Top 10 Features I Would Like To See In A Lighting Protocol

upstatemike

Senior Member
There have been a lot of posts lately about problems with the various new lighting protocols folks are using to replace their old X-10 stuff and it strikes me that several years after the introduction of these new products that there is not only no clear winner but also no option that could even be recommended as a “good” choice right now. Rather than review the faults of each protocol I thought it might be a good New Years exercise to once again invite folks to list the top 10 features they wish they could have in their switches and modules. This does not have to be practical (the folks who design new products are not likely to hang out here to read it anyway) but it might be interesting to see how close to the collective “ideal” each of the existing protocols actually comes as well as to see what other folks consider important.

Here is my list if Top 10 features I would like to see in a lighting platform sorted from most important ( #1) to least important (# 10). If we get enough responses I might use the information to help reorganize the lighting section of the HA Comparison Spreadsheet to better focus on the comparison points that most folks feel are critical. My personal wish list would be:

1. Field upgradable firmware. I feel any consumer item based on firmware should be field upgradeable and that any product that does not offer the option is a rip-off. The devices have to be programmed somehow initially so the electronics are likely already in place. Manufacturers simply need to provide a mini-USB port under the paddle so that firmware bugs and feature upgrades can be applied without swapping the entire switch.

2. A single full-spectrum LED. I would like to see the 2-color LEDs used by some manufacturers combined with the “light bar” indicators used by others in a single full-spectrum color LED. This LED might be Blue (cold) when the switch is off. It could then turn Red when the switch is on dime and then ramp up through Orange and Yellow to Bright White when full on. It could also be used programmable to display other colors for other conditions such as different shades of Violet or Green to indicate a particular scene is currently active. Or maybe flashing a particular color to warn you that the garage door is still open or that the alarm system was activated while you were away. I think a single LED with a full color spectrum and a robust protocol to control it could do everything a light bar indicator does with a much cleaner look.

3. Strong Broadcast plus Repeater technology. Simpler is better and the whole idea of maintaining routing tables to communicate between switches just seems dumb. Especially if you don’t have a lot of devices in your system and just want to have a switch in the house to control a light out in the barn. I would like to see strong signals like in UPB plus the “all devices are repeaters” idea of Insteon except have all devices repeat both powerline AND RF signals. I guess you would call it the “every device is an Accesspoint” idea in Insteon terms except there is no indication that it will ever be implemented by Smarthome… but maybe someone else will pick up on the idea.

4. Triac Plus Relay in every device. I like the idea of having a single switch or module that can work in both dimming situations or to switch inductive loads but the triac only implementations have had some issues. You can have trouble with some inductive loads with these devices and I think this could be easily resolved if a relay was employed in addition to the triac. You could dim down to one percent but once you move to 0 percent, the relay drops out and isolates the load completely. This would solve most of the issues of having one standard switch type while retaining all of the benefits. (Triacs and Relays are not expensive enough to raise a valid cost issue for this approach).

5. A Much Faster Protocol. New protocols always make the argument that you don’t need much speed to control a light switch so low speed messages are fine. The problem is that controlling a switch is only the simplest case of what you would expect the protocol to do. The real question is how fast can a controller use the protocol to interrogate all 250 of your devices after power is restored from an outage to confirm the true state of your system? How quickly can the protocol interrogate every device in a large scene and resend individual commands as required? Fast enough to get it done before the next scene is activate 1 second later? I really think the use case arguments used to justify slow protocols are unrealistic in real world applications.

6. Much Smaller Devices. It is amazing how much empty space there is inside a home automation switch. That space could be put to much better use inside the junction box; especially in retrofit situations. Lets dump the bulky plastic switch backs for full metal “heat sink” cases and make the darned things much, much, thinner.

7. Full Remote Programming. Once I install a switch I don’t ever want to visit it again unless it locks up or has some other catastrophic failure. I want my switches to be completely configurable from my PC. I do not want to visit the switch to get it into programming mode. I do not want to have to visit the switch to perform a factory reset on it. I want to do it all from my PC.

