Punch down tool

With the introduction here of Verizon FIOS the installer used the existing rgxx rather than the catxx that I had run and terminated.  That said I helped/guided the installer as I didn't want him willy nilly drilling in to new exterior walls in.  I had already build a com closest (new) and ran every cable whatever it was to the closet.  That was me though as basically I said no work would be done unless I said it was OK.  I did the same with my updating of Comcast and had to deal with an installer telling me one thing and me saying do it this way (my way) or take a hike. Note that this stuff mostly came from having to manage commercial endeavors but not actually doing them; personally learning though from the trades. In the 1990's got in to converting twin ax cable to catxx baluns (IE in automotive industry and relating to IBM stuff at the time). I always got a push back and had a bigger stick and used it appropriately.
 
Mostly here it helped me with checking my POE use of catxx.  I originally ran rgXX + siamese + catxx for the old analog cameras.
 
That said I use catxx here for much more than networking.  1-wire sensors, russound controllers, UPB, irrigation, GPS, RFID, so for...
 
Mike-
 
814 has a spot for blades also. Only difference between the 814 and 914 is the spudger tools and the rubber covered handle.
 
I'd suggest you get a combo blade (66/110) or one of each (cut/loop). The hole starter tool also comes in handy though I've never taken the plunge to buy one. I would spring for the eversharp blades over the regular black oxide ones. Big difference.
 
I got this one in the mail yesterday from ebay. It has two tips and yes it holds the spare in the handle. The tips look to be in very nice shape and the impact works. I haven't had a chance to use it yet. It has the 110 and the 66 each with and without the cutoff on each end.
 
http://www.ebay.com/...=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
 
I worked with the Fluke punch down tool today and still had some wire pairs not make a connection with the socket. The tools was easy to work with and I thought that everything was great but when I was done punching the 4 pairs I had one pair come up open when I tested the cable.
 
I am using legrand keystone cat5e sockets from Home Depot with cat5e 24awg wire. Has anyone else had this problem?
 
Mike.
 
I've not used the Legrand ones; only the ones from Leviton. No issues.
 
The only time I've recalled reading issues is when people have tried to mix Cat5E cable with Cat6 connectors or vice versa. The conductors between the two are different so it's understandable that would create an issue.
 
drvnbysound said:
I've not used the Legrand ones; only the ones from Leviton. No issues.
 
The only time I've recalled reading issues is when people have tried to mix Cat5E cable with Cat6 connectors or vice versa. The conductors between the two are different so it's understandable that would create an issue.
 
I had the opposite experience. When I had trouble with the cat5e jack I put it aside and tried a cat6 jack and it went much better. I had a problem at first with the cat6 but hit the connections a second time with the tool and then all connections tested good. It doesn't give me a lot of faith in the connections.
 
Mike.
 
My first Keystone Jacks were the Legrand ones (13 years ago at Home Depot); but they were not Keystone and Legrand proprietary at the time and only worked with Legrand wall plates.  I went to bulk purchases on the Internet after that.
 
drvnbysound said:
I've not used the Legrand ones; only the ones from Leviton. No issues.
 
The only time I've recalled reading issues is when people have tried to mix Cat5E cable with Cat6 connectors or vice versa. The conductors between the two are different so it's understandable that would create an issue.
I said above that the jacks are from Home Depot but I actually got them at Lowes. The cat6 are recommended for cat5, cat5e and cat6 cable
 
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Legrand-Plastic-CAT6-Keystone-Insert/50110946
 
EDIT
 
the cat5e jacks that I bought cost a lot less and should work just as well with my cat5e cable
 
https://www.lowes.com/pd/On-Q-Legrand-5-Pack-Plastic-CAT5E-Wall-Jacks/1070763
 
I learned what my problem was with the punch down tool. When I used it as an impact tool it was occasionally cutting the wire. I found that I can use the tool to gently push the wire down but not pushing it down hard enough to trigger the impact and the metal tip works really well that way.
 
Mike.
 
mikefamig said:
I learned what my problem was with the punch down tool. When I used it as an impact tool it was occasionally cutting the wire. I found that I can use the tool to gently push the wire down but not pushing it down hard enough to trigger the impact and the metal tip works really well that way.
 
If you're going to do the punch and the trim at the same time then you're going to need the impact action.  That and have the blade pointed the right way.  It'll have one side that's a little longer and sharpened to snip the end of the wire.  Works quite well.  I've never had a punch tool cause a break unless I was doing something wrong.  Either had the cutting side wrong or had the wire coming into the connector under tension or at an odd angle that led to it getting crimped enough to break.
 
I didn't have the cutting edge wrong but it is very possible that I had the wire pulled too tight and at an angle to the crimp. I'll try leaving a little slack next time.
 
Mike.
 
When you leave slack you also want to ensure the keep the twists together all the way before the punch terminal.
 
video321 said:
When you leave slack you also want to ensure the keep the twists together all the way before the punch terminal.
 
I'm aware of the importance of the twists in the wire and that's why I was pulling the wires so tight. I was trying to minimize the straight ends and not stripping the jacket back far enough. I watched a video on how to leave the pair twisted and slip it over the post in the connector and I'll try that.
 
Mike.
 
mikefamig said:
Maybe the problem is that I have the tool set to low impact. I'll try it tomorrow on the high setting.
Should always have tool set to high.
 
Low is for something like using the screw starter tip.
 
Keep in mind, repunching the same terminals can cause issues.
 
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