Odd behavior with UPB switch in *one* spot

:D Well, Cocoonut, I have read this advice before in other blogs.  This time I followed your suggestion exactly and was able to figure out that the phase coupler was not going to fix my problem.  Fortunately I have a detailed map of my 96 (give or take) breakers and was able to work backwards after turning them mostly off (light in utility room and computer stayed on).
 
I left the microwave for the last as my suspicions grew ... and sure enough it was the microwave (embarrassing since this has been pointed out many times).  I installed a ZNF10A-P (Simply-Automated) Noise Filter and was able to conclusively demonstrate that it solved the major problem.  I still have an issue with my workshop lights, but with microwave issue nailed I can at least communicate with my 3 workshop switches when the lights are off.  Not ideal but workable for now.  I have a ZNF10A-W and will have to figure out where to install it.
 
Many thanks to you and Desert-AIP for pushing me in the right direction.
 
Is it a Panasonic "Inverter" microwave?  They and UPB do not go together very well.
 
Glad you found the problem or at least one of them.
 
Yep, I have the Panasonic micro issue as well.  Also my Panny plasma TV caused issues.  Filters solved the problems.
 
DirecTV MOCA adapter did it to me... 
 
I need to do some testing because I found some filters which are affordable that I think will be perfect - but need to verify.  SnapAV sells them under their WattBox name and I forget who they OEM for but they MSRP at $19.95; in theory you can take entire power strips, simple appliances, etc - and very easily isolate them and really clean up your power lines (put one at every UPS!).
 
OP - if you're willing to do some conclusive testing, I'd be willing to send you one at my expense... this doesn't benefit me one bit other than curiosity (actually would cost me money) but I'd like to know if these WattBox filters do what I'm hoping just as I recommend things on this board - with some conclusive proof these could become quite handy.
 
On a positive note, most people don't have to do any filtering of noisy devices for UPB.  Unlike the old X-10 stuff where I had 8-10 filters around the house.
 
Work2Play said:
DirecTV MOCA adapter did it to me... 
 
I need to do some testing because I found some filters which are affordable that I think will be perfect - but need to verify.  SnapAV sells them under their WattBox name and I forget who they OEM for but they MSRP at $19.95; in theory you can take entire power strips, simple appliances, etc - and very easily isolate them and really clean up your power lines (put one at every UPS!).
 
OP - if you're willing to do some conclusive testing, I'd be willing to send you one at my expense... this doesn't benefit me one bit other than curiosity (actually would cost me money) but I'd like to know if these WattBox filters do what I'm hoping just as I recommend things on this board - with some conclusive proof these could become quite handy.
The only part of a MOCA adapter that could bother UPB is the power supply.  If it has a "Wall Wart" type power supply, wouldn't it be easier to replace the power supply with one that is more UPB friendly? 
 
Well I actually fixed the problem by accident... I had spent the afternoon swapping breakers, powering everything imaginable off, making all sorts of changes - and if anything I made things worse - so I put everything back the way it was when I started, tested one more time, and the problems were still there - but feeling totally discouraged I decided to at least accomplish something for the day and cleaned up some wiring in the closet - and moved a few adapters over to a new power strip in the rack... then as I was closing up shop to go on to something else, I ran one more test - and all of a sudden everything was golden.  I tracked back and that power strip I moved a few things over to turned out to be a noise filtering strip for a/v racks; From there I tracked back and found the MOCA adapter to be the apparent cause.
 
IIRC, the MOCA adapter doesn't use a barrel adapter - it uses an F-Type connector that I suppose I could recreate, but isn't as easy as a simple replacement; to me it seems far easier/better to just filter the whole darn power strip or UPS or whatever the case may be.
 
From everything I've read it sounds like the switch's memory may have been scrammbled during programming.  This can happen if someone sends a UPB command (activated/deactivated a scene link) while a switch is being programmed.  Or if another switch had scrambled memory (or different version of firmware) and it was used to "copy a configuration" over to another switch.
 
The quick check is to run log viewer (under Tools in UPStart), clear the log so you start with a clean log, then press the scene button on the probelmatic switch.  You should see in the log, an activate or deactivate of the programmed link.  If you see a 'null' command or something other than what it should be sending (i.e. Activate / Deactivate) then someting is not right.  You may even see it transmitting on a different network ID.
 
If all looks good, what happens if you move the switch to a different juntion box? Does it work properly or no?
 
If the case is that the log viewer is showing you weird transmit information, I'd try completely reprogramming the switch (do not copy configurations from other switches when programming it).  The steps are:
 
1a) Make sure you have the lastest and greatest UPStart version (i.e. V6.0 Build 13).
 
1b) Do a factory reset on the switch (5 tap -- LED flashes green, 10 tap -- LED falshes blue, 2 tap - LED stops flashing).
 
2) Then add it as a new switch (with a new unit ID number) -- Do not delete the old switch configuration from your UPStart file (yet).
 
3) Go into this newly added switch and put in the correct settings (transmit, receive, options, etc...) of the switch and 'program the device'.  Do not do this by using UPStart to copy the old switches configuration (or you may end up with the same results).
 
4) Once the switch has been programmed, give it a try. Press the buttons and see if it works properly.  If no, see what it is transmitting with the Log Viewer.
 
5) You can double check the links being used by Activating / Deactivating the link from the "Scene Builder" under the Link Menu. You should see the same results the switch sends other than the source (of the transmit).
 
Note, the switch will buzz 4 times if the transmit is set to 4- retries undet the Adavanced Tab in the edit device window for the switch in question.  This is ususally a good thing.
 
If you do get is fixed then you can delete the old switch from your UPStart file, and if desired change the unit ID of the reprogarmed switch to that of the original.
 
If that doesn't seem to do the trick, call Simply Automated.
 
Hope that helps,
 
Millard
 
Millard 
 
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