8. Lower Cost. The current price models that ensure profits for several layers of distributors, dealers, and installers, is totally killing the chances these new technologies from becoming the “next X-10”. We are in a recession. The do it yourself market is going to rule while money stays tight. I would like to see some reality put into the business models for these products and have them stay below the $30 threshold for switches and below $20 for plug-in modules.

9. More Devices. For all the talk about replacing X-10 they still rule when it comes to variety of modules even years after the new technologies became available. Still waiting for the UPB screw-in module or the Insteon “Stick-A-Switch”. I hope the next big player to come along is a little quicker at releasing new devices!

10. True Rocker Switches. I just have to comment on the crazy design decision by some manufacturers to go back to X-10 style press-on/press-off paddles. My system is becoming more and more dependent on being able to trigger things based on manual operation of switches. I actually think it is now more important to know when a switch is manually operated than it is to be able to control the switch remotely. My ideal switch would be true rocker all the way with rock solid communication back to the controller whenever someone presses the on or off side of the paddle.
 
Great post, I agree with a lot of this stuff. It would be great if manufacturers would reply here as well, mentioning why this can or can't be done.
 
My personal wish list would be:

1. Smaller Devices
2. Lower Cost
3. Strong Broadcast plus Repeater technology.
4. More Devices.
5. Field upgradable firmware.
6. Configurable paddles (like the Simply Automated Ones)
7. neutral not required for retrofit
8. multiple configurable set points/modes. tap, dbl tap, press and hold, tap wait tap ect...
9. robust protocol with error detection
10. selectable communications for every device powerline, wireless or both


as you can see I think Mike had some good ideas so they carried forward, on my list in a different order...
 
8. Lower Cost. The current price models that ensure profits for several layers of distributors, dealers, and installers, is totally killing the chances these new technologies from becoming the “next X-10”. We are in a recession. The do it yourself market is going to rule while money stays tight. I would like to see some reality put into the business models for these products and have them stay below the $30 threshold for switches and below $20 for plug-in modules.
While I agree with the vast majority of your post, this one raises a red flag. Reality is proving exactly the opposite these days. The low and middle markets (for manufacturers, vendors and dealers) has virtually dried up over recent months. The high end jobs have slowed (a bit) but the wealthy continue to spend. The DIY market, for good or ill, is not most manufacturer's ideal market. The numbers are low and the support cost is very high. Sorry but, it's true.
 
8. Lower Cost. The current price models that ensure profits for several layers of distributors, dealers, and installers, is totally killing the chances these new technologies from becoming the “next X-10”. We are in a recession. The do it yourself market is going to rule while money stays tight. I would like to see some reality put into the business models for these products and have them stay below the $30 threshold for switches and below $20 for plug-in modules.
While I agree with the vast majority of your post, this one raises a red flag. Reality is proving exactly the opposite these days. The low and middle markets (for manufacturers, vendors and dealers) has virtually dried up over recent months. The high end jobs have slowed (a bit) but the wealthy continue to spend. The DIY market, for good or ill, is not most manufacturer's ideal market. The numbers are low and the support cost is very high. Sorry but, it's true.

AnthonyZ
Holding on to this old model of layers of added costs to the end user will only lead to lower volume sales in general. I am a low voltage contractor and my markup for materials is generally 20%. I have no problem if the customer wants to provide the materials as long as they understand that I don't handle any warranties or guarantee product satisfaction. I don't make my money on materials instead I sell my services. Labor cost should reflect the true value of the services provided not subsidized by overpriced materials.
Manufacturers can simply offer limited support via the web and refer DIY'ers to qualified installers. This way the customer who does not need or can not afford professional help gets what they pay for and no more or less. The more affluent consumers will pay for services if they see value in it.
 
