Recent content by misha680

Hi, I ran into a forum post recently that mentioned using a small Z-shaped piece of aluminum (or was it tin?) foil as a radiation shield for an outdoor ds18s20. My outdoor ds18s20 is not as much in the shade as I thought (it isn't for ~2-3 hrs a day and I can see it really heats up) and...

Hi, I've already heat shrunk my outdoor temp sensor quite a while back but would like to "waterproof" it to protect from the occasional torrential rains we get here in Houston. I have googled and found that epoxy or silicone seems to be the way to go. Which way is best, what are the...

So I finally got the relay card (Midon design 1WIO) and everything else set up. Just as a reminder I'm running the HVAC wires from the thermostat (instead of one wire in each screw in the thermostat coming from my AC system I have it also go to my relay card). The red wire (24VAC) goes directly...

Btw I've actually gone with the 1WIO after all and it is working great for me! Also Midon Design support is awesome (thanks Mitch!). I am pretty new to all this and I think without Mitch's numerous replies to my constant barrage of email questions both before and after I ordered this step would...

Btw, just to follow up I got my 1WIO from Midon Design hooked it up and it is working great. Misha

Just wanted to comment for future thread readers that unfortunately all USB->Parallel adaptors these days are based on the Prolific PL-2305 chipset which doesn't allow port pins control and won't work with the kit 74 parallel kits. If you find an old SYBA with the Moschip MSC7715 chipset or an...

Hi all, I have recently set up a simple X10 system at home and am quite happy with it at the moment. Unfortunately one component I am still not happy with, and that is an LM465 lamp module that I purchased for the reading light that is near my bed. The idea was that it would automatically turn...

Thanks a lot for the reply. I've actually since decided to go with a parallel port solution and a USB->parallel cable for cost reasons (for the 1WIO unfortunately I'd also need to purchase a power injector with my current USB->1Wire solution), using a specific chipset brand found in the SYBA...

It sounds like the 1-Wire is certainly the best solution for you. As for me, I realized that since my thermostat and router are in the same room I can in fact run a cable from one to the other. And since I could either run CAT-5 through the thermostat up to the actual AC or just run an HVAC...

Btw, it looks like the cheapest option for SPDT would be a USB->Parallel port and a "Kit 74" Parallel board from Kits 'R Us. Specifically: * USB->Parallel $11.07 http://www.shopstormcomputer.com/ssproduct...?pf_id=10725632 * 8 SPDT Parallel relay board $39.95...

Hi well of course I need to actually have a board or something (like the Midon Design, unfortunately apparently startup state is "indeterminate" on this board, or the relay board from Hobby-Boards. The router is an ASUS WL-500g Premium, highly recommended except the default broadcom wifi chipset...

Hi just wondering what 4PDT relay did you use exactly? Could you provide a link? Also one for the DPDT relay? Thanks The Midon Design board starting in the on state does not sound good to me... I'd much prefer having startup in the "off" state. Thanks Misha p.s. alternately if the Hobby...

Thanks for your suggestions. I actually decided after your concerns and my personal concerns about running a power cord anywhere near the shower to do something a little different - I am actually going to run 5-wire thermostat cable out my thermostat (which comes out in the living room and the...

Ok well I do appreciate your advice and I think it is in fact quite valid. So I guess my problem with any type of setback control, which I would perhaps be willing to accept, is that since I have a single thermostat for AC and heat I wouldn't really be able to switch between the two with the...

Well other people have actually directly hooked up a furnace to an X10 UM506 module, see, e.g.: http://www.diy-ha.com/hookingupfurnace.php What exactly do you mean by unreliable? If you mean the signals do not always actually get sent, which is something I have already though of, my plan is...