modifications. You can choose to do as you wish, however I would consider reinventing the wheel foolish. You spent 5X more than that to get the Itach alone.
DONE. No monkeying around, no modifications.
Power off the feed to the opener, run the relay to the control wiring, connect the Itach to the dry contact input.
Less than $20 (most are around $15 street price) and no additional modifications. You can choose to do as you wish, however I would consider reinventing the wheel foolish. You spent 5X more than that to get the Itach alone.
Bartmandude
Member
Um... what is RIB?
RIB is a brand of relays and other automation devices, made by Functional Devices.
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