1. Field upgradable firmware.
Agree and it can be done though it requires very competent programmers and there will be a tech support requirement but should be better than shipping back and forth. Also depending on the implementation could conflict with 8.
2. I would like to see the 2-color LEDs used by some manufacturers combined with the “light bar” indicators used by others in a single full-spectrum color LED.
I can see it now... switches choreographed to Dark Side. The only really useful function an led or other illumination serves is to find the switch in the dark. User-definable color is ok with me, but no light shows please. Ok, it might be nice to get some visual feedback through colors (alarm/trouble = red, etc...).
3. Strong Broadcast plus Repeater technology. Simpler is better and the whole idea of maintaining routing tables to communicate between switches just seems dumb. Especially if you don’t have a lot of devices in your system and just want to have a switch in the house to control a light out in the barn. I would like to see strong signals like in UPB plus the “all devices are repeaters” idea of Insteon except have all devices repeat both powerline AND RF signals. I guess you would call it the “every device is an Accesspoint” idea in Insteon terms except there is no indication that it will ever be implemented by Smarthome… but maybe someone else will pick up on the idea.

This is a complicated problem. For one thing RF switches are patented so that is a legal/financial barrier for your double mesh. And a network that is aware of its own topology is really the only effective way to ensure full message coverage among network nodes. Stronger signals sounds good, though not if you want to keep the power consumption of the devices down.
4. Triac Plus Relay in every device.
Sounds good but conflicts with 6 & 8. Every penny counts.
5. A Much Faster Protocol.
Agree and certainly possible over powerline with all the homeplug stuff etc. as examples. But also probably conflicts with 8.
6. Much Smaller Devices.
Would be nice to see some shallower switches. Heat is the primary obstacle.
7. Full Remote Programming.
Agree. But everything needs a failsafe manual override. This actually is my number one wish that switches were smarter... smart enough to host their own macros and intelligently respond to other network events. Conflict with 8 (primarily sw costs).
8. Lower Cost.
Amen. Looking at Insteon especially it is essentially an x-10 switch with more memory. So there is no reason that it should cost much more. Actually when it first came out it didn't.
9. More Devices.
I somewhat agree with you and there are a few missing pieces but I would rather say more interaction among devices... more bridges.
10. True Rocker Switches.
This just means separate buttons for off and on right? If so, absolutely. Put some more buttons on there please. I welcome more keypads and multi-button interfaces... nice looking ones.
 
"neXt-10" ... just remember who coined the phrase first! ;)

#6 hit home for me. The junction boxes in my house are mounted with two large nails. The nails are driven right through each box. The net effect is to reduce the box's depth by 20%. They're just barely deep enough for PLC modules provided you stuff the wires, and wire nuts, in the cavity beyond the two nails. Ugh.
 
2. I would like to see the 2-color LEDs used by some manufacturers combined with the “light bar” indicators used by others in a single full-spectrum color LED.
I can see it now... switches choreographed to Dark Side. The only really useful function an led or other illumination serves is to find the switch in the dark. User-definable color is ok with me, but no light shows please. Ok, it might be nice to get some visual feedback through colors (alarm/trouble = red, etc...).
It is also important to see the status of lights that are not directly visible from the switch location such as an inside switch controlling outside or garage lights. A fist foor switch controlling attic or basement lights, etc.

4. Triac Plus Relay in every device.
Sounds good but conflicts with 6 & 8. Every penny counts.

Disagree. The cost of maintaining multiple products, multiple manufacuring lines, multiple catalog items in distribution, support resources for multiple products, etc. all outweigh the penny's spent to add another component that allows a single product to work both with dimmable loads and those that require tue relay isolation when off.
 
with regards to the triac plus relay in every device... This is pretty hard to do for a number of reasons. If you are wanting only one output then the relay has to bypass the triac and you are still going to have leakage through the triac when the relay is off. If you want the relay on any time the value is greater than 0, how are you going to use the dimming output triac? If you have an internal jumper to choose between the triac and the relay than the customer must take it apart to change it? Cost would still be a factor in that the higher percentage wouldn't want a relay and it still costs money in components, space and circuit board size. My choice would always be a separate device.
oh, and my vote is to not use a true rocker switch. I like multiple pushbutton switches on one light switch.
 
with regards to the triac plus relay in every device... This is pretty hard to do for a number of reasons. If you are wanting only one output then the relay has to bypass the triac and you are still going to have leakage through the triac when the relay is off. If you want the relay on any time the value is greater than 0, how are you going to use the dimming output triac? If you have an internal jumper to choose between the triac and the relay than the customer must take it apart to change it? Cost would still be a factor in that the higher percentage wouldn't want a relay and it still costs money in components, space and circuit board size. My choice would always be a separate device.
oh, and my vote is to not use a true rocker switch. I like multiple pushbutton switches on one light switch.

