Recent content by GeorgieC

Some of the boards I'm seeing seem to have 2 eeproms with different version numbers on them, what's the deal with that? Sorry I'm a dope and thanks for answering all my questions!

I don't know the answers to your questions but you might look up a cellular communicator that works with AT&T and see what systems and monitoring companies it would be compatible with? I know Honeywell makes one, I don't know what else is available out there.

Don, Is there a certain year you wouldn't get one of these boards before? Do you run into the same issue I had with the LT of the eeprom needing updating?

So 16 zones total, unless you want to do some wireless, which I don't. Do you know if the first 4 zones each have a separate jumper or must all 4 be configured fire/smoke? Can I use zone 1 for smokes and zones 2-4 as auxiliary? How many zones would I have available for sensors like door, motion...

Ah, now I see what you are saying. It all makes sense. Thanks, Don.

If I opt to connect this second power supply to my board, where exactly do I connect the leads from the Elk P624 to the board? Do I connect them to the main board or to the expansion board and what inputs do they go in?

Discount Home Automation has kits with the Elk circuit board, power supply and battery for around $100. I'm not sure which is the one I would need. I am thinking about, if I have to replace my panel anyway, if I moved up to a better model, would it have enough power without having to add this...

Okay, so I also need to buy a 16.5V 40VA transformer, right? and then what do I connect this to on the panel? That live heat sink makes me nervous, why don't they cover that with some kind of guard?

Do I need a 2nd battery for this to connect to?

Okay, Don, I think I am finally beginning to get how it works. Just to make sure, when you add up the current for devices, you use the normal operating current, not the max draw? I just want to thank you, Don and Pete, for all the info. You have been so much help. It has been a lot to take in...

Thanks, Don. Looks like that's the first problem I need to solve.

Measuring voltage at the C-BAT tip & ring with the multimeter, it is normally about 48. When an alarm is set and the line picks up, voltage goes down to a little over 5 when you hear dial tone. When the line hangs up, voltage goes back up to around 48.

I definitely want to keep tinkering. If I'm going to find a new board, would I have issues switching to an LTe? Would my keypad work with it? My expansion board wouldn't I guess, but it has more inputs and a little more power. Anything beyond that would be overkill for my needs.

Oh, yes, Don, I do have that surge suppressor. I don't have a landline anymore, though.

You have not seen the dialer go bad, Pete? What would you do if you were having this issue? I've found several posts where people had the "communicator had trouble" issue but they always seem to end up sending it in for repair and we no longer have that option. It's tough to find a new board...