Window Blind Control
- Thread starter Treetop
- Start date
BraveSirRobbin
Moderator
Micah:
I'm not as familar with this as you, but I think you could accomplish this with just two double pole, single throw relays. See what you think of the schematic below. I just showed the contacts of the relays and not the coils.
Of course you could maybe do something with the coils and polarity and possibly simplify the diode arrangement as well (since only two coils will be used now).
I'm sure Guy Lavoie or smee could chime in here as well.
I'm not as familar with this as you, but I think you could accomplish this with just two double pole, single throw relays. See what you think of the schematic below. I just showed the contacts of the relays and not the coils.
Of course you could maybe do something with the coils and polarity and possibly simplify the diode arrangement as well (since only two coils will be used now).
I'm sure Guy Lavoie or smee could chime in here as well.
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Guy Lavoie
Active Member
Micah's circuit would work, but I can't think of any controlling system that would send out a +6,0,-6 v control signal. Something would probably have to be custom designed that way.
BSR's circuit is probably what I would build if the relays were all controlled by a microcontroller or other device where all outputs can be activated (turned on and off) simultaneously. The risk with that circuit is that if both relays are turned on together, even for a very short time, the power supply gets shorted out. This could happen with something like a adicon SECU16. I would not use it with higher voltages or current.
The relay circuit I usually use for this type of thing is like this. It uses a SPST relay and a DPDT relay. Shorts are impossible because the normally closed (n.c.) contacts on K2 have to open before the normally open contacts can close. Thus the coil on K1 is controlled by an "on/off" signal and K2 by a "direction" signal. I've built various devices this way, including a projection screen in a church using a 120 Vac reversible motor.
BSR's circuit is probably what I would build if the relays were all controlled by a microcontroller or other device where all outputs can be activated (turned on and off) simultaneously. The risk with that circuit is that if both relays are turned on together, even for a very short time, the power supply gets shorted out. This could happen with something like a adicon SECU16. I would not use it with higher voltages or current.
The relay circuit I usually use for this type of thing is like this. It uses a SPST relay and a DPDT relay. Shorts are impossible because the normally closed (n.c.) contacts on K2 have to open before the normally open contacts can close. Thus the coil on K1 is controlled by an "on/off" signal and K2 by a "direction" signal. I've built various devices this way, including a projection screen in a church using a 120 Vac reversible motor.
Attachments
Guy's circuit is also what I would normally recommend (I was thinking about this at lunch). Unfortunately, it won't work with Micah's situation.
Micah is trying to control the relays using the outputs from the blinds controller. The 6v signal to the relays is the 6v that goes to the motor in an unmodified blind controller (the controller is swapping the connections to gnd and +6V to control motor direction). He's trying to use the same controller and just patch something in place of the original motore.
I guess I'd really recommend eliminating the blinds controller altogether and building something from scratch (with a different control mechanism). Or, come up with an interface between the original motor outputs and Guy's relays.
Micah is trying to control the relays using the outputs from the blinds controller. The 6v signal to the relays is the 6v that goes to the motor in an unmodified blind controller (the controller is swapping the connections to gnd and +6V to control motor direction). He's trying to use the same controller and just patch something in place of the original motore.
I guess I'd really recommend eliminating the blinds controller altogether and building something from scratch (with a different control mechanism). Or, come up with an interface between the original motor outputs and Guy's relays.
Hey guys, thanks for your input.
The biggest problem is that the motor needs to have a neutral position where it's not turning. If I could get away with having it run in one direction and just occasionally switch it would be much simpler to do.
The problem with doing this from scratch is financial. I can buy a this remote controlled drape controller that runs for $90.00.
Add on top of that having to teach myself what it takes to interpret IR commands and it'd be easier to just buy the pre-built drapes controller. But I don't wanna buy the pre-built drapes controller so I'm gonna make my life a little more difficult (and probably frustrating) and embark on a little project.
The biggest problem is that the motor needs to have a neutral position where it's not turning. If I could get away with having it run in one direction and just occasionally switch it would be much simpler to do.
The problem with doing this from scratch is financial. I can buy a this remote controlled drape controller that runs for $90.00.
Add on top of that having to teach myself what it takes to interpret IR commands and it'd be easier to just buy the pre-built drapes controller. But I don't wanna buy the pre-built drapes controller so I'm gonna make my life a little more difficult (and probably frustrating) and embark on a little project.
jrfuda
Active Member
Gadget boy, picture?GadgetBoy said:I have found that putting a small, 3/4 inch piece of wood between the blind's valence and the housing keeps the valence from hitting the crank from the weight of the unit.
I am hoping that if you purchased these you will understand what I am saying
TonyNo
Active Member
I was just in my local Lowes today and saw these for the first time (they had none back in October). They weren't as cheap as the lowest price mentioned here, but, they were not bad: $11.98 for the master and $8.98 for the add-on. I grabbed one master pack and two add-on's, went home, and installed them on a set of three blinds in my living room. I'll definitely be going back for some more.
One more reason to finally get an IR setup for my HA system!
One more reason to finally get an IR setup for my HA system!
