Replacing existing outlet with an x10 sr227... Questions..

[BLH]

Yes you can do the small Night Light added load to suppress the module status On or Off sensing current. That keeps real small current LED devices from pulsing or glowing dimly.
 
I don't believe the SR227 has any Local Control Sensing in it. So there is no diode, jumper or resistor to remove.
 
If you disable the On Off Status circuit. It will not know if it is On or Off and sound like a machine gun trying to pulse the ratchet switch a few times before giving up.

 

[Jason B]

Yeah that is an issue with X10 switching of LED lighting.  You have to add a load there or switch to a DC Power supply.  

I read of a fix by cutting a diode that will stop flicker of CFL, would it fix the flicker for LED?

See reply near bottom:

http://www.x10community.com/marko/2006/06/disabling_the_local_control_fe.html


 

 

[Jason B]

Yes you can do the small Night Light added load to suppress the module status On or Off sensing current. That keeps real small current LED devices from pulsing or glowing dimly.
 
I don't believe the SR227 has any Local Control Sensing in it. So there is no diode, jumper or resistor to remove.
 
If you disable the On Off Status circuit. It will not know if it is On or Off and sound like a machine gun trying to pulse the ratchet switch a few times before giving up.

This is in an area that I can't put a night light in. In this case, there is no issue turning the leds on and off, it works every time. Just the led flicker when off. My issue last week was getting thigns to turn on/off, now this. lol. So, the instructions online, some say cutting that diode, (in my last link) will stop flicker in CFL, but other links say there is no way to fix flicker unless you add a night light.

 

[BLH]

The fix listed at the bottom of your last link. Will disable the Local Control Sensor circuit.
It stops CFLs from turning the outlet back on and will sometimes stop LEDs from glowing or their power supplies slowly charging up and pulsing On.
 
The small On Off sensing current will still be there. So some LEDs may still pulse.
Only a test with your exact LED load will determine if the diode alone will fix the pulsing.
 
I don't know if X10WTI before they went belly up and got bought out. Had revised the hardware in the outlet to use more easy to fine parts. If your module has some surface mounted parts. The fix in your link may no longer apply.

 

[Jason B]

Ok, here is another post where some say yes it should work and no, Near bottom of post again. http://forums.x10.com/index.php?topic=17143.0;wap2 - Let me show a picture. I'm not sure where I'm looking at, maybe you can tell me if it's surface and if I should try. Not sure what to clip, but I'm willing to try! Maybe you can help again. I find it funny that I can turn on/off with no issues, no load needed to do that, but I have the flicker. Date code I think means 2007.  

EDIT: also, if this doesn't work, I guess I could swap back in the factory wall outlet, plug a thin white extension cord into it, run inside the cabinet of the vanity, and just use an appliance module inside the vanity with a led night light out of site? See factory outlet pic, all you'd see is a cord this way coming out of outlet, and no transformer.

 

[Sparkman1]

Ok, here is another post where some say yes it should work and no, Near bottom of post again. http://forums.x10.com/index.php?topic=17143.0;wap2 - Let me show a picture. I'm not sure where I'm looking at, maybe you can tell me if it's surface and if I should try. Not sure what to clip. Maybe you can help again. I find it funny that I can turn on/off with no issues, no load needed to do that, but I have the flicker. Date code I think means 2007.  

EDIT: also, if this doesn't work, I guess I could swap back in the factory wall outlet, plug a thin white extension cord into it, run inside the cabinet of the vanity, and just use an appliance module inside the vanity with a led night light out of site? See factory outlet pic, all you'd see is a cord this way coming out of outlet, and no transformer.

 
Right next to the sink.  Nice.  Like DEL said and I did in your posts on the HS board, put a GFCI breaker in (or use the extension cord).  You may not use a hair dryer, but wife/gf, house guest, house sitter, etc. may kill themselves because of you wanting to automate some LED lights...

 

[Jason B]

Correct, if I ever moved out, I'd need to put gfi back in to meet code, But yea, play it safe with the extension cord, then I could keep all that junk out of site from that outlet and use an appliance module I think...

Still want to see if there is something to cut inside the sr227 to see if it happens to fix the flicker with the led load I have for fun now.

 

[Del91574]

Right next to the sink.  Nice.  Like DEL said and I did in your posts on the HS board, put a GFCI breaker in (or use the extension cord).  You may not use a hair dryer, but wife/gf, house guest, house sitter, etc. may kill themselves because of you wanting to automate some LED lights...

And don't forget, the downstream electrical is also GFCI protected by this outlet. Nice and dangerous all for the sake of putting in a silly little X10 outlet.
 
Tapping out.

 

[Jason B]

The fix listed at the bottom of your last link. Will disable the Local Control Sensor circuit.
It stops CFLs from turning the outlet back on and will sometimes stop LEDs from glowing or their power supplies slowly charging up and pulsing On.
 
The small On Off sensing current will still be there. So some LEDs may still pulse.
Only a test with your exact LED load will determine if the diode alone will fix the pulsing.
 
I don't know if X10WTI before they went belly up and got bought out. Had revised the hardware in the outlet to use more easy to fine parts. If your module has some surface mounted parts. The fix in your link may no longer apply.

BLH, here's an interesting test I just did. Remember that WS467 applicance module you helped me mod? I put that into the stock outlet as a test. Turns on/off, no led pulsing! How funny is that? 

 

[RAL]

Ok, here is another post where some say yes it should work and no, Near bottom of post again. http://forums.x10.com/index.php?topic=17143.0;wap2 - Let me show a picture. I'm not sure where I'm looking at, maybe you can tell me if it's surface and if I should try. Not sure what to clip, but I'm willing to try! Maybe you can help again. I find it funny that I can turn on/off with no issues, no load needed to do that, but I have the flicker. Date code I think means 2007.  

EDIT: also, if this doesn't work, I guess I could swap back in the factory wall outlet, plug a thin white extension cord into it, run inside the cabinet of the vanity, and just use an appliance module inside the vanity with a led night light out of site? See factory outlet pic, all you'd see is a cord this way coming out of outlet, and no transformer.

 
From the picture you posted, it appears that you have an older style SR227 without surface mount components.  So cutting the lead on the diode and the jumper should make it work.
 
Still, I wouldn't use this in your bathroom without installing a GFCI breaker.

 

[Jason B]

From the picture you posted, it appears that you have an older style SR227 without surface mount components.  So cutting the lead on the diode and the jumper should make it work.
 
Still, I wouldn't use this in your bathroom without installing a GFCI breaker.

Thanks, I'm just not sure what I should be cutting and where. I figured it out on the WS467, but this one is hard to tell.

 

[RAL]

Thanks, I'm just not sure what I should be cutting and where. I figured it out on the WS467, but this one is hard to tell.

 
I don't have an SR227 handy to look at, so I can't point you to the specific location of the diode and jumper.
 
From reading Marko's forum, there should be only 2 jumpers on the circuit board.  The one you want may be near the silver can in your photo. (but it might elsewhere if this is a newer module). Find the jumper and use an ohmmeter to check to see if it is connected to pin 7 of the IC.
 
The diode that you want to cut is connected to the 2.2k resistor and 0.01 uF capacitor.  It is probably not either of the two diodes near the bottom edge of the circuit board in your photo, by the blue disc.  These look like 1N4148 diodes.  The 1N4004 diode that you want to cut should have a larger black body, with a silver band on one end.
 

 
Again, use an ohmmeter to check the connection from the diode and the capacitor and resistor to ensure that you are cutting the proper diode.