No jumpers needed. If the relay is in series with the triac then the triac controls the load when the switch is in any state except full off. For inductive loads the triac is programmed to snap on as in UPB switches. The advantage is that at full off the relay completely isolates the load from the switch so nothing can leak through the triac.

Multi-button keypads that also control a local load are fine but for individual switches having a true rocker on/off arrangement is critical for triggering additional activities from local control. Otherwise you get into situations where only some lights in a group are on and you have hit a push-on/push-off switch twice; once to turn the whole group on then again to turn them all off. Very 20th century!
 
For #2 (LED switches), i'd like that to be user-configurable with "completely disabled" being one of the options. I personally do *not* want any LEDs on if the switch is off, it'd bug me too much while going to sleep. I actually put electrical tape over the zWave LEDs so I don't have to see them. I would have poked them out with an awl if I could have figured out how to do that safely and in an attractive fashion.
 
No jumpers needed. If the relay is in series with the triac then the triac controls the load when the switch is in any state except full off. For inductive loads the triac is programmed to snap on as in UPB switches. The advantage is that at full off the relay completely isolates the load from the switch so nothing can leak through the triac.

I assumed that the issues with an inductive load being controlled with a triac would still be present if the triac was in series with a relay. If the only reason to have the relay is to stop leakage than I'm not sure it is worth it. There are solid state, inductive capable devices that could be programmed as dimming or on/off only. For my own custom lighting system designs I have used these devices for motors and non dimming flourescent lights without any trouble. The only requirement is that the configuration not be changed to dimming!
 
No jumpers needed. If the relay is in series with the triac then the triac controls the load when the switch is in any state except full off. For inductive loads the triac is programmed to snap on as in UPB switches. The advantage is that at full off the relay completely isolates the load from the switch so nothing can leak through the triac.

I assumed that the issues with an inductive load being controlled with a triac would still be present if the triac was in series with a relay. If the only reason to have the relay is to stop leakage than I'm not sure it is worth it. There are solid state, inductive capable devices that could be programmed as dimming or on/off only. For my own custom lighting system designs I have used these devices for motors and non dimming flourescent lights without any trouble. The only requirement is that the configuration not be changed to dimming!

Some loads just don't play well with triacs and require a relay to keep from self triggering. I believe this is why HAI and eventually others started making relay based UPB switches.
 
6. Much Smaller Devices. It is amazing how much empty space there is inside a home automation switch. That space could be put to much better use inside the junction box; especially in retrofit situations. Lets dump the bulky plastic switch backs for full metal “heat sink” cases and make the darned things much, much, thinner.

I will add that they should get rid of the pigtails. In an already crowded box in which you are going to add a larger device, why do you need to add 3 more wires and wire nuts? I would almost guarantee that most j-boxes in which DIYers add HA devices exceed the code spec on how much wire is in them. I know this might conflict with #8, but it would make installtion easier and could also provide a safer install.
 
6. Much Smaller Devices. It is amazing how much empty space there is inside a home automation switch. That space could be put to much better use inside the junction box; especially in retrofit situations. Lets dump the bulky plastic switch backs for full metal “heat sink” cases and make the darned things much, much, thinner.

I will add that they should get rid of the pigtails. In an already crowded box in which you are going to add a larger device, why do you need to add 3 more wires and wire nuts? I would almost guarantee that most j-boxes in which DIYers add HA devices exceed the code spec on how much wire is in them. I know this might conflict with #8, but it would make installtion easier and could also provide a safer install.
1. How about confirmation of action in the protocol.
2. Status update when modified via a link command.

Getting sick of UPB deviecs that aren't in the mode they say they are. Also second the no neutral. A nightmare rewiring old three and four way switches that had no neutral at one end.
 
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