Z-Wave Water Valve

HAdiy

Member
Looking for suggestions for a Z-Wave water valve. Preferably, I'd like to install a Z-Wave device to control my existing 1" ball valve versus having to redo the plumbing.

I was planning on having the main water valve shut off every time the alarm is armed away but I'm hear that may cause damage to my water heaters. Is there a way to turn off the water heaters via Z-Wave everytime the main water valve is shit off? I'm currently using a 2 gig system for my alarm and home automation needs (via alarm.com)

I've heard some horror stories the last several years with homes being damaged extensively due to water leaks so I thought it be best to take the precaution.

Also open to any other ideas. Thanks.
 
I have the Fortrezz 1" valve.  It's well made but pricey.  To control your existing valve, I believe the EcoNet Controls one is the only option.  
What kind of water heater do you have?  Electric, gas, etc.?
 
Cheers
Al
 
Thanks Al! I have gas heaters.

Does your main water valve turn off everytime you leave or only when a leak is detected. If the latter, what type of sensors do you have? Are they Z-Wave?
 
Typically only when a leak is detected, although I have manually turned it off as well.  I have both Everspring and Fortrezz sensors.  They are directly associated with the valve so a water leak that's detected by them, will shut the valve.  My controller also gets notified which lets me know.    The only solution I know of that can control a gas water heater is this one: http://www.gaswaterheatertimer.com/.   It will allow you to change between regular and vacation modes.  As long as the water tank is holding water, I don't believe shutting the water off will hurt it.   Some of the newer gas water heaters do have WiFi capabilities, so they may be able to be turned off remotely.
 
Cheers
Al
 
Truthfully, I'd suggest getting a normal controllable valve and then add the Zwave portion separately, otherwise you're looking at 120VAC in proximity of the valve location.
 
You can find cheaper, but a valve that has a separate and non-proprietary control method would better serve you over time.
 
Shutting down the water if there's no demand, I don't see an issue with. If you were heating the hot water for an extended period of time (weeks, months) that could be a concern, but if you're intending on addressing a leak in a timely manner......
 
DELInstallations said:
Truthfully, I'd suggest getting a normal controllable valve and then add the Zwave portion separately, otherwise you're looking at 120VAC in proximity of the valve location.
 
You can find cheaper, but a valve that has a separate and non-proprietary control method would better serve you over time.
As an FYI, the Fortrezz valve operates on low voltage DC and the power adapter cord is about 20' long, so you don't need 120 AC very close.  
 
Cheers
Al
 
HAdiy said:
I found this one for a very reasonable price. Thoughts?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01AKCPEHG/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1462283999&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=z-wave+water+valve&dpPl=1&dpID=41yKM2u5FCL&ref=plSrch

Also, still looking for recommendations for Z-Wave water sensors. Need ~15.
 
Reviews look reasonable.  How easy does your 1" valve move?  If it's not easy to move by hand, then these types of adapters may struggle as well.  As I mentioned in an earlier post I use both Everspring and Fortrezz water sensors.  Both work fine from a water detection perspective and both are horrible from a battery level notification perspective.   The Everspring's are a better built unit, but has a remote sensor.  The Fortrezz has the water sensing contact on the bottom of the unit.  Here's the links to them:
 
http://www.everspring.com/ST812.aspx
 
http://www.fortrezz.com/index.php/products/water-sensors/itemlist/category/15-water-freeze-sensor-buzzer
 
Cheers
Al
 
We carried the v1 of the Econet controller but had to discontinue that due to manufacturing issues. The biggest plus for that is no plumbing required. On the downside, it struggles with valves that are harder to turn and doesn't always fully close or fully open the valve.  A v2 controller appears to be close to release. We'll see how that fares..
 
Otherwise... We're working on our own Z-Wave water valve solution too. Should have more to talk about in a few weeks.
 
Agree with the V1 being weak. RMA the fist one that failed and replacement failed the first day in service. Back to no water control.


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redo the plumbing
 
It isn't really redoing the plumbing to add an inline valve.
 
I've heard some horror stories the last several years with homes being damaged extensively due to water leaks so I thought it be best to take the precaution.
 
Think of the endeavour as insurance and do an ROI if then scenario as to how much it would cost you to fix the damage caused by a leak.
 
Curious if you are using the valve on plastic PVC or copper water lines.
 
Only reason I am mentioning this is that here I am at all copper lines and sweating a pipe is really not a big issue. 
 
Plastic is easier. 
 
That said a good commercial low voltage electronic valve installed in line will last for a long time.  
 
I am guessing too that you have some sort of resilience to your low voltage power and ZWave network.
 
Something like this would work better for you.  You can still utilize Z-Wave with it.  Here I went with a wired set up to the alarm.
 
elkvalve.jpg
 
elk-2.jpg
 
A couple of years ago a friend with a vacation home in Estes lost his entire lower level of his home due to water damage and a power failure.  The cost to fix the damage was around ~50k or so fixing it remotely took about 4 months and the lower floor of 4 floors in the house was uninhabitable.
 
Agree Pete.
 
With enough time and ~1 minute of google you can find who essentially OEM's ELK's valve and get one for slightly less with a few nice options.
 
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